Round-UpTwenty Under 20: Presenting The Most Exclusive Watches Produced In Limited Editions Of 20 Pieces Or Less
Featuring stunning complications and made from rare and gorgeous materials, each of these limited-edition timepieces have a different story to tell, even as the one thing these watches have in common is their exclusivity
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For enthusiasts, perhaps the only thing more exciting than the exclusivity of a limited-edition timepiece is the rarity of an extremely small number of pieces created in the limited run. Not to be confused with special editions, which are usually released to commemorate an occasion or collaboration, limited-edition timepieces are produced in a fixed number and that number is all that will ever be sold. Even among these, there are those that are produced in extremely small quantities, making them some of the rarest and most coveted timepieces in the world. They can be made from a variety of materials or feature complex complications, making these watches as appealing as they are exclusive, while also often being really good investments, which could appreciate in value.
The Limited-Edition Angelus U30 Black Titanium
Name a complication and you will likely find it on the Angelus U30 Black Titanium timepiece. With a split-seconds chronograph, a flyback chronograph, a tourbillon and a power reserve indicator, the limited five-piece edition ‘defies categorisation’. The 47mm black DLC-treated titanium case houses an openworked dial, with the A-150 skeletonised calibre on display. Besides its timekeeping functions, the in-house movement features a tourbillon, 30-minute flyback and split-seconds chronograph, and a power reserve indicator. With highlights in green and red against the black and silver of the hand-fitted bridges, cog and column wheel of the movement—all visible on the dial side—this extremely technical watch becomes that much more exceptional.
The Limited-Edition Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Dragon & Phoenix
With a dial made from rare gemstones and minerals, Arnold & Son’s Ultrathin Tourbillon Dragon and Phoenix timepieces are inspired from a Chinese legend and feature miniature models of the two mythical creatures hand-carved from gold. As the story goes, a dragon and a phoenix created a pearl but it was stolen. When they found it, the pearl fell from the heavens and turned into a lake, and the dragon and the phoenix lay on either side of this lake. The dragon on the left of the dial clutches at a pearl make from mother-of-pearl in its talon, while the golden phoenix decorates the right. A white opal timekeeping sub-dial at 12 o’clock is offset beautifully by an ultra-thin flying tourbillon at six. The 18-karat red gold case, with a diameter of 42mm, has a thickness of only 8.6mm—quite spectacular, considering the A&S8200 calibre with an ultrathin tourbillon is housed within. Each of the eudialyte, pietersite, verdite, bronzite and marcasite dial versions are limited to five pieces each.
The Limited-Edition Armin Strom ‘Masterpiece 2’ Minute Repeater Resonance
Created to commemorate Armin Strom’s tenth anniversary in 2019, the ‘Masterpiece 2’ Minute Repeater Resonance is limited to 10 watches only. The inspiration for this timepiece came from a famous landmark in the brand’s hometown of Bern—the chiming clock tower (which, incidentally, also inspired Albert Einstien’s theory of relativity). The 47.7mm case of the Masterpiece 2 is made from grade 5 titanium and displays stunning engineering and watchmaking prowess on a skeletonised dial. Dual balance wheels operate in resonance, while the hammer and gongs, visible on the dial, create a periodic chime. Rose gold hands, numerals and the two balance cocks stand out against the otherwise monochromatic grey timepiece. A smoked effect on the crystal over the off-centred timekeeping sub-dial enhances the decoration on the manual winding calibre ARR-18.
The Limited-Edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra
The 1.8mm-thick Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra limited edition is a more fantastic and slimmer execution of the brand’s award-winning, ultra-thin line of watches. The manual-winding BVL 180 calibre has been integrated into the Octo Finissimo Ultra’s 40mm eight-sided titanium case. A reimagined mainplate—also the caseback of the timepiece—is made from anthracite-coloured DLC-treated tungsten carbide, while the ‘crowns’—at three for setting the time and eight o’clock for winding the watch—are the wheels for the movement. With a QR code engraved onto its rachet wheel links to exclusive NFT artwork intended for the wearer, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra edition is limited to 10 pieces only.
