ReviewThe Iconic Angelus Chronodate: A Modern Date With The Past

Originally founded in 1891 at Le Locle, Swiss watchmaker Angelus have developed pioneering multi-complication wristwatches such as the 1942 Chronodato—the world’s first wristwatch chronograph with calendar. Over the years, the brand have garnered numerous awards, such as the gold medal at the International Exposition in Liège, the Grand Diplôme d’Honneur at Milan, and more. Making a comeback after 80 years into the brand’s modern arsenal is the Chronodate, available in various iterations featuring skeletonised movements and tourbillons.

The Magic Of Titanium

The design of the new Chronodates combine the decorated Angelus legacy with futuristic watchmaking techniques. Among the 2022 Chronodate launches, the initial series was a 25-piece limited edition in titanium and red gold versions, and then in grey and blue hues. This was followed by three new non-limited versions of this ‘neo-retro chronograph’ in combinations of fern green or black with titanium and black with red gold. “We are playing with materials with these three new Chronodates,” Bertrand Savary, CEO, Angelus and sister brand Arnold & Son, was quoted saying. “There is a carbon case with titanium. We have a green in this, which is a new colour.”

Grade 5 titanium, as demonstrated in this Angelus Chronodate Titanium Green Titanium, is a high-strength alloy when polished achieves brilliant shine as demonstrated with the chamfers

The Chronodate Titanium Black Titanium features Arabic numerals for hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and peripheral date in gold hue

The Grade 5 titanium, as demonstrated in the Angelus Chronodate Titanium Green Titanium, is a high-strength alloy when polished achieves a brilliant shine as demonstrated with the chamfers. This material is lightweight, corrosion-resistant, sturdy, and hypoallergenic. Despite significant production time and costs required to mill this titanium case, the benefits justify the extended creation and expense.

The Angelus Chronodate Titanium Blue feature sub-dials in a slightly darker blue than the dial and timekeeping elements in contrasting hues like the outer minute track

The Angelus Chronodate Gold features frosted PVD coating along with a sloped black minute track and the signature date ring on the periphery

Angelus Chronodate Shop The Collection

Launched at Geneva Watch Days 2023, the latest Chronodate Titanium Storm Blue Titanium edition features a light frosty blue dial in this sporty stainless steel iteration. The previous iterations Angelus Chronodate Titanium Blue and Angelus Chronodate Gold featured slightly darker blue dials. While Titanium Blue iteration offers the classic blue and silver combo, the Chronodate Gold provides a slightly unique combo with red gold and blue. Regardless of the colour, each display features frosted PVD coating along with a sloped black minute track and the signature date ring on the periphery.

The Angelus Chronodate Titanium White opaline grey dial version features a frosted centre, black DLC applied details with white Super-LumiNova coating that emits a blue glow. Next to the flange is the black minute outer track. Positioned below the 12 o’clock hour marker is the rhodium-plated applied logo. The Angelus Chronodate Titanium Salmon version fascinates for its shimmery dial and glossy snailed counters, combined with contrasting dark blue flange, sub-dial outlines, minute and calendar markings, and brand logo. The Chronodate Titanium Black Titanium features Arabic numerals for hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph and peripheral date in gold hue.

Classic Bicompax Aesthetic With Modern Twist

Along with small seconds at nine o’clock and 30-minute counter at three o’clock, elements such as the red-tipped pointer-date hand took inspiration from Angelus chronographs of the mid-1900s. Various elements on the dial—applied Arabic numerals, snailed sub-dials, and frosted dial—add depth to the watch face. The Super-LumiNova applied hands and indices offer good visibility in the dark.

The combined design of different finishes, bevelled edges and well-defined lines, the 42.5mm case has a contemporary silhouette. It forms an exoskeleton around the container made from carbon fibre composite. The carbon inner case is visible through skeletonised case bands, and from below the notches of the bezel. The textured rubber strap with rubber lining, due to the compact shape and angles of the lugs, makes the watch a good fit around the wrist. Made from the same carbon fibre composite, the chronograph pushers on either side of the monogrammed crown feature labels in red font stating ‘start’ and ‘stop’ are inspired by sporty racing cars.

Contemporary Calibre

Offering a stunning view through the exhibition caseback is the automatic manufacture Calibre A-500 with column wheel chronograph that provides 60-hour power reserve, plus skeletonised rotor around the star-shaped brand emblem. Design wise, the movement has a contemporary look given the sandblasted and NAC-treated main plate, micro-blasted and NAC-treated bridges with satin-finished edges, and circular gained and rhodium-plated wheels.

“It’s a certified chronometer and has vertical engagement. The engagement is very smooth because of this, compared with a lot of other chronographs out there, which are hard to operate,” explained Savary. “The movement is manufactured by manufacture La Joux Perret, exclusively for Angelus. It has a 60-hour power reserve, and an easily interchangeable strap.”

With the various pastel hued dials in combination with sporty steel and royal red gold, the Angelus Chronodate become a bankable choice for every rhyme and season.