Round-UpUnder A Shell Spell: 10 Magnificent Timepieces With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials

Some of the most exquisite watches you can find use mother-of-pearl for crafting dials that make quite a statement on the wrist. Also known as nacre—originally a 14th century French term—this material is secreted by molluscs and is an integral element found in their inner-shell layer. You’ll be able to spot this easily if you look closely inside their hardened armour. It’s almost a hypnotic sight to gaze at the iridescent pattern formed by this glistening material, whose beauty is further enhanced when light reflects differently off its surface, when seen from different angles. Though as glorious as it looks, mother-of-pearl is extremely brittle in nature, and this makes it quite challenging to work with. Traditionally, mother-of-pearl was used in women’s timepieces since the early 1900s since its texture complemented precious materials such as gold and diamonds that were used in dainty, and mostly jewelled timekeepers. However, with advancements and new techniques, this is not just a material reserved for women’s watches any longer, and brands are leaving no stone unturned in using mother-of-pearl in different hues to break away from the monotony while also combining them with functions such as the elegant moon phase display, a retrograde calendar and even a tourbillon in some instances. Here’s a look at 10 marvellous mother-of-pearl creations that will surely regale you with their au naturel charm.

Baume & Mercier Riviera

Launched in 1973, the watches in Baume & Mercier’s Riviera collection stand out for their angular and sporty designs. The collection has evolved over the years and today, Riviera is the centrepiece of the brand’s versatile catalogue. The model featured here comes in a 33mm stainless steel case and bracelet and is powered by an automatic movement. It is adorned with a white mother-of-pearl dial, which looks quite stately when paired with this framework. The polished satin-finished strap—featuring a reliable, interchangeability system for use without tools—makes it possible to change looks on a whim. The 12-sided bezel with four diamonds in place of screws further enhances the sophisticated appeal of this watch.

Breitling Navitimer 32

One of Breitling’s most iconic collections, the Navitimer needs no introduction when it comes to the horological world. With its distinct design featuring a slide rule, it has been one of the top mechanical chronographs, trusted by aviation professionals worldwide. However, the brand have revamped this design to introduce a smaller 32mm version with a simplified dial design suited to its slim profile. The model featured here is crafted entirely in red gold including the case and bracelet, and features a resplendent mother-of-pearl dial along with 12 diamonds as hour markers. This gives the timepiece a jewellery-like appeal, making it versatile enough to be paired with other accessories or simply worn alone to make a statement. The watch comes with a solid closed caseback and is water-resistant to 50m.

The Breitling Navitimer 32mm model is crafted entirely in red gold including the case and bracelet, and features a resplendent mother-of-pearl dial along with 12 diamonds as hour markers

Bulgari Serpenti Spiga

The most iconic design associated with the Italian jeweller and watchmaker, the Serpenti really needs no introduction when it comes to high-end watches for women. This Serpenti Spiga was introduced in three new iterations, earlier this year, during the digital edition of LVMH Watch Week, and is truly spectacular as it represents an evolution of the Serpenti style. Crafted with exquisite gold and diamond, and featuring an intricate matelassé pattern, these ornate pieces represent Bulgari’s unique ability to redraw the boundaries of creativity, refinement and expertise. The model featured here is crafted in 18-karat rose gold, with a 35mm case and bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds and a stately crown topped with a single cabochon-cut rubellite. Within this framework lies the elegant white mother-of-pearl dial that features rose gold hour markers, and the hour and minute hands. The uncluttered design adds to the beauty of this dazzling watch that also features a single-row 18-karat rose gold bracelet partially set with 281 brilliant-cut diamonds. It comprises 40 links cast from 40 different moulds, and this is a painstaking process that requires a good number of man-hours to get the perfect piece ready for women who have a taste for the finest things in life.

This Serpenti Spiga model is crafted in 18-karat rose gold, with a 35mm case and bezel set with diamonds. Within this lies a mother-of-pearl dial that features rose gold hour markers and hands

The uncluttered design adds to the beauty of this dazzling watch that also features a single-row, 18-karat rose gold bracelet partially set with 281 brilliant-cut diamonds

BVLGARI Serpenti

₹51,69,000

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Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral

The Manero Peripheral watches for women are beautiful, inside-out. On the surface they showcase a mother-of-pearl dial in white or brown, in a 40mm stainless steel case, topped by a bezel paved with 60 diamonds. This becomes a winning combination since these watches are powered by the in-house manufacture calibre CFB A2050, which was launched in 2016. It offers a central hour and minute display, accompanied by small seconds at six o’clock as well as the date at three o’clock. It draws its energy from a double-sided self-winding mechanism with a peripheral rotor that enables a low case thickness—perfect for the subtle proportions of dress watches. A power reserve of 55 hours and the precise chronometer speed certified by the COSC make the Manero Peripheral an ideal companion for those who will not just settle for anything but the best.

