ReviewLasered Kaleidoscope: Presenting The Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser
Oris introduce watchmaking’s first-ever lasered dial in their ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser watch, a visual treat of rainbow hues inspired by a natural phenomenon and created entirely by laser, with zero added pigments
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The Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 series has seen a range of colour with the first trio in salmon pink, grey and blue, followed by the Kermit edition in a lime green. However, it is the brand’s latest release, the ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser edition, that takes the edgy and super-cool pilot’s watch collection into another dimension, with its iridescent titanium dial achieved by multiple lasering techniques and no pigmentation whatsoever. The dial changes colour when viewed from different angles, offering shades of green, blue and violet—the lower half of the rainbow spectrum. This is the first time such a lasering technique has been used to create a watch dial and the result is absolutely marvellous, perhaps even the best version of the ProPilot X Calibre 400 so far.
Inspired By Independence: Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser
Oris are an independent Hölstein-based manufacture, and this gives them the freedom to approach their craft with new ideas, or forge partnerships that make sense. Most of the brand’s sustainability efforts are a result of their collaborations. For the dial of their latest ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser, the brand have collaborated with a research lab affiliated to one of the world’s leading science and technology research universities, ETH Zürich, a school that is widely regarded for its innovation. This is the first time that this revolutionary laser technology has been applied to creating the dial, and the kaleidoscopic dial is undoubtedly the hero of the watch.
Inspired By Nature: Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser
The dial of the ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser is, in fact, inspired by a natural phenomenon called optical interference. This occurrence, seen in soap bubbles or a layer of oil on water, takes place when light waves overlap, and while some elements of the wave get heightened, others get cancelled. “If a certain range—the longer red waves, for example—gets destroyed, only the medium green and shorter blue waves get reflected. It’s colour creation by addition,” explains Richard ‘Ipy’ Siegrist, product development engineer at Oris. “We’ve also added a second layer that splits the visible light into its components and creates a shimmering rainbow effect.”
The most interesting aspect of this new dial is that there is no pigmentation or addition of colour in any form. It’s all biomimicry, almost as if one’s eyes were playing tricks on the mind. “Everything is achieved via a laser treatment that changes the watch’s titanium dial in such a way that the light waves that get reflected back to your eyes only contain a certain spectrum of the visible light, and therefore give you an impression of colour,” says Siegrist.
Besides the rainbow effect and the shimmering of the dial, the text, minute track, and long, slim indexes have also been created using laser technology that looks like it has a three-dimensional effect. Sword-shaped hands are filled with black Super-LumiNova, aiding legibility in the dark. So beautiful is the effect of the innovative new lasered dial that the brand decided to forego the date window at six o’clock. The dial looks clean and uncluttered, yet easy to read.
Inspired By Innovation: Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser
The facetted titanium case of the ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser measures 39mm. Satin and sandblasted finishes on the case and bracelet are disrupted by the brand’s signature knurled bezel, inspired by jet engine turbines. The large crown is protected by angular guards, and the sleek, facetted titanium bracelet fits comfortably around the wrist—Oris redesigned the bracelet to look edgier for the ProPilot X release last year. With its 100m water resistance, the watch is not just lightweight and comfortable but also practical and wearable.
Inside the watch is another futuristic innovation by Oris—the calibre 400, with enhanced accuracy and anti-magnetism, and a power reserve of five days, among other awesome features. The exhibition caseback allows a glimpse into this movement.
Read more about calibre 400 here
Innovations such as the lasered kaleidoscopic dial of the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser are what pave the way for independent brands in the horological world. For having developed such a cool idea and for creating such a beautiful application for it, the brand deserve kudos.