ReviewFreak On A Mission: Presenting The Ulysse Nardin Freak X OPS

Ever since Ulysse Nardin changed the horological landscape with the release of the Freak, a watch with no dial, hands or crown, the brand have periodically reinvented this avant-garde timepiece. Although just as peculiar as the 2001 Freak, today, each version of the Freak is as refined as it is futuristic, all while maintaining the first Freak’s strikingly bizarre DNA. The Freak X arrived in 2019 as a more wearable version of the watch, courtesy of its crown at three o’clock on the case. In the last five years, much like all the other Freaks in the family, the Freak X too has seen a few updates with new material and colour being added to the collection. The stealthiest of the lot is perhaps the Freak X OPS, a titanium timepiece with flanks crafted from carbon fibre and green epoxy resin, making each timepiece unique for its distinct marbled khaki and black patterns.

Silicon Revolution

The brainchild of then owner of Ulysse Nardin, Rolf Schnyder, and maverick watchmaker Dr Ludwig Oechslin, the revolutionary 2001 Freak redefined watchmaking in the 21st century for being dial-less, hand-less and crown-less. More importantly, it was the first ever watch whose mechanical movement consisted of silicon parts. Regardless of the uproar caused by the silicon escapement wheel, the non-magnetic material has since been adopted by numerous watch brands. For this, credit goes to the first Ulysse Nardin Freak and the visionaries that pushed for it.

In 2019, Ulysse Nardin presented the Freak X, a mutation of the original Freak but with one key difference—this Freak X had a traditional crown

Addition of a crown eschewed the need for the rotating bezel which was used to set the time, and caseback that was used to wind the watch, making the Freak X more accessible

In 2019, the brand presented the Freak X, a mutation of the original Freak but with one key difference—this Freak X had a traditional crown. Essentially, this crown eschewed the need for the rotating bezel which was used to set the time, and caseback that was previously used to wind the watch, making the Freak X infinitely more accessible than other versions of the Freak. However, as far as dial and hands go, the Freak X had none. A flying carousel movement displayed on the dial size served as the minutes hand while the hours were indicated via a pointer on a rotating disc at its base.

Rise Of The Freak X OPS

Powered by the brand’s automatic UN-230 calibre, the Ulysse Nardin Freak X OPS displays this flying carousel movement on the dial side. Turning on its own axis once every hour, this flying carousel is set atop a mainplate, which is marked with a pointer that indicates the hours. The bridge housing the flying carousel also has a pointer-tip and serves as the minutes hand. Both pointers on the Freak X OPS are generously filled with khaki green Super-LumiNova, enhancing the stealth aesthetic of the timepiece against blackened components of the movement. On the dial are 11 indexes—all filled with matching green Super-LumiNova—and the Ulysse Nardin logo at 12 o’clock. The minute track sits on the flange, punctuated with lume-filled dots that correspond with the indexes.

Worth noting on the dial is the oversized silicon oscillator. The blue of the silicon stands out against the blackened movement and khaki highlights. The movement’s balance wheel and escapement are also made from silicon, offering better anti-magnetism and also enhancing the efficiency of the timepiece. The UN-230 manufacture calibre oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a fairly decent power reserve of 72 hours.

‘Magma’ Flanks Of The Freak X OPS

The largely black aesthetic of the ‘dial’, with highlights in a camouflage green, are offset by the khaki ‘magma’ flanks around the 43mm titanium case of the Freak X OPS, which also features a black DLC coating. This carbon composite was seen in the Freak X Magma timepiece, where the flanks were in marbled red and black, courtesy of carbon fibre and red marbled epoxy resin. For the Freak X OPS, Ulysse Nardin have blended black carbon fibres and green epoxy resin to create an original carbon composite that displays a distinct marbling of khaki and black. This is what sets each case apart as striations on every watch are unique.

Worth noting on the dial is the oversized silicon oscillator. Blue of the silicon stands out against the blackened movement and khaki highlights

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The largely black aesthetic of the ‘dial’, with highlights in a camouflage green, are offset by the khaki ‘magma’ flanks around the 43mm titanium case of the Freak X OPS

A sapphire crystal window on the titanium caseback offers a different perspective of the movement within. The watch is water resistant to 50m, rendering it suitable for everyday use. Paired with a fabric strap in khaki, the watch comes with an eco-friendly alternative, a black fabric strap crafted from recycled fishing nets.

In just 20 years, Ulysse Nardin changed the horological landscape with its revolutionary Freak, and have, since 2019, redefined what it means to be a Freak. A symbol of refinement in haute horlogerie, despite its outlier status, the Freak X OPS is a good example of what a statement watch should be—stealthy yet noteworthy, and an obvious freak.