Round-UpLabour Of Love: The Finest Hand-Winding Timepieces

We love mechanical timepieces. Quartz watches, though efficient, never arouse the same emotions as their mechanical counterparts. The effortless gliding of the seconds hand is sheer poetry in motion. Mechanical watches make for a far richer experience, akin to that of dining at a Michelin star fine-dining restaurant as opposed to eating fast-food take-out. You may pay a lot more for the former, but for good reason.

Even though watches with self-winding movements are more popular than manual-winding watches, true connoisseurs of mechanical watchmaking can truly appreciate the conscious and necessary manual intervention required in order to make a manual-winding watch work. As the name suggests, an automatic watch doesn’t need any physical winding, as it draws energy from the movement of the wearer’s wrist. However, for a gentleman, there is no substitute for the romanticism of an elegant hand-wound watch. Due to the absence of any rotor or oscillating mass, hand-wound watches are significantly thinner than automatic ones and are often more suitable to be worn under the cuff of a full sleeve. There is another advantage with hand-wound watches. The rotor does not obstruct the view of the mechanical movement in case the caseback is transparent. Above all, gentlemen like to take care of their expensive gadgets, and winding a watch once in two or three days is no big deal.

Arnold & Son Eight Day Royal Navy

Reminiscent of the marine chronometers supplied to the British Royal Navy during the 18th century by watchmaker John Arnold and his son, the Eight Day Steel features the brand’s in-house manual-winding movement, A&S1016, which has an oscillation frequency of 21,000vph. Offering exquisite looks coupled with exceptional performance, the calibre can run autonomously for 192 hours or eight days—hence the name of the timepiece—and is visible through an exhibition caseback. Meticulously decorated by Arnold & Son, the movement comes with the Côtes de Genève pattern, and polished edges. Meanwhile, the face of the timepiece is as extravagant to look at as its back. The dial features a wavy sunburst guilloche pattern that moves outwards from the centre and halts just before the minute track placed at the periphery. It also sports a power reserve indicator, a small seconds display and beautifully shaped timekeeping hands and hour indices. Sized at 43mm, the timepiece is offered in a round case with a slim bezel and polished sides. What’s more, the Eight Day Royal Navy is available with an option of a stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp or a hand-stitched leather strap.

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Corum Golden Bridges Miss Rose Gold 

The Corum Golden Bridges Miss Rose Gold is nothing short of an artwork. Its fascinating in-line baguette movement—first introduced in the 1980s—and exquisite tonneau-shaped red gold case with detailed finishing evoke a sense of wonder and awe at the very first glance. Available in three variants, including versions with and without the meticulously placed diamonds on its bezel and lugs, the timepiece exemplifies Corum’s skilful craftsmanship and ingenious engineering. One jewelled version features 90 full-cut diamonds totalling 0.68 carat, in straight lines, only on the bezel. The other has diamonds in different sizes, in a ‘snow’ setting—245 stones totalling 1.28 carats. The movement at the centre of the 21.3mm-wide watches is the calibre CO113—a manual-winding mechanism with a power reserve of 40 hours and a frequency of 28,800vph. The only feature that utilises this suspended movement is the two-hand timekeeping at the centre. Paired with an elegant black alligator leather strap, the timepiece is water-resistant up to 30m.

The Corum Golden Bridges Miss Rose Gold's fascinating in-line baguette movement—first introduced in the 1980s—evoke a sense of wonder and awe at the very first glance

₹48,02,000

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The timepiece is nothing short of an artwork and exemplifies Corum's skilful craftsmanship and ingenious engineering

₹38,62,000

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The movement at the centre of the 21.3mm-wide watches is the calibre CO113—a manual-winding mechanism with a power reserve of 40 hours

₹28,26,000

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Grand Seiko Elegance

Introduced in 2019, the Grand Seiko Elegance is everything that an ideal dress watch can be. It is stylish and presents refined, understated elegance. A hand-wound dress timepiece to its core, the watch offers a flawlessly executed case design, captivating dial, and minute details. Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case, the timekeeper features an off-white dial, which exudes subtle and sophisticated vibes. With a power reserve indicator at three, a running seconds counter at nine, dauphine-shaped hands and highly polished hour indices, the dial is nothing but a feast for your eyes. Powering these features is the in-house calibre 9S63, which includes 33 jewels, beats at a frequency of 28,800vph, and provides a significant power reserve of 72 hours. The movement is carefully hand-finished and can be admired through an exhibition caseback. Attached to a black alligator strap, the Grand Seiko Elegance is a delight to wear and excels in every aspect of fine watchmaking.

