ReviewTudor Set Sail With The Pelagos FXD ‘Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition’

Watchmaking, at its core, is an exercise in problem-solving. How to measure time more accurately, how to withstand greater depths, how to marry form and function in a package barely larger than a coin. Tudor‘s offering—the Pelagos FXD ‘Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition’—poses a different question altogether: how does one translate the cutting-edge engineering of America’s Cup racing into a wristwatch?

The answer, it turns out, involves carbon composites and fixed lugs, challenging our expectations of what the Tudor can be. While not a complete reinvention, this isn’t just another limited edition with a fancy dial. It’s a significant evolution of the Pelagos line, one that pushes Tudor into new territory both in materials and function.

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Tudor’s approach here is particularly inspired, recognising the shared DNA between dive watches and sailing chronometers. By evolving the robust architecture of the Pelagos FXD—originally designed for combat divers—and infusing it with materials and features tailored for regatta timing, Tudor have created a versatile hybrid. This new iteration speaks to the demands of modern nautical pursuits, bridging the gap between professional diving instruments and precision sailing tools.

The Carbon Core: A Shared Innovation

Tudor’s dive into carbon composites with these new Pelagos FXD models isn’t just about creating a cool-looking watch. It’s a fundamental shift in their approach to watchmaking, one that mirrors the cutting-edge engineering of modern America’s Cup racing.

The America’s Cup, often called the ‘Formula 1 of the seas,’ has pushed sailing technology to its limits. The AC75 class yachts used in recent competitions are marvels of nautical engineering. These 75-foot monohulls literally fly above the water on hydrofoils, reaching speeds of over 50 knots. To achieve this, teams rely heavily on carbon fibre composites, prized for their exceptional strength-to-weight ratio.

Tudor’s adoption of carbon composite for the Pelagos FXD cases is a direct nod to this racing heritage. The material offers a unique combination of lightness and durability that’s crucial in high-performance sailing. But Tudor don’t stop at carbon. The watches feature a complex case construction that marries the composite with titanium and stainless steel elements. The bezel, with its 120-click bidirectional mechanism, uses a titanium base with a carbon composite insert. This hybrid approach maintains the robust feel expected of a tool watch while significantly reducing overall weight.

A Legit Dial

The dial colour—a deep, matt blue—serves as a nod to the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team colours. Tudor’s signature ‘snowflake’ hands and square hour markers, crafted from monobloc ceramic composite, ensure high legibility in varied conditions. This is essential not only for diving but also for the demanding conditions aboard a racing yacht, where the crew is constantly exposed to splashing water and intense motion.

What’s FXD?

The FXD in Tudor’s Pelagos FXD stands for ‘fixed,’ referring to the watch’s fixed strap bars—a feature rooted in Tudor’s history of creating watches for military divers, particularly the French Marine Nationale. Introduced in the 1960s and revived in 2021, these welded bars eliminate the risk of spring bar failure during intense operations. In the context of yacht racing, where crews are constantly in motion and exposed to the elements, this added security is more than just a historical callback—it’s a practical necessity.

The Pelagos FXD

Turning our attention to the time-only Pelagos FXD, we find a watch that builds upon the military-inspired origins of its predecessor while embracing new materials and aesthetics. The 42mm case retains the distinctive fixed lug design that gives the FXD its name.

What sets this iteration apart is its movement, the manufacture calibre MT5602. COSC-certified and boasting a 70-hour power reserve, this movement features a silicon balance spring and variable inertia balance, innovations that significantly enhance its resistance to magnetic fields and temperature variations—both critical considerations in the harsh marine environment.

The 42mm case retains the distinctive fixed lug design that gives the FXD its name

The bezel deserves special mention. Graduated from 60 to zero, it's designed specifically for regatta timing, allowing sailors to track the crucial countdown period before a race start

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The bezel deserves special mention. Graduated from 60 to zero, it’s designed specifically for regatta timing, allowing sailors to track the crucial countdown period before a race start. The use of grade X1 Super-LumiNova on the bezel markings ensures visibility even in low-light conditions, a thoughtful touch that underscores Tudor’s attention to real-world usability. Water resistance stands at a respectable 200m.

