FeatureThe Maestro’s Legacy: An Introduction To Gerald Charles And Their Watchmaking Brilliance
Established in 2000 by the genius watchmaker Gérald Charles Genta, it comes as no surprise that timepieces from the independent brand Gerald Charles symbolise the aspirational and artistic singularity of his vision, which marry versatility with high performance. Here’s what makes them truly outstanding
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There are icons in the timekeeping world and then there are legends associated with creating those timepieces, which go on to shatter records; sealing a place for themselves in the annals of history. An invention is the brainchild of the creative genius, and if one observes closely, there are several milestones in the horological universe, which are the gift of a certain individual—one who completely revolutionised the watchmaking game, especially in the 1960s and 70s. We are talking about watchmaker par excellence and artist Gérald Charles Genta, whose work has been referred to as ‘the Fabergé of watches’ by Christie’s auction house, New York. And one completely understands the gravitas associated with this phrase as it’s not every day that an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is born or that a Patek Philippe Nautilis sees the light of day.
Back in 1972, Genta developed a watch that revived Audemars Piguet, as the company was hit hard by the Quartz Crisis. He dared to create the first luxury watch in stainless steel—a radical idea for an era when such high-end watches were only made in precious metals. Inspired by vintage diving helmets and their screws, as well as from the oak hull of the HMS Royal Oak—one of the warships of the Royal Navy fleet (that’s how the watch got its name), the Royal Oak timepiece was a watershed moment in the haute horlogerie history as Genta designed the prototype in a single night, thereby increasing the demand and value for stainless steel watches—a pioneering feat by the Le Brassus-based company. And four years later, the maestro followed up this achievement by creating the Nautilis—also inspired from the nautical world—a watch that’s become the holy grail of timepieces and one of the most sought-after from the independent watchmaker Patek Philippe. The highlight here was a delicate balance between elegance and a sporty aesthetic, making this one of the most versatile watches, suited to any occasion, yet extremely coveted in the collectors’ circles. Here, the shape of the dial is reminiscent of portholes found in the Nautilis—a fictional submarine belonging to Captain Nemo from Jules Verne’s famous novel, Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea. According to certain accounts, Genta drew up the sketch of this icon in merely five minutes on a paper napkin, at a restaurant.
Apart from creating these legendary pieces, Genta was also the visionary genius behind revamping the Omega Constellation collection in 1959 and designing the revered IWC Ingenieur in 1976. The USP of this sober and elegant watch was the five screws on the bezel and a soft iron inner case for anti-magnetic protection. While this has undergone various stages of evolution, it still remains one of the most important collections for IWC, till date. And while talking about these watches, how can one not mention the Bulgari-Bulgari timepiece developed in association with the Italian maison Bulgari. Born in 1977, this watch was inspired by an ancient Roman coin and garnered attention for its unique design and architecture.
An Independent Voyage—Gerald Charles And Their Top Collections
After designing some of the best-selling timepieces for distinguished brands and adding value to their portfolio through horological masterpieces, Genta decided to embark on an independent journey. In 2000, he founded an eponymous brand—Gerald Charles—to produce watches, imbued with his signature design and engineering know-how—combining Italian design sensibilities with traditional Swiss watchmaking codes. For three years he stayed at the helm of the company and decided to sell it in 2003 but continued as the designer-in-chief of the maison. The legacy of his name is carried forward in every timepiece that’s reflective of the brand’s motto of ‘artistic creativity, technical mastery’.
In 2011, Genta passed away, leaving a treasure trove of various watch designs behind him. Since then, Gerald Charles have launched timepieces which deliver superior performance and precision as well as exceptional water- and shock-resistance. Currently the family-owned company produces around 2,000 pieces annually, and these come under collections such as: the GC 2.0 Ultra-Thin, GC 3.0 Chronograph, GC Sport, Maestro 8.0 Squelette, Maestro 9.0 Tourbillon, and Historic Models.
These elegant sports watches are produced without compromising on the finest traditions and cutting-edge technology, and are designed and manufactured to sit comfortably on the wrist. Let’s look at some of the top watches from their best-selling lines.
Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin
An ode to the genius watchmaker, the Maestro is the brand’s signature design and a perpetual tribute to the legacy of Gérald Charles Genta. The models featured here are automatic versions, crafted in stainless-steel. Apart from being ultra-thin, lightweight watches that sit elegantly on the wrist, the 40mm timepieces are designed to be high-performing sports watches. They weigh just 85 gm and are water-resistant to 100m. They are available in two dial colour options: emerald green or black, and are presented on matching rubber straps.
