Round-UpWatches And Wonders 2022: Highlights Of The Finest New Timepieces Unveiled
As the largest watch fair of the year draws to a close, we’re taking stock of all that was unveiled—the advancements, the innovations, the new versions, the updates et al. Here are the best new releases from Watches and Wonders 2022 that are making a mark and taking their brands’ stories forward
May We Recommend
Angelus Chronodate
Although the latest version of the Angelus Chronodate doesn’t come with the famous triple-calendar feature of the original—first released in 1942—it’s equipped with peerless technology and offers a contemporary look. Available in titanium or 18-karat rose gold, the timepiece measures 42mm and has a muscular design with carbon composite chronograph pushers and a fairly large crown with a contrasting rubber ring. As for the display, the titanium version is offered with a dial in either a blue or opaline grey, while the rose gold iteration only comes with a blue dial. Regardless of the colour, each display features frosted PVD coating along with a sloped black minute track and the signature date ring on the periphery. The oversized hour indices and timekeeping hands have been coated with Super-LumiNova, making for perfect legibility even in low-light conditions. Under the hood, we have the automatic calibre A500, which is based on the well-known Valjoux 7750. It runs at a frequency of 28,800vph and is capable of storing a power reserve of up to 60 hours. Owing to the transparent caseback, one gets to admire the movement, which is attached to a rotor that has been shaped like the brand’s logo. To elevate the sporty looks of the timepiece, Angelus have paired it with a sailcloth strap that comes with a rubber lining.
Armin Strom Orbit
Armin Strom might be just over a decade old, but they have mastered the art of building quirky yet technically sophisticated timepieces. The latest Orbit model is one such watch and it perfectly exemplifies the brand’s skilful craftsmanship and boundless creativity. Offered in a 43.4mm case, the timepiece completely reinterprets the date function by placing it on the bezel and using a central date hand, which can be engaged and disengaged by pressing a button located at 10 o’clock. When disengaged, the date points towards 12 o’clock. However, when the wearer pushes the button, the date hand becomes active and points to the current date on the bezel. Presented in stainless steel case, the Orbit features an offset dial in black gold that consists of SuperLumi-Nova-coated timekeeping hands and hour markers. There is also a small snailed sub-dial that shows the running seconds. All these attributes are powered by the Armin Strom ASS20, which uses an equal-force mechanism to ensure consistent power to the balance, with a power reserve of 72 hours. Fashioned with an integrated stainless steel bracelet, the Orbit should be a delight to wear.
Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon
Known for their stunning moon phase displays and decorative tourbillon timepieces, Arnold & Son have introduced an ultrathin tourbillon in two new versions: red gold and platinum. They feature a new type of dial with tinted gold and aluminium sparkles to match their cases in precious materials, which have also been redesigned to look slimmer, and measure just 8.3mm in thickness. The bezel has also been reduced to a fine metal band, the sapphire crystals are domed, and the transparent casebacks have been screwed down. The models come in a 41.5mm red gold or platinum case with a blue or green dial that feature an offset mother-of-pearl time display disc at 12 o’clock and the tourbillon aperture at the six o’clock position. Arnold & Son have used a new manufacturing technique known as ‘Cosmic Grené’ on the dials, where gold powder mixed with aluminium sparkles has been placed on the dial plate to create a lightly sandblasted surface. This is then coloured: blue for the Ultrathin Tourbillon in red gold, and green for the platinum version. Due to the complex manufacturing methods involved, these dials are finely textured and impart a subtle lustre. The watch is powered by the A&S8300 calibre, whose architecture complements the ultrathin design of this timepiece. At just 2.97mm thick, this tourbillon with extremely refined finishes is one of the slimmest ever, designed by the brand. The highest point of the A&S8300 calibre is located on the top of the tourbillon carriage, which has also been redesigned and has undergone significant changes in relation to its predecessors. It features a variable-inertia balance with inertia blocks to ensure more stable calibration over time. Modifications to the tourbillon carriage and regulating organ have increased the power reserve, which now lasts at least 100 hours.
