FeatureEverything You Need To Know About A Panda Dial (With Our Top 6 Favourite Watches)

Nothing makes a watch lover’s heart skip a beat like a Panda dial. With their presence felt in every dial they house, there is just something hypnotic about a Panda dial. They not only mark a high contrast dial definition but also provide a much needed practical use like additional legibility. Creating an effect of two Panda eyes staring at you, Panda dials have reached the realm of the most sought-after and wanted collectible timepieces. Providing a whole new dimension to a sporty chronograph, Panda dials have increasingly augmented in value and will continue to do so, despite the changing conditions and trends of the watch world.

What is it? How many types of Panda dials are they?

When a light coloured watch dial features the various sub-elements (especially chronograph sub-dials) in dark tones, this particular design of dials is called a “Panda Dial”. Usually, in the colour combination of black and white. The “Reverse” Panda dial is when the base colour of the dial is black and the sub-dials are white. And the Semi-Panda version is one that features sub-dials in contrasting colours but not necessarily in black or white. Finally, the Vertical Panda dial again describes a dial design that houses contrasting coloured sub-dials vertically, as in at 6, 9 and 12 o’ clock.

The influx of Panda dials was huge in the 60s and 70s. Needless to say, the classic Panda dial design has undergone many changes to keep up with the contemporary times; introducing a variety of variations that have slowly and steadily climbed the popularity ladder. From the Reverse Panda and Vertical Panda variation to the Semi-Panda version, Panda dials as a design theme have made a steady evolution with time.

A Few Of The Notable Panda Dials In The World:

Since their inception in the 1960s and 70s, Panda dials have definitely made a name for themselves through the years. Arguably, among of the most sought after dial designs in recent history, a vintage Panda dial could easily cost you a fortune.

The Heuer Carrera (reference 2447 SN and 2447 NST) while does fall behind on the “desirability” department but still, holds a rather high place in the “most-wanted” list for Panda dials. A 1960s original, the 36mm Carrera is a collector’s favourite with two variations – one featuring a Panda (2447 SN) and the other a Reverse Panda dial (2447 NST). Clearly, one of the “most chased variant” of the Carrera, if you are one of the lucky few to already own a Paul Newman Daytona, then the Heuer Carrera (also called the “Holy Grail” of Carrera) can surely be your next acquisition.

What Attracts Us Most To the Panda Dial?

The answer is one word: aesthetics. The Panda dial is one of the most appealing dial designs that has ever been introduced. A true Panda dial from the 1960s or 70s is a rare find, hence the appeal increases even more. The placement of the sub-dials set against the contrasting theme of the overall watch gives off a cool vibe. A rather whimsical dial design, the allure of a Panda dial has been tested through time and proven with its far-ranging popularity and high demand even now.

Another reason why Panda dials hold a high place in the popular graph is the offering of exceptional readability. This is possible due to the contrasting colours on the dial which greatly improve readability/legibility, especially of chronographs. The use of distinctive colours makes sure that the dial is starkly divided into sections that again allow ease in reading the time as well the information shown in the various sections, especially the sub-dials. The dial also provides a very balanced aesthetic that makes the ‘Panda’ easily recognizable and forges a sturdy place on the wide spectrum of dial designs.

Now that you understand the various combinations and permutations of a Panda dial, here are The Watch Guide’s top six favourite watches featuring a Panda dial design:

1.Raymond Weil Freelancer

If there ever was a perfect Panda dial chronograph, then the Raymond Weil Freelancer is it! A personal favourite, the dial features a standard Panda dial design with three blue chronograph registers (placed at 3, 6 and 9 o’ clock) that are set perfectly against the beautiful silver background. The presence of a nicely made, vintage-leaning Panda dial provides the watch with a nice retro vibe that is incredibly attractive and almost reminds one of the vintage Daytonas. The subtle colour combination with impeccable attention to detail (like the typical ‘vinyl’ pattern running around the dial) ensures that the watch is no doubt a standalone timepiece with its very own identity.

Breaking away from the normal chronograph timepieces that fall in this price range, Raymond Weil promises to bring so much more to the table. From the minute detailing (white hands of the sub-dials that match the central second’s hand) to a powerful and reliable Valjoux 7753 under the hood, there is a whole lot on the table. More than anyone could expect from looking at the price tag of this watch. Another customized feature of the watch is the date-pusher at 10 o’ clock that completely eliminates the need to change the date from the crown. The racing-inspired leather perforated strap attached to the watch gives off a general laid back feel without feeling too flashy or boastful when on the wrist.

The Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph is one of those rare watches that works for you in all aspects. From solid mechanics, immeasurable good looks, the absence of unnecessary drama to the price bracket it falls under, this watch definitely “asks for little and in return gives you a lot”.

Want to know more about the watch? read the full review here.

2. TAG Heuer Autavia 

The 2017 Baselworld launch of the TAG Heuer Autavia Heuer 02 definitely made a huge impact this year. A watch for the people and chosen by the people, the 2017 version of the 1966 Autavia Ref. 2446 features a three register chronograph that was famously worn by the Formula 1 champion and legend – Joschen Rindt. Apart from its distinctive classic looks, the 42mm stainless steel case features a perfect reverse Panda dial. It is arguably one of the most desirable traits of the watch from a collector’s standpoint.

