ReviewThe Mutant Freak: Presenting The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Collection

Every few decades, there comes a revolution in the watch industry that changes the way we view the concept of time. At the start of this millennium, Ulysse Nardin introduced the radical Freak, a watch with no dial, crown or hands. Naturally, it was bold and polarising. Still, regardless of how one felt about the aesthetic of the inside-out watch with parts made from the never-used-before silicon, it cast a deep impression on collectors. More importantly, it shook the very foundation of what was acceptable in the world of haute horlogerie, and paved the way for top-end brands to create their own freakish timepieces. Then, in 2019, the brand brought out another version of the Freak—the Freak X. With the same dial-less and hand-less design as its older sibling, the Freak X featured three striking differences—a winding crown, a smaller, more wearable case, and a much more accessible price point. Just as the first Freak had done, many years before, the Freak X stood out for being ‘different’, making it a statement timepiece that has become bolder and stronger with each new update to the collection.

Arrival Of The Freak: Radical And Revolutionary

Sized at a considerable 45mm, the 2001 Ulysse Nardin Freak, the brainchild of then owner Rolf Schnyder, and watchmaker Dr Ludwig Oechslin, eschewed watchmaking convention. Not only did it have no dial, hands or crown, it also used the material silicon (or silicium in French) in the escapement wheel for its anti-magnetic properties. For this, Ulysse Nardin will forever be the pioneers credited with introducing silicon in a watch movement, a trend that other brands were quick to catch on. And the Freak will go down in watchmaking history as the first timepiece to house a silicon escapement.

So, the Freak was big at 45mm, bold for its flying carousel movement displayed on the dial side, and revolutionary for its crown-less winding system via the caseback, facilitated by a lock at six o’clock on the bezel. This is not to say that the 2001 Freak was perfect. Far from it, in fact. It took many upgrades over the years for the Freak to finally reach the Freak S Nomad status it has attained today.

The Freak was big for its 45mm case size, bold for its flying carousel movement displayed on the dial side, and revolutionary for its crown-less winding system via the caseback

It took many upgrades over the years for the Freak to finally reach the Freak S Nomad status it has attained today

Then Came The Freak X: Cool, Contemporary, Comfortable

Unlike the 45mm Freak, the Freak X is sized at 43mm, making this the most wearable version of the Freak yet. As a matter of fact, for its comfortable size and lower price point, the Freak X is considered a daily-wear version of the Freak. In 2019, the Freak X featured a case made from titanium, which, in itself, was a revolutionary, cool, lightweight and contemporary material back then, even if its popularity has skyrocketed since. This was followed by titanium coated in black PVD, making the Freak X Ti Black extremely versatile, elegant and cool.

Unlike the 45mm Freak, the Freak X is sized at 43mm, making this the most wearable version of the Freak yet

₹28,50,000

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The Freak X featured a case made from titanium, which, in itself, was a revolutionary, cool, lightweight and contemporary material back then

₹28,50,000

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The brand have also used materials like 5N rose gold and aventurine glass for the Freak X, making it a versatile watch for everyday wear

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In 2023, the brand released the Carbonium variant, the Freak X OPS, which took the ‘cool’ quotient up several notches. A carbon composite made from aeronautical by-products, Carbonium is 40 percent more environmentally friendly than other carbon composites. Moreover, its distinct marbling gives the watch a stealth effect, and against a black mainplate and khaki green textile strap, the Freak X OPS goes beyond just being a statement in non-conformity and sustainability.

In 2023, the brand released the Carbonium variant, the Freak X OPS, which took the cool quotient up several notches. A carbon composite made from aeronautical by-products, this Freak X OPS is decorated with distinct marbling that gives the watch a stealth effect

A Less-Freakish Freak: The Mutant Freak X

The addition of a crown on the Freak X meant that the rotating bezel and caseback used to wind the Freak could be avoided. Essentially, this brought down the price of the watch. This also meant that the movement had to be redesigned. The Freak X is powered by the UN-230 calibre, an automatic movement that offers a more-than-decent 72-hour power reserve when fully wound.

The Freak X is powered by the UN-230 calibre, an automatic movement that offers a more-than-decent 72-hour power reserve

₹28,50,000

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The addition of a crown on the Freak X meant that the rotating bezel and caseback used to wind the Freak could be avoided

₹36,20,000

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On the face of the watch, 11 indexes filled with Super-LumiNova dot the periphery, with the brand name and logo at 12 o’clock. The exposed movement—with a flying carousel, and silicon balance wheel and escapement—serve as the ‘dial’. This carousel turns on its axis every hour, and a pointer on the movement’s mainplate serves as the hour hand. A bridge housing the carousel acts as the minute hand. Both ‘hands’ are tipped with pointers filled with Super-LumiNova for easy reading in the dark.

On the face of the watch, eleven indexes filled with Super-LumiNova decorate the periphery, with the brand name and logo at 12 o’clock

A pointer on the movement’s mainplate serves as the hour hand, while a bridge housing the carousel acts as the minutes hand, both tipped with pointers and filled with Super-LumiNova

Ulysse Nardin Freak X SHOP THE COLLECTION

Just as a square watch or an integrated steel sports watch isn’t for everyone, the Freak was also designed to stand out, and not be ignored. It evolved into various other Freaks. While still unconventional, the Freak X is only marginally more mainstream than its older sibling. But with a price tag that’s significantly lower, and in a case size that’s better suited to most wrists, it is no wonder that the Ulysse Nardin Freak X has a significant following among enthusiasts, most of whom put the mutant Freak X on a higher pedestal—or carousel—than the first Freak.