Round-UpPresenting Our Favourite Watches Nominated For The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

There are two aspects when it comes to events in the watchmaking industry. The first is the annual fairs—where one witnesses the new launches and novelties rolled out by brands. The second being watch awards—prestigious galas where brands are recognised for their groundbreaking work in terms of design, technical prowess, innovation, inclusivity and sustainability. It’s almost like closing the loop where manufacturers kick-start the year with their grand offerings and by the end of it, can hope to reap the fruits of the labour that goes into producing these fine watches. And while mentioning awards for horological excellence, one certainly can’t miss the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)—often referred to as the watch industry ‘Oscars’, equivalent as they are to Hollywood’s Academy Awards for film. This year, the event is in its 20th edition and it still commands place of pride in the industry as brands vie for the top spots in various categories.

Established in 2001, the GPHG’s main purpose has been to shine the spotlight on and celebrate the most remarkable contemporary creations, and promote watchmaking art on a global level. This way, the organisation is able to uphold and honour the highest standards of Swiss watchmaking traditions. The awards ceremony held in November, every year, forms a hub where the elite representatives gather under one roof to honour the finest creations and stakeholders of the haute horlogerie universe. And the GPHG Academy recently conducted their first round of voting for the 2021 edition, and selected 84 timepieces across 14 categories—that will vie for the 18 prizes, including the coveted ‘Aiguille d’Or’ Grand Prix (‘Best in show’). Here’s a look at a few of our favourite nominees for the 2021 prizes across categories.

Ladies’

Parmigiani Tonda Sélène Rose Gold

Known for their intricate movements that are painstakingly crafted, Parmigiani have garnered a reputation for manufacturing some of the most exquisite watches in the industry. Refined yet understated, the new Tonda reflects every aspiration of the modern woman, who is part of a multicultural and multifaceted society. Available in an 18-karat rose gold case, the watch stands out for its elegant dial, created from mother of pearl. There is also a moon phase indicator at the 12 o’clock position, which carefully balances out the symmetry of the lacework pattern in rose gold, used to make this 36mm timepiece glorious in every sense. The diamond-set bezel further enhances the aura, while it is powered by the manufacture PF 318 automatic calibre with a gold oscillating weight.

Parmigiani Tonda

₹33,60,000

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Men’s 

Louis Erard Excellence La Semaine ‘Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein’

This year marks a new frontier in the collaboration between Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein, with the launch of a triptych. Together, they’ve presented three watches—artworks in their own right that celebrate Alain Silberstein’s artistic approach, as well as Louis Erard’s watchmaking mastery. Each item is limited to 178 models, 78 of which are to be sold in a collector’s box containing the entire capsule as well as a digital artwork signed by the artist. The trio brings together three different timepieces, each with its own unique features: La Semaine, Le Régulateur II, and Le Chrono Monopoussoir. The La Semaine timepiece has been nominated in the ‘men’s watches of the year’ category and stands out for its three hands that are structured in a quirky manner, along with a date-and-day display. Here the days do not have names, but rather playful smileys—small, stylised faces symbolising different moods of the wearer and reminding one of the dynamic nature of time. It is housed in a sturdy titanium case and presented on a black nylon strap.

The La Semaine ‘Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein’ timepiece stands out for its three hands that are structured in a quirky manner, along with a date-and-day display

Here the days do not have names, but rather playful smileys—small, stylised faces symbolising different moods of the wearer while also reminding one of the dynamic nature of time

Louis Erard Excellence

₹3,71,000

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Men’s Complication

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42

The new Premier Heritage collection, launched online, during Watches and Wonder 2021, is for the modern and discerning individual of impeccable taste and comprises the most elegant watches in Breitling’s repertoire. It pays homage to three generations of the brand’s founding family, who refined the chronograph in sync with their times. This version of the Heritage Duograph comes in a 42mm, 18-karat red gold case with a black dial and stands out for it rattrapante function—one of the most elaborate in watchmaking—that enables the wearer to measure two elapsed times simultaneously, thanks to its two superimposed chronograph hands. It is driven by the mechanical hand-wound calibre B15, manufactured and produced in-house.

The Breitling Heritage Duograph comes in a 42mm, 18-karat red gold case with a black dial and stands out for it rattrapante function—one of the most elaborate in watchmaking

It enables the wearer to measure two elapsed times simultaneously, thanks to its two superimposed chronograph hands, and is driven by the in-house, hand-wound calibre B15

Breitling Premier

₹19,06,500

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Men’s Complication

Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer

Unveiled during the digital edition of Geneva Watch Days this month itself, the Octo Roma WorldTimer has already become a hit with the watchmaking community. And it has the features to boot. Apart from offering the world-time function with the 24-hour display with the major 24 time zones, the new timepiece is powered by the brand’s new integrated movement comprising 261 components, developed and produced at their manufacture in Le Sentier, Switzerland. It is defined by its distinct dial layout that features a central display of the hours, minutes and seconds combined with a double rotating disc on the outer edge: one for the 24 reference cities and another with a 24-hour graduated scale. This allows the user to read the time instantly, without any confusion. Also, the fact that all functions are controlled via the crown adds to a hassle-free user experience.