Baume & Mercier Hampton
Named after the Hamptons—America’s seaside towns in Long Island, where several affluent New Yorkers summer—the rectangular Hampton watches celebrate the leisurely and laidback lifestyle associated with the American getaway destination. Last year, Baume & Mercier updated the Hampton series with new editions featuring refinement, but with the same unmistakable charm that the collection has always been known for. With smooth surfaces and clean lines, the 2022 editions expand on last year’s updates. The freshest look of the latest Hamptons is undoubtedly that of the versions with the Milanese bracelets—a first for the collection. The slinky mesh bracelet pairs excellently with the rectangular case, sized at 43mm by 27.5mm, and looks like the combination has always been around. The watch comes either with an automatic movement offering three-hand timekeeping and a power reserve of 38 hours or with a quartz movement presenting two-hand timekeeping. While the former has a silvery dial and an exhibition caseback, and the latter has a blue dial, both versions have elegant details across, including applied markers and sword-shaped hands.
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Skeleton Ice Blue
Such is the popularity of Czapek’s Antarctique Rattrapante that when it was first launched last year in August, all the 77 units of the timepiece were sold out almost instantly. Buoyed by the success, the watchmakers have now released a brand-new iteration of the watch with some significant updates on the dial. Recognised for its alluring, open-worked display that showcases the chronograph mechanism in its upper half and the split-second mechanism in its lower half, the timepiece now features a smoked blue sapphire crystal minutes ring and counters made with PVD. The dial also features blue sword-shaped timekeeping hands along with a red split-seconds hand. Executed to perfection, the Antarctique Rattrapante is presented in a 42.3mm stainless steel case, which is paired with an ergonomically designed integrated bracelet that just enhances the wearability of the watch. Beating inside is the calibre SXH6 that runs at 28,800vph and offers an impressive power reserve of 60 hours. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal of the caseback.
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon
What makes the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon a fascinating timepiece is the fact that the watchmakers have successfully combined a constant-force mechanism—which provides the escapement with a consistent flow of power, regardless of how wound or unwound the mainspring is—and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. This provides a host of practical benefits, including no loss or change in the torque, and an increase of power reserve of up to 50 hours, in addition to better accuracy and performance. Apart from the technical aspect, the calibre 9STL offers a dazzling visual effect that can be seen through the skeleton dial and one can hear the sounds of the escapement and the once-per-second impulse of the constant-force mechanism. Grand Seiko have housed the watch in a 43.8mm case made from 950 platinum and ‘brilliant hard’ titanium, which is as light as pure titanium and twice as hard as stainless steel and therefore highly resistant to scratches. The Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon is secured to the wrist with the help of a calf strap that has been treated in the same way that the high-durability material used in Samurai armour was handled in the past.
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
While H. Moser & Cie. are known for their fumé dials with beautiful gradients, it’s not often that one sees a skeleton timepiece from the brand. This year, they’ve launched the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton, featuring an off-centre time display at 12 o’clock and the tourbillon at six o’clock. Moser have chosen the contemporary Pioneer case for showcasing the traditional art of skeletonisation that reveals the HMC 811 manufacture calibre. This large, fully skeletonised movement with a 34mm diameter features a one-minute flying tourbillon, equipped with a cylindrical hairspring, due to which friction on the pivots is reduced and the isochronal properties improved. The sub-dial at 12 o’clock reflects the curve of the sapphire crystal and comes in Moser’s signature fumé colour—Funky Blue. The indices here are bold and created using Globolight—a ceramic-based material containing Super-LumiNova. While the entire mechanism is on display both in the front and back, on turning over the watch, one can also see a skeletonised gold rotor—in sync with the watch’s overall design aesthetics. Water-resistant to 120m, the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton is presented on a black alligator leather strap, but can also be worn with a steel, rubber or textile strap, thus providing a variety of options.