The Limited-Edition Louis Moinet Memoris Rose Gold
The Memoris was created to commemorate the first ever chronograph invented in 1816 by French watchmaker Louis Moinet. The Atelier’s idea was to put the chronograph complication first, and timekeeping second. This reimagined chronograph features an openworked dial with the chronograph column wheel displayed proudly on the dial, while the timekeeping part of the movement has been shifted behind. Time is told through a sub-dial at six o’clock. The limited 12-piece editions in rose gold feature skeletonised dials in base colours of blue, green, red and purple, which form a sort of canvas for the automatic LM79 calibre with timekeeping and chronograph functions. Sized at a robust 46mm, these rose gold watches feature matching highlights on the dial in the form of timekeeping and chronograph hands.
The Limited-Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon H02T Dubai Skyline
Released at the recently-concluded Dubai Watch Week, TAG Heuer’s Carrera Tourbillon H02T Dubai Skyline limited edition timepiece features a skeletonised dial with a tourbillon at six o’clock that doubles up as a small-seconds sub-dial. The tourbillon is housed in a lightweight carbon and titanium cage. The 45mm titanium grade 2 case is treated with black PVD, with a carbon bezel displaying the tachymeter scale. Blue accents on the indexes and outlines of two counters on the anthracite dial are reflected on the sapphire caseback, which offers a view of the Dubai skyline when viewed from the ground. At the heart of the watch is the COSC-certified Heuer 02T tourbillon calibre. The watch is limited to 12 pieces only.
The Limited-Edition Alpina Heritage Carée Mechanical 140 Years
Earlier this year Alpina released two vintage-inspired 14-piece limited-edition timepieces to mark 140 years of the brand’s existence. A rectangular case in sterling silver, sized at 29.5mm by 35.7mm, houses the manual-winding calibre 490. First released eighty-five years ago, in 1938, the calibre 490 featured a crown that incorporated dust protection, making the then steel or gold cases practically airtight—a revolutionary concept at the time. The re-interpreted 2023 Heritage Carée Mechanical is available in black or white dial versions, with the vintage Alpina brand logo at 12 o’clock and a small-seconds sub-dial at six. Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective treatment covers the dial, as well as the exhibition caseback of the timepiece through which this vintage movement can be viewed.
The Limited-Edition Jacob & Co Astronomia Solar Baguette Planets Zodiac Rose Gold
A miniaturised model of the solar system on the wrist, the 43mm rose-gold case of the Jacob & Co Astronomia Solar Baguette Planets Zodiac Rose Gold is nothing short of a bejewelled work of art, and limited to only 18 pieces. The baguette-cut diamond-set base turns counter-clockwise, while a rotating platform with three arms—that hold the timekeeping dial, a model of the earth carved from magnesium, and a tourbillon—rotates clockwise. Three planets made from semi-precious stones are laid out on this platform, their facets enhancing the sparkle of the diamond base, which also houses other celestial bodies. Twelve engraved zodiac signs replace the numerals on the timekeeping sub-dial, where rose-gold hands tell the time. This fascinating mini-universe is powered by the brand’s manually-wound JCAM19 calibre.
The Limited-Edition Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light & Fire
In celebration of the Chinese New Year this year, Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato Absolute Light & Fire, an 18-piece limited-edition timepiece. The 44mm case is made from a new polycrystalline material called YAG, which is similar to sapphire crystal in terms of toughness, but with a richer display in terms of colour. Its deep red hue was chosen to reflect ‘energy, prosperity and vitality’. This fiery case frames the gorgeous openworked dial and a view of the octagonal-shaped GP01800 calibre at the heart of this watch. The intense finishing on the components and the contrasting red of the round-octagonal case, paired with an integrated textured rubber strap, all make this a beautiful rendition of the Laureato Absolute.
