Round-UpExit Rabbit, Enter Dragon: Presenting Watches That Pay Tribute To The Year Of The Dragon
On February 10, 2024, the dragon will start its rule over all twelve astrological signs in the Chinese zodiac. The likes of Bovet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Arnold & Son, Jaquet Droz, Jacob & Co, Corum, Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, IWC, Bell & Ross, Ulysse Nardin, Longines, Hublot, Baume & Mercier and Maurice Lacroix have released their Year of the Dragon timepieces, each a beautiful and unique tribute to the mythical and magical beast
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Every year, the Chinese zodiac inspires beautiful works of art on wristwatches, each with its own unique take on the 12 animals that make up the lunar astrological chart. As the dragon gets ready to rise on February 10, 2024, which will mark the start of the Year of the Dragon, watch brands release their tributes to the mythical, magical and magnificent creature, each as diverse and unique as the brands themselves. Bovet have placed a golden dragon in pride of place on their Récital 26 Chapter Two Golden Dragon timepiece, while Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ edition features a dragon etched into the grand feu enamelling on the reverse of the golden case. Grand Seiko’s dragon reference is more subtle, with rays patterned onto the deep ‘red dragon’ dial, and both TAG Heuer’s rose gold and steel tributes feature a caseback with a dragon tattoo. Hublot, IWC, Bell & Ross, Ulysse Nardin, Jacob & Co and Longines are the latest entrants into the dragon club.
The Great Race And The Year Of The Dragon
The Chinese zodiac follows the lunar calendar, and each year corresponds to an astrological sign named after an animal. According to Chinese legend, the Jade emperor held a race to choose his guards. The rat won, followed by the ox, the tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, and so on. The dragon is said to have come fifth even though it could soar because it stopped to bring rain to a drought-stricken village before giving the rabbit a gust of wind to sail through to heaven. Believed to be benevolent and wise, the dragon is the only fictional creature among the 12 zodiac animals, and people born in the year of the dragon are said to be intelligent, powerful and extremely fortunate. With such powerful symbolism associated with the zodiac, it is no wonder that watch brands recreate the ‘great race’ each year, offering magnificent timepieces inspired by the 12 animals, usually in limited editions.
Dance of the dragon
Bovet And The Year Of The Dragon
Bovet present the Récital 26 Chapter Two Golden Dragon timepiece in an asymmetrical 18-karat red gold sloping ‘writing desk’ case. The domed timekeeping sub-dial at 12 o’clock is made from blue quartz, and at three is the hemispheric world-time sub-dial displaying the names of 24 cities, with a pointer highlighting a second time zone. The flying tourbillon at six and the mother-of-pearl moonphase indicator at nine are partially obscured by the gorgeous dragon sculpted out of solid gold. In its eye sits a gleaming ruby. The detailing on the dragon is phenomenal, especially considering that it took the brand’s in-house engravers over 40 hours to add scales, whiskers, claws and such. The decoration of the hand wound calibre 17DM06-DT, visible through the caseback, is almost as gorgeous as that of the dial.
Portrait of a dragon
Jaeger-LeCoultre And The Year Of The Dragon
With its swivelling canvas of a dial, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ presents a beautiful, black grand feu enamel timekeeping dial on one side, and a golden dragon etched into a black enamelled background on its reverse. Measuring 45.5mm by 27.4mm, the rectangular case of the Reverso is made from pink gold, with a rich black enamel dial, and pink gold indexes and hands that match the case. On sliding it over, the same black enamel displays a golden dragon carved into it. This dragon is the masterpiece. The greatest challenge for the engraver was to start on an enamelled surface, as opposed to plain metal. The precision and dexterity it took are apparent in the details on the dragon and surrounding golden clouds.