Hublot Square Bang Unico
Hublot never cease to amaze. Following their philosophy of crafting unconventional and completely unique timepieces, the watch brand have now introduced their iconic Big Bang watch in a never-seen-before square-shaped case. Sized at 42mm, the Square Bang Unico is available in different materials, such as titanium, black ceramic or the brand’s ‘King Gold’ and features the collection’s signature bezel screws that have been polished and sandblasted. Thanks to the intricately designed open-worked dial, the viewer gets to admire the well-known automatic calibre HUB1280 Unico, which offers a flyback chronograph function and a power reserve of up to three days. What’s more, Hublot have built an all-new rubber strap that features a waffle pattern. The strap can easily be interchanged with alternatives, owing to the brand’s signature quick-change system.
IWC Top Gun Chronographs (Woodland And Lake Tahoe Editions)
IWC unveiled two new Top Gun chronographs in coloured ceramic in the Pilot’s Watches family at this year’s edition of Watches and Wonders. The two editions—Lake Tahoe in white ceramic, and Woodland in olive green ceramic—will be limited to 1000 pieces each. These two editions take on from the 2019 launch—the Mojave Desert edition, which was the first Top Gun model in sand-coloured ceramic. These new chronographs highlight IWC’s longstanding and extensive experience in the fields of in-house chronographs and advanced materials. The white and green ceramic used for the cases also illustrate the current evolution of Top Gun collection, which was primarily focused on performance to a more bold style statement, since the colour of uniforms and the fascinating landscapes admired by pilots have inspired these two new chronographs. The Lake Tahoe edition features a 44.5mm white ceramic case, a pitch-black dial, and black hands coated with luminescent material. The pushers and crown are made of stainless steel and the caseback of titanium. The matching white rubber strap with a distinctive embossing accentuates the eye-catching design. For the Woodland edition, IWC have used the newly developed green ceramic material for the case and the dial, while the numerals and hour markers are printed in a lighter hue. The pushers and the caseback are made of matt black Ceratanium—an in-house material that combines the lightness and structural integrity of titanium with a hardness and scratch-resistance similar to ceramic. A matching green rubber strap with textile inlay completes the design. Both timepieces are powered by the manufacture 69380 calibre, a robust and reliable chronograph movement with a column-wheel design. In addition, they feature soft iron inner cases to protect their movements from the effects of magnetic fields.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Atomium And Galaxia
Here’s a high-complication watch that’s truly out of this world. With mastery over sidereal time—which is used to track the apparent movement of constellations around the sky as we see it—Jaeger-LeCoultre were able to create the highly advanced calibre 945, which was first launched in 2010. Unveiled as an updated version for the Master Hybris Artistica, at Watches and Wonders 2022, this movement combines some baffling high-end complications that you don’t come across every day. The result is a display of the sky chart that depicts the constellations themselves and a zodiacal calendar. And along with these celestial indicators, there’s also a ‘celestial’ flying tourbillon—Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Cosmotourbillon that traverses around the dial, in tandem with the sky chart’s rotation, depicting sidereal time. It’s a sight to behold indeed, and so very fascinating, if you consider all the astronomical activities of the stars in galaxies across the universe. To top this bewildering presentation of time-defining phenomena, this exquisite timepiece also includes a minute repeater, whose gongs you can see on the reverse through the transparent caseback in sapphire crystal. The dial is hand-painted using the grisaille enamel technique with intricate perfection to depict the sky. It’s done in black with grey hues in the Galaxia version’s pink gold case, and in blue hues in the Atomium’s white gold case. While both are sized at 45mm, the latter features a gorgeous silver, laser-welded structure around the central portion of the dial. Limited to five pieces—each version—this watch is a real masterpiece if there ever was one!
