SpotlightOnly Watch: Unique Timepieces To Be Auctioned For Charity On May 10
The Only Watch auction, which was originally scheduled for November 5, 2023 in Geneva, was postponed due to certain concerns regarding the nonprofit’s finances. However, after a thorough financial audit and organisational restructuring for strengthening its governance and facilitating greater transparency; the 10th edition of the Only Watch will now happen on May 10—where unique timepieces from independent as well as legendary watch brands will go under the hammer at Christie’s
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It was in 2005 that the Only Watch auction started out, with the primary focus on raising funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (DMD)—a genetic disorder causing progressive muscle degeneration and weakness. The idea was simple—to rope in as many watch brands and auction one-off timepieces created by them, in order to direct the proceeds from their sales for this noble cause. Since then, this event has only gone from strength to strength, thanks to the support from the watchmaking community and has established itself as one of the most-awaited biennial galas in the horological world. While the previous nine editions have helped raise a total of about CHF 100 million till date; the 10th edition will be held on May 10, 2024 in Geneva, where unique timepieces from participating brands will go under the hammer at Christie’s, which is partnering the event consecutively, for the fourth time. While the charity event was planned for last year on November 5, it was postponed due to controversies regarding the handling of finances. This is why the last few months were used to conduct financial audits ‘to implement structural evolutions to strengthen its governance and practices in terms of transparency and ethics’, reads their official press statement. Though, initially 62 brands were supposed to be part of the auction, 15 have dropped out but the organisers are still hoping to make this a success. The selected watches showcase all the colours from the previous editions and have added green to this mix—which they view as a symbol of hope. Let’s look at some of the unique timepieces that have made the cut.
Angelus Chronodate Gold x Château Angelus
Angelus have collaborated with their namesake in the wine business, Château Angelus—known for producing some of the finest wines in the Bordeaux region. This has been showcased beautifully in the unique dial of the Chronodate Gold—made from freeze-dried wine lees of the estate’s 2022 vintage. Above and beyond perpetuating tradition, watchmaking and wine share geographic ties that define them and the idea here was to combine these two crafts, where there is no compromise on quality when it comes to the end product. The chronograph comes in an 18-karat red gold case measuring 42.5mm and houses the manufacture automatic calibre A-500 with a power reserve of at least 60 hours, but the highlight here is definitely the burgundy dial, which also displays a red-gold applique, bearing a faithful engraving of the Château’s bell, positioned at six o’clock.
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Only Watch 2023
This version of the Gravity Equal Force ‘Ultimate Sapphire’ incorporates the promotional hues of the 2023 Only Watch event, with relevant details including a transparent, green sapphire off-centre dial, a red logo, and blue stitching on the black fabric strap. The Gravity Equal Force is the world’s first automatic watch with a constant force transmission and this model comes in a 41mm stainless-steel case where the dial offers a view of the exquisitely-finished manufacture movement, which features superior chronometric performance and traditional hand-finished decorations.
Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Rainbow
This chromatic piece is an apt representation of the brand’s mastery in creating avant-garde timepieces that are not too overwhelming, despite their vibrancy. The BR 03 Cyber Rainbow highlights Bell & Ross’ fresh perspective on their iconic BR 03 design, fusing it with elements from the Cyber concept. Here, the meticulous craftsmanship is visible not only in the intricate open-worked mechanism but also in the details of the black DLC titanium case, decorated with coloured varnished pieces, painstakingly applied using a specialised process to resemble a mosaic pattern. This design extends on to the rubber strap as well.
Bovet Orbis Mundi
Known for their mastery in crafting timepieces with some of the most exquisite dials, Bovet have created the 18-karat red gold Orbis Mundi for this year’s auction. The 42mm timepiece is powered by a manufacture hand-winding movement with a magenta guilloche dial (achieved by seven layers of vibrant magenta lacquer) and an easy-to-ready world time display. Monaco is in magenta as is the X digit for the 10th edition of Only Watch.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble
The Italian masion have sealed their place as master watchmakers when it comes to ultra-thin timepieces. And the Octo Finissimo watch in marble is a true specimen of this intricate craftsmanship. The watch comes in a 40mm DLC-treated titanium case and bracelet—both covered with a Verde di Alpi marble. Even the dial is carved in the same marble with a forest-green hue, where at six o’clock, the watch face reveals the 1.95mm thin manual tourbillon, which is part of the in-house calibre BVL 268.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Only Watch
It comes as no surprise that the Lucerne-based watchmaker have decided to create a unique version of their famed Manero model for this charity event. However, it’s the first time that one gets to see it in a complete blacked-out avatar. The Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Only Watch comes in a high-tech, forged carbon case, boasting a distinctive carbon-flecked/black marbled appearance. Even the dial is jet black including the hour markers, save for some pop of green at 12 o’clock, where the flying tourbillon rests in all its glory.
