FeatureSustainable Strides: Material Innovation For Eco-Friendly Timepieces
Sustainability is now at the root of all businesses, and the haute horlogerie industry is no exception. While a lot of brands are associated with non-profits, where they donate a portion of sales to environment conservation; there are also many that are implementing best practices when it comes to manufacturing. Here are some brands that are changing the game with sustainable horology at their core
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One of the most searched topics on the internet for 2021 was ‘sustainability’ and Google cited it as reaching a ‘record high’, when compared with previous years. While it’s interesting to note a marked increase in people trying to adopt more eco-friendly practices in their day-to-day living; the idea of making this planet more habitable for future generations has been a topic of debate and discussions for a while now. One cannot deny the impact that global warming is having on the planet with polar ice caps melting and ocean water levels rising. The increased forest fires and erratic rainfall patterns across the globe are also largely due to the impact that climate change is having on everything around us. And while evolution and advancements in technology have helped humans thrive, it all comes at a cost—which is being borne by Earth. While one cannot simply opt out of this system, it’s definitely possible to bring about conscious changes that help in preserving this planet. This is applicable to industries as well, and most big conglomerates have ensured that they are now following strict protocols that are in tandem with reducing their carbon footprint by putting more sustainable practices in place.
The watchmaking industry, too, has been doing its own bit in order to become more eco-friendly. According to a report published by The Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study, conducted between mid-August and early September 2021: Industry executives unilaterally (93 percent) agree that sustainability is an important topic for the industry in 2021 and beyond. The watch industry, like many others, is affected by changing consumer behaviours, media scrutiny and a stricter regulatory landscape necessitating this shift. Approximately three-quarters (72 percent) of watch brands are investing more in sustainability, while 16 percent say they do not yet, but have a desire to do so. Brands are changing their business strategies, taking a hard look at complex supply chains and bringing in external players to audit and certify their efforts. This is giving them the opportunity to create value, explore new opportunities and differentiate themselves in a competitive marketplace. Approximately one-third (32 percent) of brands said that over the next 12 months, they would invest in sustainable product development. This was the top answer, even ahead of new designs (29 percent).
So it’s quite evident that sustainability is going to be the roadmap ahead for watchmakers, even though the haute horlogerie industry, when compared with others industries—such as food processing or even fashion and apparel—is quite low on the waste index, especially since a mechanical timekeeper can work for years, and can even be passed down generations, making it a more sustainable commodity. But brands are trying to make manufacturing even more environment friendly by introducing new materials by recycling the old and upcycling the waste; buying ethically-sourced leather for straps and some even opting for vegan leather to make their products cruelty-free. Let’s look at how they are implementing changes at various levels.
Material Innovation: Recycle, Renew, Reuse
Last year, during the digital edition of Watches And Wonders, Panerai introduced their Submersible eLAB-ID composed of 98.6 percent recycled-based material by weight, and their Luminor Marina eSteel also features a recycled steel alloy. CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué had announced that the brand will create more eco-friendly watches for their business model, going forward. “Over the years, we have developed many calibres and introduced a lot of new materials, and once again we want to highlight that Panerai is a pioneer in the watch industry. We have been in the EcoTitanium business and this new material is made of recycled titanium. It is more respectful of the planet and gives the watch its great lightness,” he explained. “We brought the first LAB-ID five years ago—a revolutionary concept in terms of material, fitted with a calibre with a 50-year guarantee—and this year we bring the second concept called eLAB-ID that includes the highest percentage of recycle-based material in the watch industry,” he said. The Submersible eLAB-ID creates a model for circular watchmaking practices—employing small-scale recycling processes that reuse raw material waste. The 44mm case, dial and bridges are composed of EcoTitanium—a recycled titanium alloy that is a lightweight aerospace-grade metal, composed of more than 80 percent recycled material. This is also the first watch to use 100 percent recycled Super-LumiNova on the dial and hands, and the same percentage of recycled silicon for its movement escapement. In the past also, Panerai had launched the Submersible Mike Horn Edition—a 47mm robust timepiece crafted in EcoTitanium with the strap made from recycled plastic—vouching for the brand’s commitment to helping preserve the oceans and marine life.
In 2020, Ulysse Nardin also turned their efforts towards researching and developing solutions for the growing plastic pollution crisis in our oceans. The watchmaker implemented a dedicated research unit to studying materials from the sea, particularly the characteristics of oyster shells, algae, marine PET (plastic bottles) and polyamide fishing nets. And they introduced the R-Strap—made from recycled fishing nets. This strap was used for their Diver Net—a concept watch in which each trim element has been designed to be as environmentally friendly as possible.
Repurposing For A Cause
One thing is evident, most watch brands’ sustainability efforts are targeted at preserving the oceans—which cover 70 percent of the earth’s surface, and are being polluted by seven million tonnes of plastic dumped into their waters, each year. In one such initiative, Oris, announced last August that they had become climate neutral. The brand had been working towards this for years with its ‘Change for the Better’ campaign, part of which has involved raising funds and awareness for some of the world’s most pioneering ocean conservation agencies. They have been able to offset and reduce their carbon emissions across their businesses—which has become fundamental to their watchmaking ethos. To mark the start of this new chapter, Oris introduced the Aquis Date Upcycle, another adaptation of their high-performance diver’s watch with a colourful dial made of recycled PET plastic. The Aquis Date Upcycle is available with either a 41.5mm or 36.5mm case, both with recycled ocean-plastic dials. Each watch is unique because the plastic recycling process produces random patterns, meaning no two dials will be the same. The production of these watches is not limited, and Oris will keep making them for as long as there’s demand.
