Round-UpLight As A Feather, Yet Stronger Than Steel: Five Amazing Carbon Watches

Primarily driven by age-old traditions and heritage, the watch industry, for the longest time, stayed away from experimenting with exotic materials except for the forever ‘aesthetically pleasing’ substances such as gold and platinum. However, particularly in the last decade, luxury watchmakers have grudgingly or ungrudgingly accepted one fact—the new era of fine watchmaking has no place for just the inherent value or traditional time-telling. It is about innovation, testing and trying new things, alluring watch enthusiasts with the unconventional novelties. It is in this backdrop that carbon has emerged as a symbol of transformation and forward-looking technology in the horological world.  Lighter than titanium, two times stiffer, and five times harder than steel, this unique material is nothing but a miracle substance. What makes carbon highly desired is its ability to attain unique patterns during its manufacturing process, which translates to uniqueness in every case that’s made from it. Essentially, no two timepieces made from are likely to have similar finishes on them—making carbon extremely popular among watch collectors. Not only this, thanks to its natural dark hue, it gives a stealthy look that goes deeper than the surface coating on metals with PVD or DLC treatments. 

Several high-end watch manufacturing brands have acknowledged these properties of carbon and developed their unique ways of using this substance. Audemars Piguet were among the first watch companies to use forged carbon in a special edition Royal Oak Offshore—introduced in 2007. Since then, there has been no turning back, with several others having developed their carbon construction capabilities. Here are five of the finest carbon watches that not only look alluring and mystifying, but are also resilient and durable. 

Zenith Defy Classic Carbon

Weighing a little more than a tennis ball, the Zenith Defy Classic Carbon was the first automatic timepiece to offer both the case and bracelet fully made in carbon. However, weighing even less than that is its variant with a rubber strap. Sized at 41mm, the timepiece is neither too big nor too small for a wrist and features the classic tonneau- or barrel-shaped case, which acts as a canvas for the exquisite camouflage-like pattern imparted by the carbon material. Adding to its visual appeal are the matt and glossy parts that catch light in interesting ways when you move the timepiece from side to side. Just like several other Defy models, the Defy Classic Carbon too features a skeleton dial. Credit to its bold and prominent luminous hands paired with wedge-shaped, ruthenium-plated hour indices, the timepiece has one of the most easily legible open-worked dials out there. Beneath the five-prong star motif is the engine that runs this timepiece—the in-house Elite 670 SK movement that has been a staple in the brand’s repertoire for many years. Host to several finely finished components, including a black-coated star-shaped rotor, the movement runs at the frequency of 28,800vph and offers a minimum power of 50 hours. The Defy Classic Carbon is yet another testament to the fact that Zenith will always strive to push the envelope of creativity, innovation, and craftsmanship when it comes to the art of fine watchmaking. 

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Carbotech Blu Abisso

In line with Panerai’s material innovation is the Carbotech case of the new Submersible QuarantaQuattro. Lighter and stronger than ceramic or titanium, the carbon-based compound, Carbotech, is a first in the use of carbon in watches. Measuring 44mm, and in a deep blue hue, the watch is reminiscent of the ocean depths, and harmonises well with the dark tones of the case. The lume-coated numerals, hour markers and accents on the dial contrast brilliantly against the face of this watch, making it easy for one to read time. Boasting water resistance of 300m, a deep dive into the sea will seem like a cakewalk for this watch. The automatic P.9000 calibre, which has an impressive power reserve of three days, drives the hours, minutes, small seconds and date indication.

Measuring 44mm, and in a deep blue hue, the watch is reminiscent of the ocean depths, and harmonises well with the dark tones of the case

₹17,09,100

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The lume-coated numerals, hour markers and accents on the dial contrast brilliantly against the face of this watch, making it easy for one to read time

₹17,09,100

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The caseback conceals the automatic P.9000 calibre, which has an impressive power reserve of three days

₹17,09,100

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Panerai Luminor Marina Carbotech 

Invented after years of research and development by a team of skilful engineers at Panerai, the Carbotech material is basically a bundle of very thin sheets of carbon fibre compressed together at a high temperature to form one solid, homogeneous material. It is not only lighter than titanium but also more resistant to external stresses with exceptional anti-corrosion properties. First unveiled in 2015, Carbotech has also been used to build this special edition Luminor Marina, released in 2020 to mark the 70th anniversary of Luminor. Presented in a 44mm all-black case, each timepiece offers unique patterns and swirls, along with light and subtle textures. Meanwhile, the black, sun-brushed sandwich dial perfectly complements the case and sports straight lume-filled green hands and hour markers. With a small seconds counter occupying the nine o’clock position and a date window at three o’clock, the dial looks neat and well-balanced. The Luminor Marina Carbotech runs on Panerai’s in-house P.9000 automatic calibre, which consists of 200 components and features elegant yet industrial-looking finishing. It beats at 28,800vph and offers an impressive power reserve of 72 hours. The Luminor Marina Carbotech also comes with blue hands and hour markers, and attached to a rubber strap with blue or white stitching. 

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Titoni Seascoper 600 CarbonTech

With robust, lightweight and scratch-resistant editions made from carbon, Titoni have updated their dive watch series with Seascoper 600 CarbonTech. In strong carbon, these versions have the same functionality as the original from 1979, but with a more modern look. The 42mm carbon case houses a black dial with contrasting white markers and a date window tucked at three o’clock. In addition, the rotating bezel features a ceramic inlay with rainbow, blue, or white accents. The display caseback, inspired by a porthole, reveals the COSC-certified chronometer calibre T10, which provides 72 hours of power reserve. Water-resistant up to 600m, the case comes attached with either a rubber strap or an eco-friendly textile option, produced 100 percent from recycled ocean plastic—an initiative by the brand to reduce the usage of virgin raw materials.

With robust, lightweight and scratch-resistant editions made from carbon, Titoni have updated their dive watch series with Seascoper 600 CarbonTech

Doxa Sub 300 Carbon COSC 

When, last year, Doxa released their iconic Sub 300 in carbon—the timepiece was made in collaboration with the American diving equipment manufacturing company, Aqualung—the brand instantly became the talk of the town. However, many ardent followers of the Swiss watchmaker felt dejected as the Sub 300 Carbon Aqualung Sharkhunter was only a limited edition. Fortunately, in 2021, Doxa have added all-new iterations to the Sub 300 collection, and each one of them is built out of forged carbon. Staying true to the design of the original timepiece, the Sub 300 Carbon presents the brand’s signature barrel-shaped 42.5mm case but in the extremely lightweight and durable carbon. Sitting atop is the quintessential patented Doxa unidirectional-rotating bezel, also executed in forged carbon and featuring the US Navy no-decompression dive table that ensures a safe ascent of a diver by calculating the correct dive duration. It’s no surprise that the timepiece’s dials are offered in several colours, including black (Sharkhunter), navy blue (Caribbean), yellow (Divingstar), turquoise (Aquamarine), and orange. Under the dome-shaped sapphire crystal glass, treated with an anti-reflective coating, the perfectly legible dial sports a three-hand timekeeping system, in addition to the hour indices and a date window at the three o’clock position. Providing energy to the Sub 300 Carbon is the trusted and reliable self-winding ETA 2824 calibre with exceptional performance and flawless precision. This COSC-certified movement beats at a frequency of 28,800vph and offers a 38-hour power reserve. On top of everything, the timepiece comes with a black or coloured rubber strap, accompanied by a safety folding clasp in PVD-coated stainless steel.  

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