The Pelagos FXD Chrono

The introduction of the Pelagos FXD Chrono marks a significant milestone for Tudor, being the first chronograph in the Pelagos line. The 43mm case houses the additional complication without excessive bulk, aided by the lightweight carbon composite construction.

At the heart of this timepiece beats the manufacture calibre MT5813. Based on the Breitling B01, but with significant modifications by Tudor, this chronograph calibre represents the best of modern watchmaking. The column wheel and vertical clutch architecture ensure precise start, stop, and reset functions, while the 70-hour power reserve provides practical convenience for the wearer.

The introduction of the Pelagos FXD Chrono marks a significant milestone for Tudor, being the first chronograph in the Pelagos line

At the heart of this timepiece beats the Manufacture Calibre MT5813, which is based on the Breitling B01, but with significant modifications by Tudor

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Two sub-dials at three and nine o’clock handle the chronograph minutes and running seconds respectively, while a date window at six o’clock maintains symmetry. The red accents on the chronograph seconds hand and sub-dial rings provide a subtle nod to the Alinghi Red Bull Racing livery without overwhelming the overall aesthetic.

The watch maintains the 200m water resistance of its non-chronograph sibling, a respectable depth rating for a sports chronograph.

A Shared Heritage: The Fabric Strap

Both models are equipped with Tudor’s now-iconic fabric strap. Woven on 19th-century Jacquard looms in France, these straps are more than just a nod to heritage; they’re a functional choice that provides comfort and quick-drying capabilities essential for marine use. The ‘Team Blue’ colour with red accents ties the watches aesthetically to the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team while providing a versatile look suitable for various occasions.

Final Thoughts

At their core, these new Pelagos FXD models are a study in contrasts. They merge the robust construction of a professional dive watch with the specialised features required for competitive sailing. They marry cutting-edge carbon composites with Tudor’s storied watchmaking heritage. And perhaps most intriguingly, they represent both a departure from and an homage to Tudor’s past. As the brand continues to carve out its own identity, watches like these serve as waypoints, marking Tudor’s journey through the watchmaking world. They’re not revolutionary, nor do they need to be. Instead, they’re thoughtful evolutions that speak to Tudor’s growing confidence in their ability to innovate within the constraints of their DNA. 

The Pelagos FXD ‘Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition’ In A Nutshell

• Case: Carbon and titanium; 42mm or 43mm
• Glass: Sapphire crystal
• Bezel: Titanium, 60-minute bidirectional
• Water resistance: 200m
• Dial: Pelagos FXD – Blue and matt; Pelagos FXD Chrono – Blue, matt, and red accents on the chronograph counters
• Functions: Pelagos FXD – Hour and minute; Pelagos FXD Chrono – Chronograph, date, small seconds, hour and minute
• Movement: Self-winding calibre MT5602 for the Pelagos FXD and self-winding calibre MT5813 for the Pelagos FXD Chrono; 70-hour power reserve
• Strap: Blue fabric

Frequently Asked Questions

• What is a dive watch?

A dive watch is a timepiece designed to withstand underwater conditions and assist divers in monitoring their dive time. These watches typically feature high water resistance, luminous dials for visibility in low light, and rotating bezels to track elapsed time underwater.

• What are carbon composites in watchmaking?

Carbon composites are advanced materials used in watchmaking that combine carbon fibres with a polymer matrix. These materials offer exceptional strength-to-weight ratios, making watches lighter and more durable. They’re often used in high-performance timepieces due to their resistance to corrosion and temperature changes.

• What is COSC certification?

COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certification is a designation given to high-precision watches that have passed a series of rigorous tests. To receive COSC certification, a watch movement must demonstrate exceptional accuracy under various conditions, including different temperatures and positions.

• What is a chronograph watch?

A chronograph watch is a timepiece that combines a display watch with a stopwatch function. It typically features additional sub-dials or complications that allow the wearer to measure elapsed time independently of the main timekeeping function. Chronographs are popular in sports and aviation due to their ability to time events.