The dragons who drank the moon
Arnold & Son And The Year Of The Dragon
Arnold & Son have created tributes to the Chinese zodiac in the past, but none as stunning as their Luna Magna Red Gold ‘Year of the Dragon’ timepieces with onyx and pietersite dials. The Luna Magna series already has the largest three-dimensional moon on a moon-phase watch, but the new moon (no pun intended) made from red gold and pietersite or onyx is a class apart. Dials made from streaked blue pietersite or smooth black onyx are framed by a 44mm red gold case, and feature a beautifully detailed golden dragon sculpted around an opal timekeeping sub-dial. Also crafted from red gold is half the oversized moon, while the dark side of the earth’s satellite is in pietersite or onyx to match the dial. The dragon looks as if it were reaching for the moon, with its meticulously crafted claws planted firmly on the Super-LumiNova-coated opal sub-dial. The manually wound A&S1021 calibre powers the timepiece and is visible through the caseback, which also features the red gold and mineral moon along with a two-dimensional display that mirrors the moon-phase displayed on the dial.
The mysterious dragon
Jacob & Co And The Year Of The Dragon
Shrouded in secrecy, Jacob & Co’s Mystery Tourbillon Coiled Dragon timepiece features an 18 karat rose gold case measuring 50mm wide and 25mm in height. Invisibly-set with 192 white baguette- and hexagon-cut diamonds, this undeniably large case size is justified by the three-dimensional art on the dial. On the centre of the dial is a flying, centrally-mounted, twin, triple-axis, back-to-back tourbillon. Around this fascinating horological marvel are two dragons sculpted from rose gold and hand lacquered in green. Scattered around these two magnificent beasts are exaggerated white clouds also crafted from rose gold and laquered in white. Each of the two lizard-like creatures inspired by Chinese folklore chase after a ‘pearl of wisdom’, which isn’t actually a pearl. Instead, the 288-facet white diamonds serve as ‘mysteriously’ suspended hour and minute hands. Around the periphery of the oversized dial are 12 baguette-cut white diamonds that function as hour markers. The hand-wound calibre JCAM32 powers the watch as well as the dragons and diamond-pearls that are constantly in motion. The watch offers a more-than-decent power reserve of 60 hours, and is mounted on a red alligator leather strap.
The dragon and the magic pearl
Ulysse Nardin And The Year Of The Dragon
Ulysse Nardin present their tribute to the Chinese zodiac and folklore in the form of their Blast Tourbillon Dragon. The watch with a platinum rotor features a three-dimensional dragon, carved out of rose gold and enamel, and wrapped around the openworked X on the dial. Beautifully sculpted and highly detailed, this dragon reaches out for a pearl on the flying tourbillon at six o’clock. Made from mother-of-pearl, the pearl symbolises purity and wisdom. According to Chinese culture, dragons are frequently associated with pearls, and together, they symbolise power, wisdom and good fortune. In shades of red, orange and yellow, the dragon dominates the blackened double X on the watch face. On the flange, rose gold indexes are filled with Super-LumiNova, and matching hands make time-telling easy. The 45mm rose gold case features a DLC-treated titanium case-middle and bezel, with a curved crystal over the 3D dial. At the heart of the Blast Tourbillon Dragon timepiece is the calibre UN-172, created especially for openworked watches, with a power reserve of three days.
The dragon made from the art of paper cutting
Hublot And The Year Of The Dragon
Known for their fusion of materials and ideas, Hublot present their take on the Year of the Dragon in their Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Dragon timepiece, with the mythical creature crafted out of the collection’s hands, wheels and H-shaped screws. The eyes of the dragon, for instance, are distinct reproductions of the H-shaped screws found on the bezels of Hublot timepieces, while the frame of the dragon’s head is designed with wheels of the movement, and the ‘mane’ is crafted from the hands of an Hublot watch. A collaboration between the brand and Chinese paper artist Chen Fenwan, this unique timepiece portrays Hublot’s concept of ‘the art of fusion’. The black rubber strap is decorated with scales that take the dragon out of the dial and onto the wrist, giving the watch a wholesome and extremely cool fusion-reptilian aesthetic. Inside the timepiece is the HUB1710 automatic calibre, with an autonomy of 50 hours.