The Limited-Edition Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight
Arnold & Son’s relatively new—and smallest—calibre, the A&S1612 rests within the 38mm white-gold case of the Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight, set with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, lugs and crown. This diamond-studded case frames a dial made from ruthenium crystals and mother-of-pearl, coloured in graduated shades of mint green, turquoise, sky blue and teal. On the upper half of the dial, a window displays an oversized moon made from ruthenium crystals. The sparkle of the diamonds and ruthenium are beautifully offset by light reflected on the shaded mother-of-pearl dial. This elegant and gorgeous moon-phase watch is a limited edition of 18 pieces, and is paired with a teal-blue alligator leather strap with a satin finish.
The Limited-Edition Jacob & Co Mystery Baguette Diamond Limited Edition
Paved with 172 baguette-cut diamonds, the Jacob & Co Mystery Baguette Diamond timepiece is limited to just 18 pieces. The invisible gem setting on this 38mm timepiece offers as much secrecy as the mysterious black pointer-shaped timekeeping hands suspended discreetly within the sapphire crystal layers between case and dial. Forty of these meticulously-sourced baguette-cut diamonds are set on the 18-karat white-gold case, while the centre of the dial has 51 baguette diamonds in a similar setting. The total carat weight of the baguette-cut diamond-studded watch measures an astounding 21.6 carat. The bejewelled watch is paired with a satin strap, enhancing the elegance of the seductive and mysterious timepiece.
The Limited-Edition Omega Wrist Chronograph
A tribute to Omega’s first wrist chronograph, this limited edition of 18 pieces revives a 1913 calibre to combine the very best of vintage watchmaking savoir-faire with contemporary materials. Featuring a crown and pusher made from the brand’s proprietary Sedna gold, the caseback of the 47.5mm 18-karat white-gold case opens up like a pocket watch, revealing the Omega 3018 calibre. This manually-wound movement is an updated version of the 1913 original 18’’’ CHRO calibre, retrieved from the brand’s vaults, and featuring a Breguet balance spring and bi‑metallic balance wheel. The white enamel dial features blued ‘Empire’ hands, and skeletonised Arabic numerals. A central chronograph hand stands out in Sedna gold.
The Limited-Edition Carl F. Bucherer Manero Double Tourbillon Peripheral Paradise
With two beautiful peripherally-mounted components, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Double Tourbillon Peripheral Paradise lives up to its name. The timepiece is wound by a peripheral rotor that can be viewed through the exhibition caseback, and features a peripherally-mounted open-worked ‘floating’ tourbillon visible on the dial and caseback. This tourbillon serves as a small-seconds sub-dial, with a rose-gold hand. The 18-piece limited-edition timepiece is housed in a 43.10mm rose-gold case, featuring a bezel set with 40 baguette-cut precious stones. These stones are reflected as baton-shaped hour markers on a black sunray brushed dial, with rose-gold hands telling the time. The automatic CFB T3000 calibre working at the heart of this watch, and offers a power reserve of 56 hours.
The Limited-Edition Czapek Quai Des Bergues Midnight In Geneva S
The limited 18-piece run of the Czapek Quai Des Bergues Midnight In Geneva S timepiece features a 42.5mm steel case that houses a gorgeous aventurine dial, the pièce de résistance of this watch. Elongated and elegant Roman numerals are disrupted by two sub-dials between four and five o’clock and seven and eight o’clock, with the seven-day power reserve indicator linked to the day of the week displayed on the former, and the latter housing the small seconds. The elegance of the midnight-sky dial is enhanced by Fleur-de-lys timekeeping hands. Inside the timepiece is the brand’s SXH1 calibre, a manually-wound movement, whose inspiration comes from a calibre developed and created by the brand’s founder, Franciszek Czapek.
The Limited-Edition Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon
The 20-piece limited-edition Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon watch is first time Grand Seiko have incorporated a mechanical complication on a timepiece, and the result is a fascinating mechanism with two powerful escapements put together. Named ‘Kodo’ (Japanese for heartbeat) for the constant rhythmic sound and movement, the watch is powered by the 9ST1 calibre, featuring the highest frequency incorporating its constant-force mechanism—28,800 vibrations per hour. The movement offers enhanced accuracy, a power reserve of 72 hours, and is visible in great detail through the open-worked dial. The 43.8mm Zaratsu-polished case of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon is made from 950 platinum and brilliant hard titanium.
