Round-UpTen Terrific Titanium Timepieces—Capturing The Benefits Of The Tough, Lightweight Metal
Horological aficionados often harbour an affinity towards titanium, and not without reason. An extremely lightweight metal, titanium even scores higher than steel in terms of durability, making it the perfect fit for timepieces. Here are 10 fine examples of watches that boast a titanium construction
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Horological enthusiasts are often not just swayed by the aesthetic appeal of a timepiece or its mechanical complications. They also take into consideration the materials the watch is constructed from, which is an essential factor that determines its sturdiness. When it comes to the case material, hardly any metal can match up to everything titanium has to offer. Twice as strong as stainless steel while weighing only half as much, titanium also keeps allergic reactions at bay, unlike other conventional metals. This is because, as opposed to stainless steel, titanium does not contain nickel, which is known to cause skin rashes or allergies for some people due to perspiration. Its lightweight nature makes it one of the most preferred metals when it comes to manufacturing function-packed professional watches that are likely to be too heavy if made from steel.
The Citizen X8 Chronometer was the first titanium watch in the world, introduced in 1970. Before its release, titanium had been a mainstay in the aeronautical and defence industries, having been used to construct spacecraft and missiles. However, soon titanium found its way into the horological industry as well. With changing times and evolving trends, more and more watch connoisseurs have begun to prefer lighter watches, which allow their arms to be absolutely unencumbered, especially when it comes to engaging in some high-energy activity. As a bonus, titanium is absolutely resistant to rust and corrosion, almost at par with platinum. The most commonly used titanium alloy is Ti-6Al-4V, better known as ‘grade-5 titanium’. An exceptionally resilient metal, grade-5 titanium is also less susceptible to the adverse effects of heat, magnetism, and abrasion, making it quite the perfect pick for the watchmaking industry.
Deriving its name from the precursors of the Greek gods—the Titans—titanium has emerged to be a favourite among watchmakers and collectors alike. Though it commands a higher price than stainless steel, watch aficionados are more than willing to shell out the extra bucks given its hypoallergenic character, durability, and eco-friendliness, among other traits. Also, the darker and more matte-grey appearance of titanium, as compared to stainless steel, lends it an alluring and unconventional look. If you seek a blend of style and functionality, you simply cannot ignore titanium watches offered by some of the most famed watchmakers. We have handpicked the 10 best titanium watches for men and women that you can find today.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
Driven by the genius of 15th and 16th-century Italian artists such as Leonardo Da Vinci, the Octo brings together a unique octagonal design and exceptional mechanisms. The titanium case has a crown set with ceramic. Interestingly, this timepiece grabbed the headlines when it was launched in 2017, for featuring the brand’s thinnest movement ever—calibre BVL 138, only 2.23mm. This helped make it the thinnest ever automatic watch at the time, at a total thickness of just 5.15mm. The transparent caseback reveals the movement decorated by hand with Côtes de Genève, chamfering and perlage finishing—the perfect blend of Swiss watchmaking know-how and slick Italian aesthetics. Incredibly thin and subtle, this titanium edition also features central indications for the hours and minutes, and an off-centre indication for the seconds. Water-resistant to 30m, the watch is presented on a black leather strap, and there is also a version available in a sleek titanium bracelet, that enhances its suave appeal.
Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec Black Manta Special Edition
Dive timers rose to prominence in the 1950s when they were specifically designed as tool watches for professional divers. And not just that, they serve as safety gear for deep sea divers and scuba divers, to help them reach back to the surface in perfect time since it’s easy to lose track of time underwater. However, like all other tool watches, dive watches, too, have undergone evolution to emerge in their modern-day avatar. They are now not necessarily worn for diving, and surprisingly look extremely stylish even when paired with a tuxedo. We recommend the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec Black Manta Special Edition—a COSC-certified chronometer that comes in an ultralight, 44.6mm titanium case that’s water-resistant to 500m, and is equipped with a helium release valve. It also furthers the brand’s efforts towards sustainable practices as part of the proceeds are donated to the UK-based Manta Trust charity, which works towards preserving the marine ecosystem and wildlife. The watch offers supreme legibility underwater, thanks to the Super-LumiNova-coated indices and hands, which frame the silhouettes of two manta rays in the centre of the black dial. The dive time can be easily set with the unidirectional rotating bezel in titanium and ceramic—one of the watch’s safety features, alongside the automatic helium release valve. It is powered by the automatic CFB 1950.1 calibre, which supplies a power reserve of 38 hours, and is presented on a black rubber strap with a recycled textile layer.
