ReviewHow Hautlence Take Swiss Watchmaking Out Of The Television Box
With an avant-garde approach to haute horlogerie, Neuchatel-based watchmaker Hautlence have pushed almost every boundary of traditional watchmaking, ensuring a television-shaped imprint in the world of luxury Swiss watches
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Swiss watchmaking brand Hautlence have been breaking the mould of traditional watchmaking for 20 years, and have earned their reputation for melding traditional watchmaking know-how with innovative displays. A distinctive television shaped case—with an actual ratio of 16:9—is the most defining feature of Hautlence. And yet, the brand are so much more than their unique case shape. Their inspiration comes from just about anywhere—art, architecture, arcade games, you name it. Resulting displays are innovative, intuitive and interesting, to say the least. However one feels about the polarising design of the rectangular Hautlence watch, one just can’t ignore its presence in a room.
Hautlence And The Cradle Of Swiss Watchmaking Artistry
Founded in 2004 by Guillaume Tetu, Renaud de Retz, and three other watchmakers, the name Hautlence was decided on for being an anagram of Neuchatel, a region in Switzerland known for its watchmaking craft. In 2005, the brand presented the ground-breaking HL collection, powered by the HL calibre. Reception to these timepieces prompted more innovation over the years, and subsequently, the HLQ, HLC and HL2.0 calibres were released. Like most other independents, Hautlence too were affected by the 2008 financial crisis, but were among the few that persevered.
In 2012, the brand were acquired by independent family group MELB Holdings, who also own independent luxury watch brand H. Moser & Cie., and Precision Engineering, known for manufacturing watch escapements. This meant that the brand could remain independent and also have access to better resources. Sure enough, they released some quirky timepieces that were more statement than watch. As a matter of fact, the Playground collection actively circumnavigated the primary objective of telling time, to make a statement instead.
After a hiatus of two years, in 2022, under the leadership of Samuel Hoffman, the brand reinvented itself with the release of the Linear Series 1 and the Vagabonde series, both with unusual dial displays. These timepieces, like most Hautlence’s offerings, are produced in limited editions to maintain exclusivity. Currently in their 20th year, Hautlence show no sign of slowing down with their innovation.
Time Flows In A Linear Fashion: Hautlence Linear Series 2
A few months after releasing the Linear Series 1, at Watches and Wonders 2023, Hautlence introduced the Linear Series 2. This new timepiece featured the brand’s distinct identifiers such as the television-shaped case. And yet, the Hautlence Linear Series 2 timepiece far exceeded the Series 1. A black PVD finish decorates the 43mm by 50.8mm steel case, bezel and rubber-ringed crown of the Linear Series 2, offering a sharp visual contrast with the elements on the dial. Bevelling on the sapphire crystal glass reinforces the watch’s television-like aesthetic. The all-black timepiece is paired with a black rubber strap that integrates into a recess within the case.
On the left of the dial is a panel displaying the linear hours, quite like a control panel on a vintage CRT television set. A white pointer at the end of a linkage indicates the hour on the retrograde display. On finishing the 12th hour, the snail disengages the probe, and the pointer jumps back to the first numeral. Even for the traditional minutes display on the rest of the dial, the brand have created depth with a multi level construction that offers a view into parts of the movement. Among the visible components is the minute cam, which lifts the minute sector as the hour elapses. At the end of an hour, the minute sector falls back to its original position, driving the hour star which includes the hour cam. At six o’clock on the minutes display is a one minute flying tourbillon, visible through the skeletonised bridge. The D50 automatic calibre powers this innovative time display, with 239 components. Its regulating organ beats at a frequency of 21,600 vph, and the watch offers a power reserve of 72 hours when fully wound.
Hautlence Linear Series 2 In A Nutshell
- Case material: Satin-finished and polished steel, black PVD coating
- Dimensions: 43mm x 50.8mm; Height: 11.9 mm
- Glass: Extra-hard bevelled sapphire crystal
- Caseback: Exhibition
- Water resistance: 100m
- Dial: Multi layer construction; skeletonised, rhodium-plated brass, with vertical satin finish; engraved minute track.
