Round-UpThe Forever Complication: 10 Exemplary Perpetual Calendar Watches
Meant for telling you the correct date practically for perpetuity, the perpetual calendar is particularly in demand these days, with several brands including it in their complication offerings. Take a look at this handpicked selection of watches with perpetual calendars
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To Start With, What Is A ‘Perpetual Calendar’?
‘Perpetual’ implies forever, and that’s how long a perpetual calendar watch is supposed to tell the correct date without adjustment. However, the revolution of planet Earth around the sun and the Gregorian calendar make things a little too complicated for this complication to handle. So instead of forever, we have to settle for seeing the correct date on our perpetual calendar watches only until March 1, 2100 comes along. That’s not too bad though, is it? The reason for this is the unrounded number of days that the planet takes to go around the sun. It takes 365.2421897 days, but we round that off to 365.25, allowing four quarters of a day to come together and give us a 29th day in February, once every four years, making it a leap year. So a leap year is, in theory, any year that’s perfectly divisible by four. There is still a difference though, and if we were to only have leap years, and no other correction in the calendar (which is how it was before the year 1582), there would be an 11-minute shift in the calendar every year. To tackle that, the centurial years that are not divisible by 400 are exempted from being leap years. The math behind it defined the current Gregorian calendar in 1582, and we’ve been following these leap year rules ever since. Given these rules, the next exceptional non-leap year will be 2100.
Watchmakers have mastered the art of the perpetual calendar to the extent that the watches automatically consider the differing number of days in a month, including the Februaries with 29 days. So far though, it hasn’t been possible to consider the exceptional non-leap years as well. Perpetual calendar watches typically indicate all important calendar details—the date, the day, the month and the year. All these displays aren’t necessary for a watch to qualify as a perpetual calendar watch. In fact, some only indicate the date, while several other complex perpetual calendar watches also include leap year indicators, day-and-night indicators, moon phase displays, and so on. Take a look at both ends of the perpetual calendar spectrum across this selection of watches.
Here are the top 10 best perpetual palendar watches:
- Bovet Dimier Récital 21
- Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
- H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar
- H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
- IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar
- Longines Conquest VHP Chronograph Perpetual Calendar
- Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33
- Tissot T-Classic Tradition Perpetual Calendar
- Seiko Astron SSE170J1
The Bovet Dimier Récital 21
The Dimier collection from Bovet presents some of the more complicated pieces from the maison. Dediated to the Dimier 1738, Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale of the brand, the watches from this series have an inclined construction, featuring a ‘writing slope’ structure, tapering towards six o’clock. The Récital watches within this collection showcase several complications, which include the perpetual calendar of the Récital 21. The main timekeeping remains at the centre of the display, but is minimised, with the running seconds seen at nine o’clock with an open-worked section. One can see that the day is at 12 o’clock, the month at six, and leap year indicated at three o’clock. Surrounding the main timekeeping is a retrograde date display, whose mechanism slows down the indicator when the retrograde jump takes place from the end of the month back to the position of the 1st for the following month. While it is a dramatic little touch that’s interesting to see, this mechanism also helps improve the longevity of its moving parts. And then, in addition to that, the calibre also features a unique corrector, which allows you to adjust all the other displays simply by correcting the date when you use the watch after an extended period. Yet, you wouldn’t need to worry about leaving the watch running on its own for a few days, since the fully synchronised, manual-winding calibre 113DM05-QPR can run autonomously for a huge five days. And the balance power reserve is even indicated on the reverse of the calibre, displayed through the exhibition caseback. The 44.4mm case comes in 18-karat red gold.
The Bovet Dimier Récital 21 in a nutshell
- Case: 18-karat red gold, 44.4mm, with sapphire crystal; water-resistant to 30m
- Functions and display: Hours, minutes, seconds, retrograde date, day, month, leap year
- Movement: Manual-winding calibre 13DM05-QPR; five-day power reserve
- Strap: Leather
The Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
Frederique Constant first launched their in-house automatic perpetual calendar calibre FC-775 in 2016, with the aim of presenting visual harmony on the face of the watch, despite the multiple displays of the complication. In 2021, with the launch of their Highlife collection, this in-house perpetual calendar movement was brought into their modern, archetypal steel sport watch, giving it new life. The Highlife collection presents the evergreen look of an integrated strap, with a very balanced and agreeable design. And with the easy strap interchangeability, you can switch between the default and the complimentary straps that come with the watch. Of course, the perpetual calendar display translates well into Highlife design, with the day and date at nine and three o’clock, the month and leap year at 12 and the moon phases at six o’clock. The dial comes in either white, blue or a sublime blue-grey. All this high-functioning goodness comes in 41mm steel, with one white-dial option offering a combination of steel with gold-plated elements.
The Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture in a nutshell
- Case: Steel or steel and gold, 41mm, with sapphire crystal; water-resistant to 100m
- Functions and display: Hours, minutes, date, day, month, leap year, moon phase
- Movement: Automatic calibre FC-775; 38-hour power reserve
- Strap: Integrated steel or steel and gold, easily interchangeable with leather or rubber options
Take a look at Bovet’s other high-complication watches here
The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar
A 2006 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix winner in the complications category, this ingenious interpretation of the perpetual calendar complication is Moser minimalism at its best. It cuts out all the frills of a conventional perpetual calendar display and showcases only the date at three, which can be adjusted in a flash, and also has an extremely clever month indication. The stunted hand at the centre, with an arrow-head, points to the hour markers that double as month markers. Another perpetual calendar feature is the leap year indicator, which is actually behind the watch, seen through a transparent caseback that also reveals the manual-winding calibre HMC 341. The movement guarantees a whopping seven-day power reserve, indicated at nine o’clock and is completely minimal in appearance, which really helps the gorgeous fumé dial stand out. Available in several hues, the dial seen here is in grey fumé—H. Moser’s signature smoky dial—set in an 18-karat, rose gold case, 40.8mm in diameter, and water-resistant to 30m. The brown alligator leather strap complements the gold.
The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar in a nutshell
- Case: 18-karat rose gold, 40.8mm, with sapphire crystal; water-resistant to 30m
- Functions and display: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, central month, power reserve indicator, leap year
- Movement: Manual-winding calibre HMC 341; seven-day power reserve
- Strap: Leather
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
Another rendition of H. Moser’s award-winning perpetual calendar, this one here is in a Streamliner timepiece, from the brand’s collection of sport watches with integrated bracelets. The Streamliner series has actually carved a very distinctive niche for itself. The watches appeal to a more modern sensibility, but with distinctive links to the art deco era, having drawn inspiration from American Streamliner trains of that period. With elements such as Globolight—a ceramic-based material infused with Super-LumiNova—readability is enhanced in the dark. Unlike the more classical perpetual calendars from Moser, the date aperture is at four o’clock, because that’s the position of the crown in this series. Diametrically opposite, at 10 o’clock, the power reserve indicator is very subtle. Likewise, the stunted month hand at the centre is also rather minimalistic. Even this one has a leap year indicator on the reverse, seen on the manual-winding HMC 812 calibre, through the exhibition caseback. The 42.3mm case of this watch is water-resistant to 120m.
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar in a nutshell
- Case: Steel, 42.3mm, with sapphire crystal; water-resistant to 120m
- Functions and display: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, central month, power reserve indicator, leap year
- Movement: Manual-winding calibre HMC 812; seven-day power reserve
- Strap: Integrated steel
The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
IWC state that ‘no other complication expresses IWC’s values quite as eloquently as the perpetual calendar developed by legendary watchmaker Kurt Klaus in the 1980s’. They refer to Klaus’ innovation of fully synchronising all the perpetual calendar displays, so as to allow one to adjust everything using just the one time-setting crown. The Schaffausen-based brand’s perpetual calendar makes an appearance in practically all their collections, and especially in the Portugieser—one of the brand’s more popular lines. These Portugieser Perpetual Calendar watches here include a gold with a white dial and a white gold with a grey dial featuring a gorgeous sunray finish to add a mesmerising glint and gloss to the face. The nuanced detailing on the dials also includes snailed finishing on the sub-dials and applied 18-karat gold markers to match the 42.4mm case—seen paired with the white dial—and signature leaf-shaped hands. The display itself is very neat and compact. At nine is the day of the week and the small seconds, at three is an analogue date display with the power reserve indicator, at six is the month, while the year is between seven and eight and the moon phase at 12 o’clock. All this runs on the automatic IWC calibre 52610, which offers a staggering power reserve of 168 hours or seven days and can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. Completing both watches are their alligator leather straps—made by Italian leather goods manufacturer Santoni.