Introduced in 2019, the Grand Seiko Elegance is everything that an ideal dress watch can be. It is stylish and presents refined, understated elegance

₹6,70,000

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A hand-wound dress timepiece to its core, the watch offers a flawlessly executed case design, captivating dial, and minute details

₹6,70,000

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Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case, the timekeeper features an off-white dial, which exudes subtle and sophisticated vibes

₹6,70,000

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H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Small Seconds

For those who prefer simplicity and austerity over flamboyance, and minimalism over extravagance, we have the H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Small Seconds. Housed in a 39mm 18-karat gold case, the timepiece takes inspiration from traditional pocket watches and keeps in line with the design aesthetics of the Bauhaus era of the 1920s. Devoid of any additional decorations, the pared-down fumé dial of the watch looks pleasant and vintage, while featuring central hour and minute hands, a small seconds display at six, and the brand’s logo at 12. The Venturer Small Seconds is equipped with the hand-winding calibre HMC 327, which has been completely manufactured and designed in-house and provides a power reserve of three days. On turning the timepiece around, we not only see the nicely decorated movement but also a power reserve indicator and an escapement module attached to the calibre. On the wrist, the watch feels comfortable and exudes charming vibes, owing to its beige leather strap, along with a red gold pin buckle.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Moon

Reverso is undoubtedly one of the most powerful designs of the 20th century. It was born out of a demand for a watch that could sustain impact while on the wrists of British officers playing polo in Rajasthan, in the early 1930s. The case that flips over, hiding the dial and protecting the glass, went on to become one of the most well-known art deco-inspired designs ever created. Jaeger-LeCoultre have experimented with the Reverso ever since it was conceived, both with aesthetics and technology, eventually creating editions with two dial faces, such as this contemporary Reverso Duoface Moon. This watch not only romances the old-world winding of a crown, but also boasts a mesmerising moon phase aperture located at the centre of the date sub-dial at the six o’clock position. The silver, grained dial also features blue-coloured hour indices and timekeeping hands. On the reverse, the second dial in blue presents a nice contrast between the opaline inner part and the Clous de Paris texture on the outer area, with a day-night indicator at six o’clock. The watch is powered by an in-house calibre 853A, which beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and is composed of 223 parts.

Jaeger-LeCoultre have experimented with the Reverso ever since it was conceived, eventually creating editions with two dial faces, such as this contemporary Reverso Duoface Moon

The watch is powered by an in-house calibre 853A, which beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and is composed of 223 parts

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

₹13,40,000

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Nomos Metro 38 Date

The Nomos Metro 38 Date is modestly proportioned, sophisticated, and wonderfully beautiful. Housed in a 38.5mm stainless steel case, the timepiece comes with a clean and minimalistic dial. Featuring a galvanised, white silver-plated surface, the dial looks refined and displays a seconds sub-dial, right above the date aperture at six. Not only this; it also sports blue-coloured hour indices at the three, nine, and 12 o’clock positions. The watch may be utterly cosmopolitan, but it also presents Glashütte’s watchmaking craft at its finest. A glance through the sapphire crystal caseback reveals the movement DUW 4101 with the Nomos Swing system—the in-house escapement now synonymous with the Metro. The height of the movement is just 2.8 mm, and the watch comes with a power reserve of 42 hours.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph

Arguably the most famous chronograph ever created, the Speedmaster enjoys a cult status as it has been part of several lunar missions. The contemporary version of the timepiece doesn’t deviate much from its predecessors and features a slightly thinner case for better comfort and wearability. However, the major update is not in terms of the looks of the watch but what’s inside. Omega have equipped the Speedmaster Moonwatch with a Master Chronometer calibre 3861—a manual-winding movement, which comes with COSC- and METAS-certifications. The latter is awarded to a watch powered by a movement that is already COSC-certified, and then passes eight extra rigorous tests, including one for high magnetic resistance. Featuring all the latest technology, including a co-axial escapement, silicon parts for antimagnetic properties, and a stop-seconds mechanism, the movement runs at a frequency of 21,600vph and provides a minimum power reserve of 50 hours.