- Intermediate dial: Sapphire crystal with printed minute track in white
- Functions: Linear retrograde jumping hour, one-minute flying tourbillon
- Movement: D50 automatic mechanical movement
- Power reserve: 72 hours
- Limited Edition: 28 pieces
A Wanderer’s Journey Through Time: Hautlence Vagabonde X Black Badger
The 2022 Vagabonde Series 4 timepiece forms the base for a collaboration between Hautlence and James Thompson. Called the Black Badger or the ‘Master of glow’, Thompson was struck by the space around the wandering hours display. “It is the negative space which gives this piece all its character,” he said of the watch. The Hautlence Vagabonde X Black Badger timepiece is richer for Thompson’s personal touch using 3D Badgerite elements. A ceramic composite filled with Super-LumiNova, the Badgerite created for this timepiece features Hautlence’s signature orange glow. Contrast is offered by blue Badgerite on the sapphire minute ring, while the hours display lights up with Super-LumiNova. This burst of colour and light is displayed against a black grained base, significantly playing up contrasts and depth perception on the dial.
The wandering hours complication is powered by the B30 bi-directional self-winding movement. While the hours rotate on their own axis within a central disc, matt black hour discs feature grooves that further highlight the arcade-like aesthetic on the television screen-shaped case. The satin-finished and polished steel case is sized at 43mm by 50.8mm, with a height of 11.9mm. A bevelled sapphire crystal glass covering the dial and angular case enhance the sporty appeal of the timepiece. The Hautlence Vagabonde X Black Badger is paired with an integrated blue rubber strap that matches the blue rubber ring on the crown.
Hautlence Vagabonde X Black Badger In A Nutshell
- Case material: Satin-finished and polished steel
- Dimensions: 43mm x 50.8mm; height: 11.9 mm
- Glass: Bevelled sapphire crystal
- Caseback: Exhibition
- Water resistance: 100m
- Dial: Black frosted base; dial set with orange 3D Badgerite elements; Super-LumiNova-filled hour numerals; matt black hour discs
- Intermediate dial: sapphire with white 3D Badgerite minute numerals; Lumicast rings
- Functions: Wandering hours and minutes
- Movement: B30 automatic bi-directional movement
- Power reserve: 72 hours
- Limited edition: 28 pieces
Geometry Of Timekeeping: Hautlence Sphere Series 1
Equal parts mechanical wonder and art, the Hautlence Sphere Series 1 timepiece displays the time in three dimensions. A blue sphere dominates the left of the dial with 12 numerals engraved on it. This sphere rotates along three axes using four conical gears, which are hidden behind two blue PVD-treated titanium shells that create the sphere. Even the arrangement of the numerals on the dial seems random at first, but there’s a distinct mechanical method to the madness of the timepiece. On the right of the dial is a retrograde minutes display on two levels, arranged against a backdrop of visible gears and screws of the A80 manual-winding calibre. The gear train is visible by design. When the blue, PVD-treated titanium minute hand returns to zero, the gear train slows down its movement to limit shocks. Applied Arabic minute numerals on an intermediate sapphire crystal dial are filled with Globolight, a ceramic material infused with Super-LumiNova.
The TV screen-shaped steel case of the Hautlence Sphere Series 1 measures 43mm by 50.8mm, and features a thickness of 11.9mm. Bevelled sapphire crystal glass protects the dial. If the dial is impressive, the caseback is just as fascinating a mechanical wonder. On the caseback, a sapphire crystal window offers a glimpse into the A80 movement and the blued hour sphere. The movement is equipped with a hairspring produced by Precision Engineering, the sister company of Hautlence and H. Moser. A skeletonised drum and ratchet reveal the mainspring of the barrel, displaying the movement’s 72-hour power reserve.
Hautlence Sphere Series 1 In A Nutshell
- Case material: Satin-finished and polished steel
- Dimensions: 43mm x 50.8mm; height: 11.9 mm
- Glass: bevelled sapphire crystal
- Caseback: Exhibition
- Water resistance: 100m
- Dial: Skeletonised and rhodium-plated brass with a frosted finish; polished grade 5 titanium hour sphere with blue PVD treatment
- Intermediate dial: Sapphire with applied minute numerals in Globolight
- Functions: Spherical hours and retrograde minute on a 180° sector
- Movement: A80 hand-wound movement
- Power reserve: 72 hours
- Limited edition: 28 pieces
These watches by Hautlence are only an indication of how the brand have made their TV screen-shaped presence felt in the world of haute horlogerie. Hautlence present traditional watchmaking through inventive displays that command attention, a feat that very few watchmakers with only 20 years can claim.
Shop The Story
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HAUTLENCE Vagabonde X Black Badger
AB30-ST01
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HAUTLENCE Linear Series 2
AD50-ST01
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HAUTLENCE Sphere Series 1
BA80-ST00