Louis Moinet Atronef
Known for their highly complex watches with a distinct avant-garde DNA, Louis Moinet presented the Astronef—an exclusive creation, where only eight pieces of this model will be produced by the atelier. The dial stands out and is made from a plate measuring a total 0.6mm thick, from which 0.2mm is then hollowed out to reveal the numerals and a rack, in order to create a depth effect for the readings. The deep-black DLC treatment creates a striking contrast with the rhodium plating and endows it with a two-tone hue. A circular satin-brushed finish is applied to complete the design codes for the watch face. This is framed by an 18-karat gold case with open-worked lugs and case middle. The watch showcases two tourbillons rotating in opposite directions at high speed. They cross paths 18 times per hour (every three minutes and 20 seconds), and are built on two different levels. This calibre LM105 beats at a frequency of 21,600vph and supplies a power reserve of 48 hours. The design is linked to the complexity of the mechanism and is marked by its control tower—the central column—which propels the tourbillons and hands. It is composed of 471 components, and contains two barrels—one for each tourbillon. The Astronef is presented on a black leather strap that enhances the elegance of its gold case.
Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400
In 2020, Oris set a new standard in mechanical timekeeping, with the release of their advanced in-house calibre 400, which offered enhanced anti-magnetism, a five-day power reserve, and a 10-year warranty, which also allowed them to recommend service intervals of 10 years. First launched with their bestselling watch, the Aquis Date, the Holstein-based manufacturers introduced this ‘new standard’ in other models as well—including a wider range of Aquises. While there have been other calibres in the 400 series with the same advanced features of the first one, it was only natural for the brand to continue to expand their offering of calibre 400 itself into other collections and flagships. This time, it’s the ProPilot’s turn. The ProPilot X, which was first introduced in 2019, initially came with a skeletonised dial, a finely-fluted bezel inspired by plane engine turbines, and a somewhat integrated case-and-bracelet design in titanium. A plain version with a closed dial would be a natural extension of the series, and it seems like just the right time to release such versions, powered by the calibre 400. So at this year’s Watches and Wonders, they’ve given us three plain, time-and-date versions of the ProPilot X—in blue, in pink and in plain grey, which matches with the titanium exterior, making for a sublime monochromatic look. These watches are sized at 39mm.
Panerai QuarantaQuattro 44mm
The new Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro comes in a 44mm case, joining the existing 47mm and 42mm versions. All the essential features that are hallmarks of the Submersible family exist in the QuarantaQuattro: it is water-resistant up to 300m, and features the patented crown-protecting device. In addition, a unidirectional rotating bezel to measure submersion time and metallic appliques filled with white Super-LumiNova make the watch a perfect diving companion. There are three versions available, each with individual pairings of colours and materials. The first is Submersible QuarantaQuattro Carbotech Blu Abisso, which comes in a case made of carbotech—a carbon fibre composite, which is lighter than titanium, and has a high resistance to corrosion. Its inherent variegated black colouring ensures that no two cases will be identical, and a titanium DLC crown in a similar black hue harmonises with the case construction. It comes in a blue dial with a matching blue recycled rubber strap. The second version of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro comes with a steel case and a black dial paired with a matching, recycled rubber strap. The third rendition is the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco with a steel case and a brilliant white dial, presented on a military green recycled rubber strap. The Submersible QuarantaQuattro watches are also offered in Panerai’s patented eSteel, which recognises and reinforces the brand’s commitment towards sustainability. Here, 72gm of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is made of recycled materials, corresponding to 52 percent of the total weight of the watch (137gm). There are three versions here as well—blue, grey and green—where the dial and bezel match in colour, and they are mounted on recycled fabric straps, also in the same hue corresponding to their respective dials. All QuarantaQuattro timepieces are driven by the P.900 calibre that features a seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock, and supplies a three-day power reserve while beating at a frequency on 28,800vph.