The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar in a nutshell
- Case: 18-karat rose gold, 42.4mm, with sapphire crystal; water-resistant to 30m
- Functions and display: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, day, month, year, moon phase, power reserve indicator
- Movement: Automatic calibre 52610; seven-day power reserve
- Strap: Leather
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin perpetual Calendar has been seen in both of Marvel’s Doctor Strange movies starring the brand’s ambassador Benedict Cumberbatch as the titular character. Regarding its presence in Doctor Strange in the Multiverse of Madness (2022), Jaeger-LeCoultre have expressed: ‘the timeless classicism provides [an] emotional anchor in a world of constant change [in the film]’. It presents the dress watch classicism of the Master collection with perfection. And despite the high functionality of the perpetual calendar complication, it remains understated and sophisticated in appearance, especially given its very favourable size of 39mm. The clean, silvery dial presents the moon phase indicator at 12 o’clock, while the date, day and month displays can be seen at three, nine and six o’clock respectively. Also presented is the year, seen between seven and eight. The simplistic dial with a clean layout is actually quite nuanced with its depth—owing to the recessed sub-dials and the faceted indexes and hands. It all creates a very pleasant and luxurious visual. This timepiece is powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic calibre 868—visible through the caseback, with all its decoration, including Geneva stripes, circular graining, as well as satin polishing and bevelling.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar in a nutshell
- Case: Steel, 39mm, with sapphire crystal; water-resistant to 50m
- Functions and display: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, year, moon phase, leap year
- Movement: Automatic calibre 868; 38-hour power reserve
- Strap: Leather
The Longines Conquest VHP Chronograph Perpetual Calendar
Certainly an unconventional perpetual calendar watch, the Longines Conquest VHP is equipped with a ‘very high precision’ (VHP) quartz movement, the calibre L289, which includes a chronograph. While the calendar feature itself is just the date, there is a certain thrill about what seems like a regular chronograph watch whose date doesn’t have to be corrected until the year 2100. The 44mm case in steel is available with or without black PVD treatment. The case hue corresponds to the sub-dial rings—seen here with a grey pattern or in blue—with red accents. Fitted with a blue rubber strap or steel bracelet, this watch is water-resistant to 50m
The Longines Conquest VHP Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in a nutshell
- Case: Steel or steel with black PVD, 42mm; water-resistant to 50m
- Functions and display: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
- Movement: Quartz calibre L289
- Strap: Steel or rubber
The Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33
A fine example of a high-performing analogue-digital timepiece is Omega’s Skywalker—a name quite apt for this futuristic-looking watch with imposing proportions, and sized at 45mm. The titanium case retains elements of the iconic Speedmaster case, such as the ‘twisted’ lugs. The Skywalker is equipped with a thermo-compensated multifunction quartz movement, calibre 5619, which runs a host of functions, including the date. The LCD display can present the time in up to three different time zones, along with the chronograph function, the alarm, and the perpetual calendar displays. The functions also include indications of mission elapsed time (MET)—a time reading used by NASA to time events during their space missions—and phase elapsed time, which is a countdown-timing system for specific events taking place within the MET. These are completely in line with the Omega Speedmaster’s association with space exploration and NASA. All these advanced digital functions can be adjusted and controlled using the four push-pieces around the case, while the analogue timekeeping can be adjusted via the time-setting crown at three o’clock. An add-on is the handy bidirectional-rotating bezel, which serves as a timer to be used in tandem with the analogue central hands. Equipped with a sapphire crystal glass, the case is water-resistant to 30m, and comes affixed with a NATO strap in blue and green, complementing elements of the dial and bezel.
The Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 in a nutshell
- Case: Titanium, 45mm; water-resistant to 30m
- Functions and display: Hours, minutes, seconds, alarm, bidirectional-rotating bezel, chronograph, date, perpetual calendar, with time zones
- Movement: Quartz calibre 5619; 24-hour battery life
- Strap: Nato, polyamide fabric, with titanium buckle
Read about the origins of the Skywalker, among other Speedmaster chronograph watches here
The Seiko Astron SSE170J1
Perhaps the most respected watch manufacturer from outside of Switzerland (more respected than a lot of Swiss makers even), Seiko have been pioneers in various ways, most famously, for having created the first ever quartz wristwatch—the Astron. A descendant of that achievement is this high-functioning timekeeper that is endowed with so many functions, it could make anyone’s head spin. The calibre 8X53 is a GPS solar movement, which means it is synced with satellite time. With a maximum accuracy deviation of up to 15 seconds a month, the calibre’s features include a day/date display, daylight saving time, and dual time. Its flight mode prevents the reception of a GPS signal, and the world timer can show you the time in up to 40 time zones. The solar watch is powered by solar or light energy—fully charging it means that it has stored a reserve of up to six months, and about two years if you’re on power-save (like low-power) mode. The reserve is indicated on the dial as well. And of course, the perpetual calendar feature ensures that the date will not require correction before February 2100. This astounding timepiece comes in a 46.7mm titanium case with gold-coloured treatment and a ceramic unidirectional-rotating time zone bezel. Seiko’s proprietary luminous substance, LumiBrite, helps make things legible on the dial even in the dark. The strap is in silicone with a triple-folding clasp.