Another brand committed to this cause are Carl F. Bucherer, who have been associated with the Manta Trust—a non-profit organisation that supports the conservation of manta rays and their marine ecosystem. This partnership, since 2013, has produced some remarkable timepieces, sales of which have been diverted towards this cause. However, last year, the brand launched their new dive timer—the Patravi ScubaTec Maldives—a watch crafted using ethically sourced steel, and recycled material from ocean waste. It comes in a 44.6mm stainless steel case, topped by a unidirectional rotating steel bezel with blue and white ceramic inlays. It also stands out for its bright, blue dial. On reversing the watch, one can see the solid stainless steel caseback, decorated with a motif featuring two manta rays. It is secured onto the wrist by an eco-friendly blue strap made of natural rubber, while its fabric insert is made 100 percent from recycled plastic bottles recovered from the Mediterranean Sea.
And talking about straps made from recycled waste, Breitling have been pioneering this space for a while now. In 2017, they redesigned their Superocean Heritage line to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the brand’s legendary diver’s watch that was created for professional deep-sea divers. One timepiece that stood out was the Superocean Heritage Chronograph 44 Outerknown that celebrates Breitling’s partnership with sustainable apparel manufacturer Outerknown, co-founded by surfing legend Kelly Slater. The watch features a single-piece strap crafted from ECONYL—a patented yarn that’s made from nylon waste such as fishing nets. It comes in a 44mm, black DLC-coated stainless steel case with a deep blue dial that displays chronograph counters at six, nine and 12 o’clock. There’s another 42mm version in brown—the Superocean Heritage ’57 Outerknown, which is paired with a brown Outerknown single-piece strap crafted from the same yarn.
A Vision For A Better Ecosystem
There are also many brands that are starting right at the manufacturing level, and their processes. IWC have pledged their support to sustainability right from reducing carbon emissions, and paper and plastic being used at their manufacture, to recycling gold, and developing sustainable new materials. Last year, they unveiled new TimberTex straps, made from a low-impact paper-based material. This pioneering creation is the result of in-depth research and development and reflects IWC’s ongoing commitment to innovation and responsible watchmaking. Luxurious in look and feel, the TimberTex straps have a soft and supple texture, and unlike synthetic leathers, which are often plastic or petroleum-based, the material is 80-percent natural plant fibre. The cellulose used comes from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)-certified trees grown in the non-profit organisation’s sustainably and responsibly managed European forests. It is then manufactured in Italy, using traditional papermaking techniques and coloured with natural plant-based dyes. The material’s irregular grain makes every strap unique, available in blue, brown and black. These straps currently complement four models: the Portugieser Chronograph, Portugieser Automatic 40, Portofino Automatic and Portofino Chronograph.
Even Raymond Weil have introduced eco-friendly straps in their arsenal, as seen in their Maestro The Beatles ‘Let it be’ Limited Edition—the fourth instalment in the series, launched last year. Keeping in line with its previous iteration—Maestro The Beatles ‘Sgt Pepper’s’ Edition, this version, too, is presented on a light brown strap, made from a polyurethane material with FSC-certified vegan leather.
German watchmaker, Nomos is another firm that has sought to reduce its carbon footprint by centring as much of its production as possible at its tailor-made Glashütte factory. In 2015, their Metro Date Power Reserve model won the Green Product Award, honouring the brand’s efforts towards generating a more environment-friendly business model. The Green Product Award recognises products that combine the best design, innovative technology, and sustainable manufacturing; products that are designed and manufactured today for a better tomorrow. This explains their minimalism ideology and why less is always more.
Even brands that have always been guided by design principles have chosen the sustainability route. In 2018, Baume & Mercier introduced their project Baume—aimed to instil a breath of fresh air to traditional watchmaking based on minimalistic design, respect for the environment, and the full personalisation of watches. Since its creation, the collection has been driven by its commitment to design and social responsibility, namely through partnerships with Waste Free Oceans, Digital For The Planet, WREN and other noteworthy causes. The innovative materials used in these timepieces also enter into the circular economy, thereby allowing the brand to sustain its own future developments. One such initiative is also the introduction of straps crafted in natural, upcycled or recycled materials, and they are interchangeable thanks to a system using recycled buttons.
The luxury watch industry is fairly sustainable when compared with many other businesses since it produces products that are timeless, and can even be resold in the second-hand market. However, exploiting new materials for crafting new watches is what poses a serious threat to the industry and the limited resources on this planet. Therefore brands have no option but to look for solutions within and start planning for a better, healthier and a more sustainable future. It’s high time.
Shop The Story
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Panerai Submersible
PAM00984
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Oris Aquis
01 733 7770 4150-Set
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Carl F. Bucherer Patravi
00.10632.23.53.02
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Breitling Superocean Heritage
A103703A1Q1W1
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Nomos Glashutte Metro
1101
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Raymond Weil Maestro
2215-STC-BEAT4
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Baume & Mercier Baume
MOA10601
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Baume & Mercier Baume
MOA10602