Designed with three white or lighter coloured chronograph registers placed against a backdrop of a black or darker tone dial, the watch is old-school to the core. Keeping in line with the original watch, the 2017 TAG Heuer Autavia features the novel Heuer and Autavia logo at 12 o’ clock that adds a hint of nostalgia and heritage to the watch.

Adding to the “retro” look of the watch is the “classic” retro bracelet which is solid yet comfortable on the wrist. The TAG Heuer Autavia is a watch, is dedicated to the more traditional watch lovers of the world; the ones who appreciate the history, classic features and vintage design of the watch.

3. Breitling Chronoliner 

Also called the “authentic flight captain’s watch”, the Breitling Chronoliner is one of the most “restrained” dial designs that one could ever expect from Breitling. Featuring only the three white chronograph sub-dials on an almost plain black dial, the setting of the dial is a perfect example of a Vertical Panda dial. Incredibly legible, the three counters are set appropriately at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. The contrast between the white sub-dials against the black background of the dial is simple, authentic and utterly classic. Bringing forward a retro theme with its retro inspired vertical Panda dial, the watch, however, is heavily decorated with contemporary motifs (size, design, fonts and materials used) to be simply defined as a vintage-inspired timepiece.

Nonetheless, one of its most striking qualities is the use of an off-white colour for the sub-dials. One of the first Breitlings to feature a ceramic bezel, the watch defies all expectations one would assume from the brand. As expected from a brand like Breitling, the Chronoliner is powered by a Caliber 24 automatic chronograph movement with a GMT hand module. The watch is available with two bracelet options: the mesh metal “Oceans Classic” that makes the watch look really sharp and their Navitimer bracelet which falls on the expensive side of the bracelet spectrum.

4. Omega Speedmaster Racing 

Another classic timepiece in this list of Panda dials is the legendary Omega Speedmaster Racing. Celebrating the 60^th anniversary of the iconic collection this year, it is but a given that along the way, the collection witnessed an array of Panda dial designs. Here is one such option for you; the Omega Speedmaster Racing Co-Axial Chronograph (ref no. 326.32.40.50.01.002). As is the case with all Speedmasters, this one too takes inspiration from the brand’s “adventurous pioneering spirit”.

It houses a classic black dial that features three standard white sub-dials, as is mostly seen on a Reverse Panda dial. Keeping it simple, there is a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, 30-minute and 12–hour recorders at 3 and 6 o’clock respectively; all three are individually decorated and textured with a “Clous de Paris” pattern.  The presence of the distinctive Panda dial design ensures a high readability ratio, a necessary feature for a racing watch like the Omega Speedmaster.

Like all racing-inspired timepieces, apart from a chronograph function, the Omega Speedmaster also features a matt black aluminium tachymetric ring, and it is powered by the exceptionally accurate Co-Axial Calibre 3330 automatic movement with a 52 hours power reserve.

5. Rado Diamaster 

The Rado Diamaster collection has always been known to redefine contemporary watchmaking while making a statement at the same time. The collection houses watches that are minimalistic, yet exquisitely developed. The Rado Diamaster Ref no. R14070173 is a watch that perfectly represents the definitive characteristics of the collection. The 45mm stainless steel case houses a simple black dial with contrasting yet harmonising silver sub dials placed at 3 and 9 o’clock.

Like we mentioned earlier, while a Panda dial usually features three chronograph registers, this particular watch features only two sub-dials, called a Semi-Panda design. This Semi-Panda dial perfectly encapsulates a contemporary version of the retro, vintage inspired Panda dial. To be put simply, the semi-Panda dial like the one seen on the Rado Diamaster, is an evolution of the classic Panda dial.

Additionally, the Rado Diamaster is powered by a Swiss made automatic chronograph movement, Caliber RC 1, and clocks in a power reserve of 54 hours.

6. Victorinox Chrono Classic

Watches featuring Panda dials are available across the board – from high-end bespoke timepieces to the more accessible and affordable price range. A budget-friendly option that does not compromise on style, design or technical innovation is the Victorinox Chrono Classic. If you understand and love Panda dials but are on a budget then this is the watch you need to buy.

It is an excellent timepiece that features a classic Panda dial. The 41mm stainless steel case features a pristine white dial that houses distinctive black chronograph counters at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. In addition, the watch features a fixed black aluminium bezel with a tachymeter scale that perfectly contrasts the overall silver tone of the steel case and bracelet. Powered by a Swiss quartz movement, the Victorinox Chrono Classic is a timepiece that is absolutely worthy of your time and hard-earned money.

All watches featured in this article are available at Ethos Watch Boutiques.

(Image Courtesy: Hodinkee, Fratellowatches and Abel Court)

(Illustration Courtesy: Teun van Heerebeek)

What are your thoughts on Panda dials? Is it something that you look for in a watch? We would love to know! Let us know in the comments section below.