Omega Speedmaster

₹7,79,800

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Oris Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111

With a power reserve of a whopping 10 days, the Oris Big Crown ProPilot is a timepiece that not only offers high functionality but also top-notch accuracy and aesthetic finesse. Entirely designed, produced, and assembled by Oris, the manual-winding calibre 111 beats at a frequency of 21,000vph and is visible through the transparent caseback. The dial with a sub-metallic lustre is available in two colours—anthracite and blue. In addition to a non-linear power reserve indicator at three, a small seconds sub-dial and a date window next to it at nine, we have a central, two-hands timekeeping system and large Arabic numerals for the hours. Overall, the design of the dial doesn’t look cramped at all and offers perfect legibility. The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 is housed in a fairly large 44mm case, made of stainless steel with satin finishing, and featuring a coin-edged bezel inspired by jet-engine turbines. Available with a choice of a stainless steel bracelet or a brown-coloured leather strap, this timepiece is a solid, high-quality offering.

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Panerai Radiomir Base Logo 

The Panerai Radiomir Base Logo is a simple and no-fuss tool watch. Powered by the in-house hand-wound mechanical movement, P.6000, the timepiece comes equipped with 19 jewels and stores an impressive power reserve of 72 days. Aesthetically speaking, the 45mm watch features Panerai’s iconic and famous cushion-shaped case, which looks traditional while emanating muscular vibes. The matt-finished dial doesn’t feature any additional complication or decoration, and sticks to the minimalistic theme of the timepiece. What adds to the vintage aesthetic of the Radiomir Base Logo is its two timekeeping hands and hour indices in a cream hue and coated with a generous amount of luminous material. Secured to the wrist with a bright brown leather strap, in addition to the contrasting beige stitching, the watch makes for an attractive package, despite being among Panerai’s more accessible offerings.

The Panerai Radiomir Base Logo is a simple and no-fuss tool watch

₹4,52,200

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Powered by the in-house hand-wound mechanical movement, P.6000, the timepiece comes equipped with 19 jewels and stores an impressive power reserve of 72 days

₹4,52,200

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Aesthetically speaking, the 45mm watch features Panerai’s iconic and famous cushion-shaped case, which looks traditional while emanating muscular vibes

₹4,52,200

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Secured to the wrist with a bright brown leather strap, in addition to the contrasting beige stitching, the watch makes for an attractive package

₹4,52,200

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Parmigiani Kalpa Hebdomadaire

First launched in 1998, the Parmigiani Kalpa has become known for its ergonomic silhouette that makes it super-comfortable to wear. Seen here is the contemporary Hebdomadaire edition, which retains the collection’s tonneau shape, and comes equipped with an advanced mechanism. The timepiece isn’t just about its design or looks. It’s quite a technical marvel, owing to its manual-winding movement featuring two series-mounted barrels, which help it deliver an impressive power reserve of eight days. The movement runs at 21,000vph and is nicely decorated with Côtes de Genève and circular graining. The eight-day power reserve, indicated at 12 o’clock, inspires the name of the watch—Hebdomadaire, which mean ‘weekly’ in French, referring to the approximate frequency of having to wind it. The dial also features a date window below 12 o’clock, and a small seconds counter at, six that strike a perfect visual balance with optimal readability. Presented in a 42.3mm case—built from 18-karat rose gold, and water-resistant to 30m—the timepiece comes fitted with an alligator leather strap.

First launched in 1998, the Parmigiani Kalpa has become known for its ergonomic silhouette that makes it super-comfortable to wear

₹43,00,000

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Seen here is the contemporary Hebdomadaire edition, which retains the collection’s tonneau shape, and comes equipped with an advanced mechanism

₹43,00,000

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The eight-day power reserve, indicated at 12 o’clock, inspires the name of the watch—Hebdomadaire, which mean ‘weekly’ in French

₹43,00,000

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The watch is quite a technical marvel, owing to its manual-winding movement featuring two series-mounted barrels, which help it deliver an impressive power reserve of eight days

₹43,00,000

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