The Limited-Edition H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial
Lauded for their minimalism, H. Moser & Cie released their extremely pared-down Endeavour Perpetual Calendar in 2022 with a ‘funky blue’ fumé dial. With a typically tongue-in-cheek sense of humour, the brand also released a limited 20-piece ‘Tutorial’ version of the watch that was anything but minimal. Text printed on the otherwise beautiful blue fumé dial explained—quite unnecessarily—how the perpetual calendar works. This information was excessively detailed—with mentions like ‘[clean dial] leap year indicator visible on movt side’, and ‘[foolproof] date can be set… with no risk for movt’. Still, when viewed the way it was intended, the Tutorial was indeed a very cool watch—and only a marginally cheeky response to critics.
The Limited-Edition MeisterSinger Singularis Enamel
A one-handed watch with a gorgeous vintage-style ivory dial created from genuine enamel, the MeisterSinger Singularis Enamel edition is a limited edition of 20 pieces. Its 43mm stainless steel case frames an ivory dial with double-digit hour markers in a serif font, and a single blued timekeeping hand. The minute track with 11 indexes between hour markers features a tiny ‘30’ to indicate the half-hour point. The highlight of the watch, besides its charming retro-inspired aesthetic, is the 120-hour power reserve offered by the hand-wound MSH01 calibre housed within. The charming old-fashioned appeal of the MeisterSinger Singularis Enamel edition makes this a highly-coveted limited-edition timepiece.
The Limited-Edition Ressence Type 1ZZ
With an avant-garde approach to time-telling, the Ressence Type 1ZZ 20-piece limited edition was created in collaboration with Laurent Picciotto, founder of Parisian watch retailer Chronopassion. Called ZZ for ‘Zwart Zwart’—Flemish for ‘black black’—the timepiece looks more deep slate-grey than black. Its crown-less, 42mm matt-black DLC-treated titanium grade 5 case features a double-domed sapphire crystal glass over a convex dial that appears like an extension of the case itself. The German silver dial is treated in a dark-grey matt PVD. Engraved numerals and markers painted black, and black polished hands enhance the monochromatic aesthetic of the minimalistic timepiece. Inside is the 2892/A calibre, with the brand’s ROCS 1 module that gives the watch its dynamism.
The Limited-Edition Zenith Defy Extreme E Copper X Prix
Zenith’s limited 20-piece Defy Extreme E Copper X Prix was inspired by the Extreme E electric rally held in Chile last year. The brand’s automatic El Primero 9004, the 1/100th-of-a-second high-frequency chronograph calibre, is housed within the 45mm carbon and titanium case of the watch. The sturdy ‘crush-proof’ case offers a water-resistance of up to 200m. An openworked dial is protected by tinted sapphire crystal glass, with three chronograph recorders in black, and a chronograph power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. For the strap, the brand have used upcycled Continental car tyres discarded after previous Extreme E races. Copper highlights on the timepiece and strap were a nod to the region’s copper mines.
Louis Moinet Time To Race
Although the Louis Moinet Time To Race watch isn’t technically a limited edition, each timepiece is unique, thanks to its customised racing number on the timekeeping sub-dial at six o’clock. The watch is the brand’s contemporary and sporty tribute to eponymous watchmaker Louis Moinet’s first chronograph. The 40.7mm cases are made from grade 5 titanium and feature skeletonised lugs and a single pusher at two o’clock. The chronograph function of the automatic LM96 calibre is displayed prominently on the openworked dial, even as the timekeeping functions have been relegated to the back. The watches are paired with blue, green and red rubber straps with matching highlights on the dial.
That these brilliant mechanical watches are only available in a very small number puts them at a more-coveted pedestal. The stunning materials used, the ideas and history behind them, and the complications—contemporary and renewed vintage—make these the some of the world’s most exclusive timepieces, and for very good reason.