There is also a rose-gold version with a royal blue dial and rubber strap, in sync with the maison’s vision of sporty-elegant timepieces that convey casual charm and sophistication, and are powered by reliable Swiss mechanics.
All automatic models house the sophisticated Calibre GCA3002—a 3.7mm thick movement that delivers time and date functions, elevated levels of accuracy, and vibration and shock resistance, all thanks to a twin-barrel system, which supplies a 50-hour power reserve. It has a bi-directional rotor, set on a low-friction ceramic ball bearing system.
Recently, the brand have introduced another exceptional piece to this line, a stunning Ultra-Thin automatic in an 18-karat rose gold case with a chocolate brown dial, presented on a matching brown vulcanised rubber strap. The dial features a sunburst finish, where light hits differently at various angles. Just like all their watches, the tiniest elements, including those that aren’t visible, have been technically perfected and hand-decorated to the highest standards. The case constitutes 35 components, and is constructed in a manner where it seems to be crafted in just one piece, thanks to the extremely accurate engineering. It is also driven by the Calibre GCA3002, which features a high-grade oscillating weight set on a low-friction ceramic ball bearings system, with a power reserve of at least 50 hours.
GC 3.0 Chronograph
The Maestro line also features chronographs in stainless-steel with emerald green or black dials, encased in a 40mm stainless-steel framework, measuring 40mm and weighing just 110 gm. Water-resistant to 100m, these chronographs offer advanced levels of shock resistance. Compared to previous generations, these chronograph models have raised flanks that give the watch a squarer, more octagonal appearance, and extended, rounded lugs that deliver improved ergonomics. It also features irregular-shaped pushers that follow the contours of the case flank, protecting and even enhancing the Maestro’s signature silhouette.
There are also two other versions with royal blue dials but in case materials of titanium or rose gold. Creating the titanium version was quite a challenge for the brand since it’s a highly resistant material and much harder to manipulate into complex forms, when compared to stainless steel. It’s also not an easy task to manufacture the chronograph pushers and Clous de Paris crown in titanium. Here, the case and pushers are mirror-polished to capture and retain the elegance of the Maestro line and the watch weighs less than half its counterpart in stainless steel.
All the chronograph versions are powered by the Calibre GCA3022/12, an automatic twin-barrel movement measuring just 6.07mm in height, including its bi-directional rotating oscillating weight, and offers a power reserve of at least 50 hours.
GC Sport
As the name suggests, the elegant, lightweight GC Sport has been developed specifically for wearing while playing sport and has been approved by some of the world’s most successful professional athletes including tennis professionals. Based on the inimitable Maestro, the watch combines ultra-light, robust architecture with traditional fine watchmaking techniques. It’s a wristwatch that can be worn on both the field and at a gala dinner, and comes in a 39mm polished titanium case, which is as hard as steel but 40 percent lighter and the entire watch just weighs 50 gm. The watch’s screw-down crown has moved from the right to the left side of the case to prevent rubbing during play, following feedback from the players.
It is powered by the GCA3002 automatic manufacture movement, which has been specially adapted and made stronger for this watch and is up to 40 per cent more resistant to shocks and stresses caused by high-impact movements. The rotor, too, has been adapted in a manner where it doesn’t wind the movement too quickly during intense physical exercise, thereby omitting the risk of over winding it. Measuring 3.7mm, this slim movement also has undergone a series of fine adjustments and testing, and is visible through the exhibition caseback. Water-resistant to 100m, it features applied Arabic numerals at three, nine, and 12 o’clock along with a date window positioned at six on the deep-blue dial, and is paired with a matching blue rubber strap for the ultimate understated elegance in a sports watch.
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Gerald Charles Maestro
GC3.0-TN-01
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Gerald Charles Maestro
GC2.0-A-02
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Gerald Charles Maestro
GC2.0-A-00
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Gerald Charles Maestro
GC2.0-RG-01
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Gerald Charles Maestro
GC3.0-A-02
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Gerald Charles Maestro
GC2.0-RG-05
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Gerald Charles Maestro
GC3.0-A-00
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Gerald Charles Maestro
GC3.0-RG-01
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Gerald Charles Maestro
GC2.0-TX-TN-01
