FeatureA Cartier Tank For Everyone: 100 Years And Counting

It’s quite a contradiction that a fine piece of watchmaking, such as the Cartier Tank, was originally inspired by something as rugged and bulky as a military tank. It was the year 1917, when Louis Cartier saw the new Renault tanks being used on the Western Front during the Great War. He designed a prototype of the Tank watch, which was first introduced the next year, and by 1919, the Cartier Tank was in full production.

An Icon Among Watches

The caterpillar tracks of the military tank inspired a design wherein the strap blends seamlessly into the case of the watch, which didn’t change in shape. The parallel lugs, called ‘brancards’, extend to the parallel sides of the case, making for a rectangular or square shape – the most distinctive feature of the Tank collection. In fact, not only is the Tank the most recognisable among all rectangular or square watches, it is arguably one of the most recognisable watches ever designed. Aside from the case, the other unique features of the Tank are its Roman numeral hour markers, the chapter ring on the dial, and the blued steel, sword-shaped Cartier hands. The crown generally features a cabochon sapphire, which is often replaced with a cut diamond in the gem-set versions.

The Various Tanks

Since 1917, there have been countless variations in the Tank series. The Tank Louis Cartier introduced in 1922, was designed by Mr Cartier himself, and reflected an Art Deco inspiration. In 1989, the Tank Américaine was born, ‘at the dawn of a new historical era oriented towards the United States’. The Américaine’s larger size was in keeping with the growing taste for bigger timepieces. The Tank Française, released in 1996, updated the Tank wristwatch with a chain-link bracelet, which was distinctly narrower than the case.

A Tank For Everyone

Steel, gold, leather, complications, varied colours, sizes large and small… Collection Tank is today vast and has something on offer for everyone. It even prides itself with being a collection that is as much for women as it is for men. Several watches in the range are in fact unisex watches. Even some of the most trendsetting personalities such as Lady Diana, Andy Warhol, and Jackie Kennedy have taken to its elegance. Now you can take your pick from one of these five different contemporary Tank timepieces.

The Cartier Tank Solo In Steel

The most basic and most classic, this Tank Solo is the epitome of symmetry. The parallel lines and the balance in this watch are extremely soothing to the eye. The rounded edges of the side pieces ensure that it’ll sit very comfortably on your wrist. Set in steel, the case is 31mm in length and houses an automatic movement. The silvery white dial features the Tank numerals and blued steel hour minute and seconds hands. If you’re looking for a rectangular watch that can literally never go out of style, this is your best bet. This Tank Solo can go with any ensemble, from brunch linens to evening black-tie.

A Black Leather Tank Anglaise

A little more formal, a little more nuanced, this Tank is even a little more generously sized. At a length of 36.2mm, the case is in a dressier white gold, and features the partially concealed crown – a distinctive feature of all Anglaise editions of the Tank. This one is powered by an automatic movement. ‘Cartier’ is elegantly printed on the Roman numeral VII as in other models as well. The silver rectangular dial features a guilloche pattern at the centre, and in addition to the hours, minutes and seconds, it also displays the date in a window at three o’clock.

A Tourbillon Tank: The Tank Américaine

Tank timepieces also feature complications, and this one houses a tourbillon – the most prestigious of them all. The tourbillon cage can be seen prominently in the lower half of the case, and features the Cartier ‘C’, a common feature in several tourbillons offered by the maison. The skeletonised upper layer of the dial reveals a grey guilloche pattern underneath. At the heart of the watch is a manual-winding movement, all of it housed in a rose gold, rectangular case, 35mm in length, with a faceted sapphire on the crown. This timepiece comes with an earthy brown leather strap that goes perfectly with the rose gold. 

The Masculine Cartier Tank MC

‘With the Tank MC watch, Cartier’s iconic design takes on a resolutely masculine edge,’ says the brand, and masculine this watch is. With the timepiece in blue and steel, the sapphire on its crown probably feels right at home on this one. The blue dial and the white hands almost makes it look like a reverse of the typical Cartier Tank dial. Housed in the square case, of size 34.5mm, is an automatic movement that offers a display of hours and minutes at the centre, the date at three o’clock, and small seconds through a sub-dial at six o’clock. This nautical-looking piece is water resistant to 30m.

A Gold Tank: The Tank Française

Finally, an all-gold Tank timepiece, this one comes in a 21mm rectangular, yellow gold case. The diminutive watch is petite and slim, courtesy the quartz movement it houses. Offering a display of hours and minutes, this one would go as well with a skirt-suit as it would with a cocktail dress, making it an ideal day-to-evening companion. This gold Française is certainly a timeless watch – a perfect example of the icon that’ll never go out of style.

Click here to explore all the Cartier Tank watches available at Ethos Watch Boutiques.