Corum Admiral 38 Automatic
The Corum Admiral evolved from its square case in the 1960s to a dodecagonal one with 12 nautical pennants as hour markers on the dial in 1983. Today, these serve as instant identifiers of an Admiral timepiece, along with a unique Grenadier Fendu (‘split pomegranate’) motif on the dial. The Admiral 38 automatic has a dodecagonal 38mm case made from titanium, with a 12-sided titanium bezel paved with 72 diamonds, that stand out against the muted sheen of the polished case and bezel. This nautical inspired timepiece offers a water resistance of 100m. Its blush pink dial is decorated with the brand’s three-dimensional ‘grenadier fendu’ pattern. A matching pink inner-flange ring discreetly houses the 12 nautical flags that serve as hour markers. The timepiece houses the brand’s automatic CO 082 calibre, with a 42-hour power reserve, and is presented on an ultra-light titanium bracelet or a blush pink rubber strap to match the dial.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph
Launched in the 1970s—at a time when mechanical watchmaking had taken a hit due to the advent of cheaper and more precise quartz watches—Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato managed to successfully fill the void in the luxury sports watch segment, back then. And not resting on its laurels, it continues to excel, constantly evolving using new materials and superior technology. The Laureato Absolute Chronograph model here, was unveiled at SIHH 2019 and stands out for its 44mm black-coated titanium case with a gradient black-to-blue dial. It features a central seconds hand with a small seconds sub-dial at three o’clock, the 12 hour counter at six, and the 30-minute sub-dial positioned at nine. There’s also a date aperture, tucked between four and five o’clock. It is powered by the in-house automatic calibre GP03300, beating at a frequency of 28,800vph with a power reserve of 46 hours. It guarantees impeccable precision and allows the watch to function smoothly, even when it’s used under extreme outdoor conditions. The movement is decorated with Geneva stripes, and the finishing also includes chamfering and graining. However, one can’t view this since the caseback is screwed-down to ensure optimum water resistance of at least 300m. The Laureato Absolute Chronograph makes a strong presence on the wrist, and is complemented by a fully integrated rubber strap with Girard-Perregaux branding.
Louis Erard La Sportive Limited Edition Titanium
Louis Erard are known for their quality craftsmanship and competitive pricing. The 250-piece limited edition of the La Sportive timepiece with a titanium case and gradient blue dial is excellent value proposition offered by the brand. The brushed and polished 44mm case, with a thickness of 15mm, wears much smaller and slimmer, courtesy of its grade 5 titanium construction. This sporty timepiece features a titanium bezel with a black ceramic insert marked with a tachymeter scale. On the dial, three black chronograph recorders in black stand out against a sunray-brushed gradient cobalt blue dial that darkens considerably around the periphery. Hands and markers are filled with Super-LumiNova, aiding legibility, and a day-date aperture at three o’clock balances the tricompax layout nicely. Housed withing the titanium case, and visible through the sapphire caseback is the Valjoux 7750 calibre, with a personalised rotor.