Czapek Genève Place Vendôme Complicite – Courage Every Second
This timepiece depicts a vibrant-yet-understated design and comes in a 41.8mm stainless-steel case (rather than the precious metals used for the models of the Place Vendôme collection) and the dial is encircled by a champlevé enamel ring in the colours of Only Watch 2023. The Genève Place Vendôme Complicite – Courage Every Second watch is Czapek’s unique, open-worked reinterpretation of a double escapement combination—where two independent escapements beat at their own pace, with any rate variations balanced by a differential. This is part of the Czapek Calibre 8 featuring a screwed balance wheel, two sapphire glass bridges, and a power reserve of 72 hours.
Frederique Constant X Christiaan van der Klaauw Tourbillon Planetarium Only Watch 2023
A rare collaboration that one doesn’t see too often… For the first time, Frederique Constant and Christiaan van der Klaauw have joined forces to produce this 42mm astronomical timepiece crafted in platinum, housing the Geneva firm’s manufacture tourbillon movement—decorated and assembled by hand, and the Dutch watchmaker’s world’s smallest planetarium, displayed on an aventurine dial. It also showcases six planets accurately orbiting the Sun in real time. It’s also the first time that Frederique Constant have combined date/month display, using hands on a single counter.
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition
Girard-Perregaux have developed a unique piece that’s inspired by their legendary Bridges collection. Encased in a sandblasted 18-karat pink-gold framework and measuring 45mm in diameter, this regal timepiece showcases the Manufacture’s technical prowess and legendary craftsmanship—all expressed in a neoteric form. The dial reveals many functional parts including twin barrels and a unique silicium blade that buckles back and forth, serving the regulating organ with a uniform pulse of force.
Moser x MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium
Trust H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F to always surprise with their eccentric creations. And their Only Watch offering lives up to this reputation. The Streamliner Pandamonium—a result of this collaboration between these two independent watchmaking companies is a quirky take on the traditional minute repeater—with a little DJ Panda taking centre stage. For both MB&F and H. Moser & Cie., the notion of joy in life is essential and this translates to the watch also. Crafted in stainless steel, the timepiece comes in a 42.3mm case and features the flying balance wheel and double hairspring—an element taken from MB&F’s Legacy Machine range—placed right at the centre. The case middle has been completely hollowed out in order to accommodate the movement while allowing enough space to create a sound box. This amplifies the chiming of hours, quarter-hours and minutes by two gongs, onto which fall two hammers that are raised based on information provided by different feeler-spindles. This is driven by the three-dimensional hand-wound HMC 906 calibre, which has been partially skeletonised to allow certain key components of the mechanism to be admired. Beating at 18,000vph, it guarantees a minimum power reserve of 54 hours, and is decorated with contemporary finishes.
Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire
The avant-garde watchmaker, known for their pioneering work with new materials, have created this sapphire watch, inspired by Takashi Murakami’s iconic smiling flower motif. And at the centre lies the magnificent flying tourbillon—a first for Hublot, surrounded by 12 petals set with 444 gemstones. This 42mm watch is driven by the HUB9015 manual-winding movement, which boasts an impressive power reserve of 150 hours.
Jacob & Co X Concepto Watch Factory Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension
Known for their bold and larger-than-life timepieces that may not be everyone’s cup of tea, Jacob & Co. have created the Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension—the world’s first four-axis tourbillon timepiece. Here, the regulating organ is put in rotation along four axes. The first one is the same as the movement platform, around its centre, at a high speed of one rotation per minute. All three other axes are in a single carriage at the end of the rotating arm, making one revolution every 60, 18 and 15 seconds respectively. The watch comes in a 47mm rose-gold case covered entirely by transparent sapphire, which offers an unhindered view on the movement’s back plate, which features a mosaic pattern consisting of ornamental stones such as topaz, sapphire, citrine and several types of garnet—all arranged in a manner to recreate the Only watch 2023 colour theme.
Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto ‘On Track’
Celebrating their longstanding association with motor racing, Laurent Ferrier have created the Sport Auto ‘On Track’—a unique timepiece with a distinctive dial that features charcoal grey gradient shades, crafted in grade-5 titanium. The 41.5mm watch looks pretty elegant with a cushion-shaped case in an all-grey avatar where the only pop of colour comes from the blue and yellow minute track, surrounded by a green transfer. The white small second counter at six o’clock highlights the tone-on-tone indication ‘OW’, while the date window is positioned at three o’clock.