Parmigiani Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon
One of two terrific new watches by Parmigiani that celebrate simplicity with understated intricacies, this Tonda PF features a flying tourbillon, in a very minimalistic presentation, just like the GMT Rattrapante, also unveiled during Watches and Wonders. Yet, this Flying Tourbillon is not without the decoration that Parmigiani are known to showcase, as it features bevelled markers and a very finely knurled bezel, among other intricate finishing that one sees across the watch. This largely monochromatic timepiece comes with a pale grey, almost grainy dial that matches the 42mm sandblasted case fully in 950 platinum. The PF517 automatic movement running the time, and flying tourbillon cage that is interestingly placed at seven o’clock, also features a micro-rotor in platinum, which helps the watch store a power reserve of up to 48 hours. Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the oscillating mass features Parmigiani’s signature barleycorn pattern, and is complemented by other decoration on the movement, including bevelling, circular graining and Geneva stripes. This luxurious timepiece is limited to 25 pieces—signifying the 25th anniversary of the brand.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph
Following from last year’s updated Aquaracer, TAG Heuer have released a number of new editions of various models within the collection, including this year’s Superdiver—a professional dive watch water-resistant to a whopping 1,000m. As impressive as that is, the standout timepiece among the brand’s new timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2022 was the Solargraph. Water-resistant to a far more modest 200m, this watch is being presented as one for the great outdoors. As the name suggests, it runs on solar energy. So it’s basically a quartz watch that doesn’t require a battery. While solar-powered watches aren’t a new concept, this one is TAG Heuer’s first one, and it’s quite splendid for various reasons. Firstly, the solar panels are just underneath the dial, arranged in a sliced-pie, circular format, but they remain concealed by the Aquaracer’s signature striped pattern on the translucent dial, which allows them to be exposed to light. The light can be from the sun or even from an artificial source. It requires only two minutes in full sunlight for the movement to keep running throughout the day, and when fully charged—after less than 20 hours in the sun—it can run for six whole months! And when the watch stops, just 10 seconds in the light can make it start again. This is thanks to the calibre TH50-00, produced by La Joux-Perret, which uses the Eco-Drive solar dial technology ‘for the first time in Switzerland’, as TAG Heuer claim. The ingenious use of the technology, in terms of the design, is complemented by the carbon bezel, with swirls of Super-LumiNova—in addition to the luminous substance being on the markers of the 60-minute timer. This is a clever extension of what light does for the watch, as it makes the bezel glow in more ways than one, in addition to there being luminous markers on the dial. Displaying the time and the date, this watch comes in a 40mm case in black DLC-treated, sandblasted steel, paired with a black rubber strap.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport And Open
Since 2019, Zenith have been celebrating their strong legacy as pioneers of the modern-day chronograph. That year marked the 50th anniversary of their El Primero movement, which was the first ever automatic, integrated, high-frequency chronograph calibre that could measure 1/10th of a second. And for the last three years, Zenith have been introducing re-editions of their iconic chronographs from that era. Last year, they expanded their focus by introducing the Chronomaster Sport—a modern sport watch that put the 1/10th-of-a-second feature of the chronograph front and centre, with the central chronograph hand indicating this via a scale on the bezel. This much-needed modern update to their Chronomaster collection was introduced in steel, but at this year’s Watches and Wonders, Zenith have presented new editions in 18-karat gold—with a dial in black or white—and one in steel and gold, with a silvery dial. Like last year’s Chronomaster Sport, these 41mm watches also have Zenith’s signature overlapping sub-dials in three different hues. But unlike the plain steel versions—which had ceramic bezels—these ones have bezels in gold, with the 1/10th-of-a-second scale. On the Chronomaster Open edition, also unveiled at the fair, the 1/10th scale has been shifted to the inner flange of the dial. Another much-needed update, this brand signature with a partially open-worked dial comes with the 1/10th central chronograph for the first time. And it’s been released in steel, with a black or white dial, featuring overlapping sub-dials, as well as in gold with a blue strap.
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H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer
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