Louis Moinet Memoris Superlight
Known for their steampunk aesthetics and avant-garde designs, Louis Moinet are on top of their game when it comes to chronographs that spell irreverence for the usual, traditional displays. And the Memoris is one of them. Launched in 2016, to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the chronograph, this collection highlights the chronograph mechanism by making it the central function of the watch. Unlike regular versions of the complication, here, the entire chronograph structure is visible on the upper faction of the watch. Though initially launched in a limited edition with pieces in only 18-karat red gold and white gold; the line has expanded to introduce watches in titanium as well. A modern design with a unique construction—the Memoris Superlight range consists of colourful iterations—each limited to 28 pieces. Weighing less than 31g, the 46mm case in grade-5 titanium has a polished, satin finish, is non-corrosive, and is extremely light and comfortable on the wrist. Here the timepieces feature dial colours in midnight blue, cobalt blue, brown, and in a combination of blue and orange. With an ingenious mechanism that separates the chronograph’s 147 components from the automatic mechanism’s 155 components, the column wheel positioned at 12 o’clock, takes centre stage. The chronograph functions with the minutes hammer, blocking lever, and clutch—are all controlled by this, operated by a monopusher at two o’clock. One might assume that such a complication would be tedious to manoeuvre. However, Louis Moinet have simplified this process by making this single push piece in-charge of the workings. This is part of the automatic calibre LM79, which boasts 302 parts, and allows the watch to function smoothly for at least 48 hours. Water-resistant to 50m, these Memoris Superlight models are available with navy blue, brown or cobalt blue alligator leather straps—corresponding to their respective dial hues, and are fitted with buckles featuring the brand’s fleur-de-lis logo
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M was pretty fantastic even before the world’s favourite spy put it on his wrist, although there’s no denying the popularity it attained after James Bond wore the watch. This particular 007 edition stands out for more than just being a ‘bond-watch’. Its 42mm case is made from grade 2 titanium, a choice that was, in-part, influenced by Daniel Craig’s experience as James Bond. The robust case has a water resistance rating of 300m, and features the iconic helium escape valve at 10 o’clock. Against the muted sheen of the grey titanium case is an aluminium bezel with a brown ceramic insert. The matching ‘tropical brown’ dial has retro-inspired beige indexes marked clearly with Super-LumiNova. A red-tipped seconds hand and the Seamaster logo in red are the only pops of colour on this distinguished-looking timepiece, which is powered by the co-axial chronometer calibre 8806.
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition
With a 39mm case and integrated three-link bracelet crafted entirely from titanium, the Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a timepiece that inspires joy. Satin and sandblasted finishes on the case and bracelet display just how gorgeous titanium can look with the right treatment. The brand’s signature knurling on the bezel, inspired by jet engine turbines, offers a beautiful disruption to the finishes on the case. A ‘Kermit’ green dial stands out against the subtle silver hues of the case. Slim white indexes and Super-LumiNova filled hands enhance the lime green of the dial. At six o’clock is a date window, where The Muppets’ Kermit-the-frog makes an appearance on the first of every month, to remind the wearer to take a break from all the seriousness of the day. Housed within the timepiece is the brand’s calibre 400 offering enhanced accuracy and anti-magnetism.
Panerai Submersible Guillaume Néry Edition
Inspired by the French free-diver Guillaume Néry, this special edition Submersible model adopts the easily identifiable Submersible traits and uses an array of colours that are reminiscent of the seas. The titanium case of this cushion-shaped watch, water resistant to 300m, integrates perfectly with the blue of the ceramic insert of the bezel, the blue hands and the blue rubber strap with a titanium buckle. The caseback flaunts an engraved signature of Guillaume Néry, which would certainly make this a coveted timepiece among diving enthusiasts and fans of adventure sports. The unidirectional rotating bezel facilitates the confident calculation of the times of immersion. What’s more, the Super-LumiNova coating applied to the markers, coupled with the large skeleton hands ensures legibility in the dark. This edition flaunts a handsome shark grey textured dial with applied indexes and blue accents. Powered by the P.9100 automatic calibre, this watch offers a power reserve of 72 hours.
Zenith Defy Revival Shadow
A contemporary revival of a 1969 icon, the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow features the original Defy model’s signature octagonal case and 14-sided bezel crafted from microblasted titanium. The dark-grey matt finish on the facetted 37mm case matches that on the ‘ladder’ bracelet. A matt-black dial upholds the tone of the timepiece. The only contrast on this Defy Revival Shadow timepiece is offered by vintage-inspired cream-coloured Super-LumiNova dots above horizontally-grooved square hour markers, and on the sword hands. An angled date aperture is tucked away between four and five o’clock. The clean, uncluttered layout enhances the starkness of the dial, case and bracelet. Hidden behind the dial but visible from the crystal on the caseback is the Elite 670 calibre with a rotor in the shape of the brand’s five-pointed-star logo.
One can hardly deny that the premium cost of titanium watches is justified, given the many advantages that the metal promises. The good news is that more and more luxury brands are beginning to offer titanium watches, making them a little more accessible. If you lean more towards watches with a resilient character, then it is high time you think beyond the usual steel and explore titanium to enrich your horological treasures.
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