ReviewChronograph Chronicles: A Timeless Encounter With Czapek’s Faubourg de Cracovie
Czapek's Faubourg De Cracovie family of watches presents a vibrant blend of elegance and character, brilliantly embodied in 41.5mm steel, titanium and gold chronographs
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With sporty panache, yet embodying a refined sophistication, Czapek & Cie’s Faubourg de Cracovie collection exudes a timeless charm. This collection pays homage to an unparalleled standard of craftsmanship, as each piece marries remarkable aesthetics with a more-than-generous dash of exclusivity. Named after the location of François Czapek’s third boutique which graced Warsaw’s streets in 1850, the Faubourg de Cracovieline is a tribute to the past and yet firmly anchored in the present. Cast in resilient steel and titanium, robust chronographs exhibit a blend of finesse and strength, even as an ultra-exclusive selection boasts majestic gold casings. Czapek’s Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph watches charm primarily with their detailed handmade guilloche dials, however, certain models evoke a sublime simplicity, be it through a grand feu enamel dial, or in glittering aventurine. With this versatility and minimalistic design, Czapek ensure a perfect timepiece for every collector.
Faubourg de Cracovie: Elegance Reminiscent Of A Bygone Era
Making its debut at Baselworld 2018, the inaugural Czapek chronograph Faubourg de Cracovie collection set the stage for an ever-expanding repertoire of stunning chronographs. Each new addition to the lineup—like the peppy Purple Panda and ingenious Secret Alloy—narrates its own compelling story.
In 2019, Czapek added a splash of aquatic inspiration to the Faubourg de Cracovie collection, unveiling four breathtaking new timepieces. These watches, cast in shades of salmon, silver, and blue, draw their names from the Pacific Ocean’s most revered salmon species—chinook, coho, sockeye, and king.
The idea behind these timepieces came from a singular Czapek creation—a collector’s desire for a custom Quai des Bergues timepiece, complete with a salmon guilloche dial and striking blue hands and numerals sowed the seeds for this mesmerising collection. “The result was so surprising and beautiful that we decided to replicate the idea in our chronograph line, which has a contemporary design and a vintage touch, given by the sapphire glass box,” says Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek.
The Faubourg de Cracovie’s Distinctive Dials
Handcrafted to perfection, each watch showcases a guilloche dial expertly created by Swiss artisans at Metalem, Czapek’s partner based in Le Locle. Completing the dials is the brand’s iconic ‘résonance’ pattern—a design element directly inspired by the distinctive ‘ricochet’ pattern that first made its appearance in the Quai des Bergues collection. Intersecting concentric circles radiate from the two subdials positioned at three and nine o’clock, creating a compelling play of bas-relief squares.
The dial and subdials—cornerstones of Czapek’s unique design language—are masterfully crafted from Alloy 401, a blend made up of 55 per cent gold, with the remainder a fusion of platinum, palladium, and silver. The dial’s salmon finish flirting with hints of gold is the result of an electroplating technique known as galvanoplasty. This process enables artisans to create an exquisite, distinctive hue without disrupting the delicate engravings and the shadow-play induced by the engine-turned pattern’s edges.
Faubourg de Cracovie: Sporty And Sophisticated
The Coho’s salmon dial—complemented by silver subdials—and the King’s salmon face—against contrasting blued hands and numerals—present a novel fusion, yielding a sporty and well-balanced aesthetic. Paired with a sleek black alligator leather strap, the two steel models exude sophistication with their baton-applied indexes bathed in Super-LumiNova, and the ‘bombé’ dial’s luxurious materials like gold, silver, palladium, and platinum.
Yet another enchanting member of the Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph family is the L’Heure Bleue, with a classic blue dial expertly crafted to match the steel body, and tastefully paired with a complementary blue alligator leather strap. Much like its salmon-themed siblings, the L’Heure Bleue presents a galvanic blue handmade guilloche dial, coupled with steel rhodium-plated hands. The incorporation of gold, silver, palladium, and platinum transforms this quintessential integrated chronograph into a statement of energetic opulence.
Equally mesmerising is the Faubourg de Cracovie Grand Feu, which boasts a grand feu enamel dial, discreetly signed with ‘Czapek’ in the small-seconds subdial. Adorning the dial are elongated Roman numerals, with the XII in scarlet, and blued, skeletonised steel hands. The pristine white dial of the Grand Feu is mounted on a contrasting black alligator leather strap, creating a dynamic monochromatic spectacle.
Finished To Perfection: Case And Calibre Of The Faubourg de Cracovie
Packed inside a robust 41.5mm stainless steel case, the Coho, the King, the L’Heure Bleue, and the Grand Feu share a common heart, the proprietary Czapek SXH3 calibre, a trait they carry proudly like the rest of their kin. Featuring a ‘glass-box’ sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, these watches can withstand water depths up to 50m, testifying to their rugged construction.
Brought to life by the integrated column-wheel automatic bespoke chronograph movement from Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, these watches possess an impressive power reserve of 65 hours, driven by a single barrel that propels the balance wheel at a swift 36,000 vibrations per hour.
The movement incorporates state-of-the-art mechanical components, such as a linear hammer and a vertical clutch, ensuring a flawless initiation for the chronograph hand. The finishing touch comes from the movement’s diamond-blasted anthracite bridges. Visible through the transparent caseback, they lend the watch a modern flourish that complements its overall design. An emblem of casual elegance, fused with a robust personality, each timepiece from Czapek’s Faubourg de Cracovie collection offers more than just a watch—it is a testament to the timeless art of horology.