The Seiko Astron SSE170J1 in a nutshell
- Case: Titanium with gold-coloured treatment and a ceramic unidirectional-rotating time zone bezel, 46.7mm; water-resistant to 200m
- Functions and display: Overcharge prevention, power save, Perpetual calendar till the February 28, 2100, world time (40 time zones), dual-time, power reserve indicator, time zone adjustment by receiving GPS signals from GPS satellites, automatic time adjustment, satellite acquisition status display, reception result display, DST (daylight saving time), flight mode, automatic hand position alignment, day and date, with hours, minutes and seconds
- Movement: GPS solar calibre 8X53; six months on full-charge, two years on power save
- Strap: Silicone, with three-fold clasp
The Tissot T-Classic Tradition Perpetual Calendar
One of the most accessible analogue perpetual calendar watches you could find, this T-Classic watch is among the dressier timepieces of the Swiss manufacturer. What enhances the watch are the finer details such as the texture on the white dial, and applied faceted indexes. The raised, semi-circular date scale from nine to three, and the recessed month, day and small seconds indicators at 10, two and six o’clock respectively, add nuanced appeal. The 42mm steel case is water-resistant to 30m, and houses an accurate Swiss-made quartz movement. Fitted with a brown leather strap, with an embossed alligator skin pattern, the watch also comes in a gold PVD-treated version, with hands and indices to complement the gold. Alternatively, there is another plain steel version that comes with a black dial and black strap.
The Tissot T-Classic Tradition Perpetual Calendar in a nutshell
- Case: Steel or steel with gold PVD, 42mm, with sapphire crystal; water-resistant to 30m
- Functions and display: Hours, minutes, small seconds, retrograde date, day, month
- Movement: Quartz calibre
- Strap: Leather
Frequently Asked Questions
- What is a perpetual calendar?
A perpetual calendar is a function in a watch that accounts for the different number of days in the months of the year, including February, in all years, including leap years. Most perpetual calendar watches will not require a date correction until the year 2100.
- What is an annual calendar?
An annual calendar in a watch is one that requires date correction only once a year, at the end of February, as March begins. This is because it accounts for the 30- and 31-day months, but not for February’s 28 or 29.
- What are the usual displays in a perpetual calendar watch?
These include the date of the month, the day of the week, the month, the year, often a leap year indicator, and sometimes a moon phase display, in addition to basic timekeeping.
Shop The Story
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin
Q130842J
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Bovet Dimier
R210001
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Frederique Constant Highlife
FC-775N4NH6B
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Frederique Constant Highlife
FC-775V4NH2B
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Frederique Constant Highlife
FC-775BL4NH6B
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H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour
1341-0107
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H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner
6812-1200
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IWC Portugieser
IW503302
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IWC Portugieser
IW503301
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Omega Speedmaster
318.92.45.79.03.001
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Longines Performance
L3.727.2.96.9
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Longines Performance
L3.717.4.66.6
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Seiko Astron
SSE170J1
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Tissot T-Classic
T063.637.16.037.00
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Tissot T-Classic
T063.637.16.057.00
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Tissot T-Classic
T063.637.36.037.00
I am into watches especially mechanical watches, I have just one watch though Casio Edifice 324L-1AV not the most expensive watch.. but am in love with it.. wants to upgrade without burning my wallet. Let me know. I would like to add year, and if possible lunar calendar battery driven is perfect.. not into winding watches since I use ink pen so… That’s says almost a lot about me… Regards John
Hello John,
Thank you for your interest in mechanical watches. We are happy to know that you are keen on upgrading your watch. Our pre-owned watches department might even be interested in purchasing your old watch from you. We have forwarded your email address to them, so they might get in touch with you regarding that. Meanwhile, to know more about the kind of new watches you could consider purchasing for yourself, based on your requirements and budget, we recommend that you call our luxury watch helpline and speak to one of our consultants. The numbers are +91 8725028882 or 8725016301, and the helpline is open between 10:30am and 6:00pm, Monday to Saturday.
Thank you for reading!
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