BVLGARI Octo

₹8,76,000

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Iconic

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43

For a brand that’s steeped in aviation timekeeping history, it comes as no surprise that they’ve been nominated in the ‘iconic’ category since Pilot’s watches are synonymous now with their name. The Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is inspired by the design of oversized observation watches of the 1940s, without any additional elements on the dial. This latest edition comes in a 43mm stainless steel case that offers supreme comfort on the wrist. It is powered by the in-house calibre 82100, known for its Pellaton winding system, which has been reinforced with ceramic components, and builds up a power reserve of 60 hours. The model featured here comes with a black dial and is presented on a brown leather strap.

The Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is inspired by the design of oversized observation watches of the 1940s, without any additional elements on the dial

The latest edition comes in a 43mm stainless steel case that offers supreme comfort on the wrist. Seen here, is IWC brand ambassador, British racing driver Lewis Hamilton

IWC Pilot’s Watches

₹8,42,000

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Tourbillon

Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges—Aston Martin Edition

With this watch, Girard-Perregaux aim to offer a bridge to the past, as well as a connection to the future. This means the timepiece employs traditional skills that are upgraded to suit a more modern lifestyle. It is especially important because the 230-year-old brand partnered with British automotive giant Aston Martin, earlier this year, and this is the first watch that represents the association. The watch comes in a 44mm titanium case, and is equipped with the in-house GP09400-1683 movement, which contains a tourbillon mechanism composed of 79 components, weighing only 0.25g. One can also view the stunning yet intricate three bridges also rendered in titanium that cover almost the entire watch face. Presented on a black leather strap, the watch comes with an energy reserve of at least 60 hours.

Girard-Perregaux Bridges

₹1,70,20,000

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Calendar and Astronomy

Arnold & Son Luna Magna

This stunning creation from Arnold & Son, unveiled during the digital edition of Watches and Wonders 2021, showcases their expertise in moon phase watches. While a typical moon phase watch depicts a cut-out disc representing the celestial body, rotating to indicate various lunar phases; Arnold & Son have chosen a different route for this astronomical delight that is housed in an 18-karat, 44mm red gold case. The night sky is represented by aventurine glass on the dial, and at the six o’clock position lies a three-dimensional moon, measuring 12mm—made of marble and aventurine. This is said to be the largest three-dimensional rotating moon ever built into a wristwatch, where the moon emerges from the mainplate of the A&S1021 calibre without upsetting the overall balance of the timepiece. The in-house hand-wound calibre driving this poetic complication operates at 21,600vph, offering a power reserve of 90 hours.

Arnold & Son have chosen a different route for this astronomical delight that is housed in an 18-karat, 44mm red gold case by incorporating a three-dimensional rotating moon on the dial

₹45,50,000

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This poetic complication is driven by the new in-house hand-wound calibre A&S1021, operating at 21,600vph, offering a power reserve of 90 hours

₹45,50,000

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The night sky is represented by aventurine glass on the dial, and at the six o’clock position lies a three-dimensional moon, measuring 12mm—made of marble and aventurine

₹45,50,000

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01

Calendar and Astronomy

Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42

This watch is also part of Breitling’s new Premier Heritage collection that celebrates the brand’s long-standing legacy in churning out exceptional chronographs. Like its 1940s predecessor, the 42mm Premier Heritage Datora also stands out for its highly visible and complex functions, namely its day and date windows at 12 o’clock, and the moon phase window at the six o’clock position. It is powered by the manufacture calibre B25 that can function smoothly for at least 48 hours. This elegant timepiece comes in a 42mm, 18-karat red gold case that frames a galvanic silver-coloured dial, which also features minute and seconds counters at three and nine o’clock respectively.

This watch is also part of Breitling’s new Premier Heritage collection that celebrates the brand’s long-standing legacy in churning out exceptional chronographs

₹23,25,000

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The 42mm Premier Heritage Datora stands out for its highly visible and complex functions, namely its day and date windows at 12 o’clock, and the moon phase indication at six o’clock

₹23,25,000

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The watch comes in an 18-karat red gold case that frames a galvanic silver-coloured dial, which also features minute and seconds counters at three and nine o’clock respectively

₹23,25,000

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01

Chronograph

Angelus U30 Black Tourbillon, Flyback and Split-second Chronograph

In 2019, Angelus launched the U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante—the brand’s first chronograph of this century. Ultralight and ultra-sporty, the design unites a variety of complications: a tourbillon, a flyback function and a split-second chronograph. The 47mm black DLC titanium case with open-worked edges houses one of the most complex automatic skeletonised movements in the world—the A-150 composed of 350 components. The brand have built their modern identity on open-worked pieces integrated into spacious structures that bring the surface area down to the absolute minimum, hence imparting a sense of depth. This is available in a limited-edition of five pieces only.