The Manero Peripheral watches showcase a mother-of-pearl dial in white or brown, in a 40mm stainless steel case, topped by a bezel paved with 60 diamonds

The resplendent dial features a central hour and minute display, accompanied by small seconds at six o’clock as well as the date at three o’clock

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Shop the Collection

Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Lotus

Launched in 2004, the Cat’s Eye Collection busts the myth that women’s watches can only look pretty. Inspired by the mysterious eyes of the stealthy felines, these watches combine design excellence along with intricate mechanical movements, housed in signature oval cases—much like the enigma of the elusive creature. The Cat’s Eye Lotus, crafted in stainless-steel is an ode to nature and is a part of the brand’s Day and Night series. It features a gorgeous mother-of-pearl dial, which has been given a different texture at the inner core and on the periphery—making it stand out in terms of design and execution. There is also a lotus motif above six o’clock, which enhances the feminine appeal of this timepiece and seeks inspiration from the flowering of the lotus flower at dawn. It is brought to life by the GP03300 movement that comprises 240 parts and offers a 46-hour power reserve.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous Night & Day

Launched in 2012, the Rendez-Vous collection has become one of the bestselling lines for the brand as it offers a range of stunning dress timepieces coupled with the mechanical chops required for supreme precision. The Dazzling Night & Day models stand out for their bejewelled appeal combined with resplendent mother-of-pearl dials. Available in 36mm white or pink gold with alligator leather straps (in shades of blue or taupe), these timepieces are the epitome of uncompromising attention to detail. The case, bezel and lugs are adorned with two rows of diamonds that form the perfect framework for the mother-of-pearl dials, with a third row of these dazzling stones, set right at the centre of these elegant discs. The interplay of light mixed with the radiance of these diamonds makes the dials look even more iridescent. The day/night indicator moves across a starry sky of mother-of-pearl within an aperture at six o’clock. The sword-shaped hands and the floral numerals complete the artistic symmetry of these timepieces. The Dazzling Rendez-Vous jewelled watches are driven by the automatic in-house calibres 898B and 925A that keep them running for at least 38 hours when fully wound.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Shop the Collection

Longines Master Collection

Longines have been producing exceptional timepieces since time immemorial that stand true to their tagline, ‘Elegance is an attitude’. Launched in 2005, the Longines Master Collection, today, is the perfect illustration of this ethos. The watches in this collection exude a unisex vibe and are all powered by automatic movements equipped with special features. The model featured here comes in a decent and comfortable, round stainless steel case measuring 34mm in diameter. It showcases a sublime mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hour markers, complemented by classic, silver hour, minute and seconds hands. There is a beautiful moon phase register at six o’clock that also displays the date with the help of a tiny hand, moving across this counter. This watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement that can store a significant energy reserve of up to 72 hours. Water-resistant to 30m, this stellar timepiece is presented on a red leather strap that further enhances the beauty of the dial.

The Longines Master Collection model featured here comes in a decent and comfortable, round stainless steel case measuring 34mm in diameter

₹2,97,000

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It showcases a sublime mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hour markers, complemented by classic, silver hour, minute and seconds hands

₹2,97,000

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There is a beautiful moon phase register at six o’clock that also displays the date with the help of a tiny hand, moving across this counter

₹2,97,000

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Omega Ladymatic Co-Axial Chronometer 34mm

One of the most iconic collections from Omega, the Ladymatic is truly a work of art and innovation on the wrist. Featured here is the Ladymatic Co-Axial Chronometer 34mm—an elegant watch with an undeniable glamorous appeal. A part of the De Ville collection, the model showcases an exquisite mother-of-pearl dial, a date window at three o’clock, diamonds as hour markers, and a diamond-studded bezel. Crafted with Sedna Gold, the timepiece is water-resistant to 100m, and is powered by the automatic 8521 calibre, which is visible through the exhibition caseback.

Oris Aquis Date 36.5mm

These Aquis Date models, feature gorgeous mother-of-pearl dials in hues of blue, pink, and green. While they retain their sporty aesthetic, it’s the dials that makes them supremely attractive, enhancing their overall elegance. Crafted in solid stainless steel, these dive timers offer a water-resistance of at least 300m and are presented on matching blue, pink, and green rubber straps. These dive timers include a number of features such as: a unidirectional rotating bezel with a minutes scale for timing dives, a screw-down crown with protection, luminescent hands and hour markers, and a ‘lollypop’ seconds hand with a lume-filled dot that glows in low-light areas. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal and features a date window, positioned at six o’clock.

These Oris Aquis Date models, feature gorgeous mother-of-pearl dials in hues of blue, pink, and green. While they retain their sporty aesthetic, it’s the dials that makes them supremely attractive, enhancing their overall elegance

Panerai Luminor Piccolo Due Madreperla

The Luminor Piccolo Due Madreperla is a true ‘Panerai’ watch in every sense, and is for strong, independent women, yet doesn’t compromise on the feminine aspect. The watch stands out for its mother-of-pearl dial—a first for Panerai—and its versatile and eclectic mix of fine Italian aesthetics. The gorgeous dial is complemented by pink gold hands, Arabic numerals and indexes filled with SuperLumiNova. The date window is placed at three o’clock while the seconds counter balances the symmetry at nine o’clock. The 38mm case—the smallest ever for a Panerai watch—is crafted in Goldtech. This is a trademark gold alloy that looks rich and glossy due to a significant percentage of copper (24 percent) and platinum (4 percent), and also boasts an extremely high resistance to oxidation. Water-resistant to 30m, the Piccolo Due Madreperla is brought to life by an automatic mechanical movement calibre P.900, composed of 171 components, with a three-day power reserve. It is presented on a lustrous cherry-red alligator strap, and also features a quick-release system for its strap, so the wearer can easily interchangeable between alternative straps available in a multitude of colours and textures.

The Panerai Piccolo Due Madreperla timepiece stands out for its mother-of-pearl dial—a first for Panerai—and its versatile and eclectic mix of fine Italian aesthetics

₹17,09,100

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The gorgeous dial is complemented by pink gold hands, Arabic numerals and indexes filled with SuperLumiNova

₹17,09,100

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The date window is placed at three o’clock while the seconds counter balances the symmetry at nine o’clock

₹17,09,100

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