Louis Moinet Art-Tech
Just like all Louis Moinet watches, the Art-Tech too, merges modern technology and traditional craftsmanship. It features a hand-wound tourbillon with two barrel springs arranged in a ‘volte-face’ position. It comes in a 40mm grade-5, polished titanium case, featuring a dial which reflects the Only Watch 2023 colour scheme. The dial uses the optical properties of microelectronic circuits engraved on a silicon wafer, to create an intense visual animation of multi-coloured reflections that flash over a clear graphic design, whenever the watch catches light at different angles due to the wrist movement.
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Only Watch
Housed in a 43mm sapphire case—a first for Maurice Lacroix, this timepiece for the Only Watch 2023 edition features an elegant in-house skeleton movement Calibre ML330, decorated with rainbow hues. The hours and minutes are displayed on an off-centre dial, positioned at two o clock, while the sapphire case and the open-worked design allow the wearer to see the regulating organ, the mainspring in various states of tension, the gear train and even the keyless works.
Perrelet Turbine Chrono X Only Watch
This exclusive chronograph, developed by Perrelet, adopts an outstanding new design whose details stand out in a bright blue hue—one of the official colours of the auction theme. The 45mm timepiece crafted in titanium features a unique and distinctive display for measuring short time intervals with an easy-to-read chronograph function. The transparent sapphire crystal central counter offers a full view of the emblematic Turbine, which dominates the scene with its hypnotic movement, generated by the slightest movement of the wrist.
Ressence Type 1²
Known for their unique dial displays that have no hands, Ressence have created a special version of their famed Type 1² series for the Only Watch auction. This watch has a special message of hope and victory—in sync with the greater cause that the charity event stands for. The case is crafted in grade-5 titanium and measures 41mm, and the dial features a blue painted DNA chain on a silver background. This is symbolic of the genetic disorder and also hope that’s associated with finding a cure for it and is represented by a weekly revelation—where every Sunday at midnight, when all the three discs align, the dial showcases a DNA chain. Also, since blue is one of the main colours for this edition of Only Watch, it has been used extensively on the dial and is matched with a blue leather strap with a red lining and green edging—a nod to all the hues of Only Watch.
Speake-Marin Ripples Bleu Royal
The Ripples Bleu Royal watch serves as a radiant tribute to hope while also playing upon the emotional significance of time. The 40.3mm timepiece crafted in stainless steel showcases a deeper shade of blue on the dial, with a small seconds sub-dial positioned at 1.30. The hour and minute hands, shaped like hearts, are intricately rhodium-plated and gently curved, while the small seconds hand boasts a rhodium-plated, and flat design. It is powered by the calibre SMA03-T20, which supplies the watch with an energy reserve of at least 52 hours.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph
The iconic Monaco design has been revamped for this year’s Only Watch offering from TAG Heuer. The Swiss watchmaker has given a spin to their very first mechanical split-seconds chronograph wristwatch, which now debuts a completely new case design measuring 41mm—a direct inspiration from the original model launched in 1969. Crafted in texturised titanium with a sapphire exterior, the watch houses the brand-new TAG Heuer Calibre TH81-00 automatic split-seconds chronograph movement with a 65-hour autonomy.
Trilobe Réconciliation
This stunning piece in all black is inspired from the traditional Japanese art of Kintsugi, where broken objects are repaired with gold, and the philosophy behind this is that every scar is beautiful and carries its own story. The 40.5mm Trilobe Réconciliation timepiece is a poetic timepiece crafted from grade-5 titanium and is inspired by the same philosophy that it’s the trials and tribulations that shape us into unique individuals. For this, the artisans at the independent watch brand Trilobe have intentionally broken the watch, to cause impact marks on the rings and the movement, and the damaged parts are then gilded by hand with gold leaves—all executed with aplomb. The watch comes with a domed bezel and sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 50m.
Urwerk Space-Time Blade
Trust Urwerk to always come up with a radical timekeeping device, thanks to their out-of-the-box ideas, which lend a unique touch to fine watchmaking. This one is sure to have all Star Wars fans excited as the Space-Time Blade borrows heavily from science fiction. Here, the digits are the guiding light as the glass column illuminates, just like a lightsaber. This device not only indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds but also the distance of the Earth’s rotation, that too, in kilometers.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Only Watch Set
Zenith have created the Chronomaster Sport box set of four references featuring yellow, green, blue, and red ceramic bezels and coloured dials matching the official colours of Only Watch 2023. The watches are equipped with the automatic El Primero chronograph with 1/10th of a second measurement housed in 41mm stainless-steel cases.