Ultralight and ultra-sporty, the design of the Angelus U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante unites a variety of complications: a tourbillon, a flyback function and a split-second chronograph

₹64,70,000

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The 47mm black DLC titanium case with open-worked edges houses one of the most complex automatic skeletonised movements in the world—the A-150

₹64,70,000

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The brand have built their modern identity on open-worked pieces integrated into spacious structures that bring the surface area down to the absolute minimum

₹64,70,000

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01

Chronograph

Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40

The Premier Heritage Collection has clearly created quite a stir with each timepiece from its bouquet getting nominated in a different category, this year. The Premier B09 Chronograph 40 was already one of our favourites when it was unveiled during Watches and Wonders 2021, with its refreshing pistachio-green dial. The 40mm chronograph watch is manual-winding, just like its 1940s predecessors, and is driven by Breitling’s in-house calibre B09, which is based on their calibre 01. It can supply energy for an ample 70 hours. The mechanism is housed in a stainless steel case, which enhances the beauty of the dial that features Arabic numerals and vintage-inspired hands, and is presented on a brown leather strap.

The Premier B09 Chronograph 40 stands out for its refreshing pistachio-green dial. and is driven by Breitling’s in-house calibre B09, which provides a generous energy reserve of at least 70 hours

Chronograph

Louis Erard Le Chrono Monopoussoir ‘Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein’

Part of the trilogy presented by the brand this year, the Le Chrono Monopoussoir ‘Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein’ is an all-new chronograph design, executed in the artist’s signature style. It features centrally placed hour and minute hands, with the chronograph seconds hand at the centre and a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock. The watch hands here also steal the show and are instantly recognisable for their playful design. The large blue arrow hand indicates the minutes, a red circle pinned with a triangle is for the hours, a yellow serpentine hand is reserved for the chronograph seconds, and there’s also a small red counter hand. The watch comes in a titanium case and is limited to 178 pieces only.

Chronograph

Zenith Chronomaster Sport

This worthy descendant of the Chronomaster lineage features a sleek, robust and beautifully proportioned steel case measuring 41mm in width, with pump-style pushers. It is driven by the new high-frequency El Primero 3600 calibre offering greater performance and precision than ever. Endowed with the ability to store a 60-hour power reserve, the mechanism and its striking architecture can be admired through the sapphire crystal display back revealing a blue column wheel and open rotor marked with the five-pointed Zenith star. The new Chronomaster Sport is the only watch to feature a 1/10th-of-a-second chronograph display, etched directly on its polished and graduated black ceramic bezel. The black or white dials also stand out for the tri-colour chronograph counters in blue, anthracite and light grey, and the watch is available with either a steel bracelet, or a rubber strap in black or blue.

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Diver’s

Doxa Sub 300 Carbon COSC Aquamarine

Doxa are known for their expertise in dive watches, and last year, they introduced the Sub 300 in carbon. While it remains true to its origins, the watch is lighter and more urban in look and feel. With a diameter of 42.5mm, the carbon Sub 300 features a pressure-resistant titanium casing to protect the movement and a screw-down crown. Its water resistance is rated at 300m, which is equivalent to approximately 980ft. Inside lies the automatic three-hand, COSC-certified movement that guarantees supreme precision with a power reserve of 38 hours. It also features a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass with antireflective treatment: a tribute to its heritage and the curved Plexiglas used for the glass of the very first Sub 300. The watch is available in six colours, of which, the aquamarine looks absolutely cut out for making waves underwater.

Diver’s

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400

Oris have built a significant reputation in the dive watch segment and apart from the precision and reliability offered by their tool watches, these timekeepers are also great value for money. And any list of dive watches would be incomplete without an offering from Oris. With the Aquis Date Calibre 400, the joy of mechanics rises to the surface in a smaller version of the independent brand’s versatile diver’s watch, powered by the game-changing in-house automatic calibre 400. This series sets the new standard in automatic mechanical watchmaking, and is conceived entirely in-house. It stands out for its elevated levels of anti-magnetism and a remarkable five-day power reserve, and comes with a 10-year warranty.

With the Aquis Date Calibre 400, Oris have presented their versatile diver’s watch, powered by the game-changing in-house automatic calibre 400

₹3,50,000

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It stands out for its elevated levels of anti-magnetism and a remarkable five-day power reserve, and comes with a 10-year warranty

₹3,50,000

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This watch series sets the new standard in automatic mechanical watchmaking, and the movement is conceived entirely in-house, and is water-resistant to 300m

₹3,50,000

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01

Challenge

Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph Caribbean

The Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph stands out as a mechanical self-winding chronograph, instantly recognisable by its three counters. It is equipped with an automatic Swiss movement that provides a power reserve of approximately 45 hours. The watch comes in a 45mm stainless steel case with a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass and a unidirectional-rotating bezel, that protect a blue dial, which features a 60-second sub-dial at nine, a 30-minute counter positioned at three, and a 12-hour chronograph counter at the six o’clock position. The Sub 200 C-Graph also features a screw-down crown, and offers water resistance up to 200m, which makes it an ideal companion underwater.

The Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph is a self-winding chronograph, equipped with an automatic Swiss movement that provides a power reserve of approximately 45 hours

The watch comes in a 45mm stainless steel case and the blue dial features a 60-second sub-dial at nine, a 30-minute counter at three, and a 12-hour counter at the six o’clock position