The dragon that integrated a watch
Bell & Ross And The Year Of The Dragon
Bell & Ross’s BR 05 Artline Dragon goes a step further—and is distinctly bolder—than the rest of the collection. With a dragon’s face tattooed onto dial, the BR 05 Artline Dragon timepiece features timekeeping hands that are curved to resemble the beast’s whiskers. The case, bezel, crown guards and strap of the timepiece are similarly laser engraved to portray a cohesive image of a dragon. On the dial, the dragon looks as if it were about to swallow the date window at three o’clock. Hour markers sit subtly on the flange ring, undisturbed by the action all around the watch. The way the brand have integrated the dragon onto all aspects of the watch is fascinating, to say the least. And decorative as the watch might be, legibility is uncompromised. Inside the 40mm lasered steel case is the automatic calibre BR-CAL.321, with an autonomy of 54 hours.
The watch with a dragon tattoo
TAG Heuer And The Year Of The Dragon
TAG Heuer released the Carrera Chronograph Year of the Dragon timepiece in rose gold and steel with highlights in red, and mounted on a red alligator leather strap. The 18-karat rose gold timepiece is set in a 42mm case with a matching rose gold-plated sunray-brushed dial. Red highlights on the dial include two snailed counters at three and nine, accents on the hour markers and a central chronograph hand. A dragon motif decorates the sub-dial at six. The real beauty of this timepiece, however, is the golden dragon tattoo on the sapphire crystal caseback that also offers a view of the Heuer 02 calibre within. The colour red symbolises luck and life-giving energy in the Far East, and TAG Heuer’s tribute to the dragon emphasises these colours in a contemporary and cool manner.
The dragon caught in a bubble
Corum And The Year Of The Dragon
Corum presented two Bubble timepieces dedicated to the Year of the Dragon, with a magnifying effect in the form of a domed sapphire crystal glass over the decorated dial. These are, by far, the most unique take on the magical beasts. The Bubble 47 Dragon timepiece showcases a lacquered golden dragon against black lacquered clouds on the dial. The dragon is shown reaching for a moon made from mother-of-pearl, to illustrate the legend of the dragon, an animal associated with nature and natural phenomenon such as rain. The second timepiece, the Bubble 47 Dragon Eye displays a beautiful and fiery-looking red eye in the centre of the dial, with lacquered golden scales that evoke images from Viserion’s turning in the cult classic Game of Thrones. The 47mm cases of both timepieces are made from stainless steel coated with black PVD, and paired with black rubber straps so that nothing takes away from the microscopic effect of the ‘bubble’ glass on the dial. Inside the case is the CO 082 automatic calibre, also visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
The watch with a dragon rotor
IWC And The Year Of The Dragon
Schaffhausen-based watch brand IWC released their ode to the dragon in the guise of their sporty Portugieser Chronograph timepiece. The sportiness of the timepiece comes from the vertical layout on the Portugieser Chronograph’s bicompax dial, with a seconds track on the flange and clean Arabic numerals for hour markers. Leaf shaped hands enhance the dressiness of the watch. With a dial coloured in burgundy—a hue associated with fire and fortune in Chinese culture—the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon timepiece features a rotor shaped like a dragon, visible through the caseback. On the dial of the watch are highlights in gold, beautifully offsetting its burgundy base. The 41mm case of the watch is crafted from stainless steel, in contrast against the gold and red on the dial. Housed within is the brand’s automatic calibre 69355, with a power reserve of 46 hours.
The dragon that rose from peach blossoms
Longines And The Year Of The Dragon
Among the subdued yet formal tributes to the lunar zodiac, the Longines Flagship Heritage Year of the Dragon timepiece features a 38.5mm steel case. With a beautiful—and auspicious—red fumé dial, the Longines Flagship Heritage Year of the Dragon watch features gold-plated indexes and matching dauphine hands filled with Super-LumiNova. At six o’clock is a sub-dial displaying the moon phase, with a ring around it that indicates the date. A gold moon in a blue sky stands out against the red and gold of the dial. The reference to the dragon zodiac is engraved on the caseback. For this motif, the brand collaborated with Chinese artist Zinan Lam, who is known for blending traditional Chinese art with graffiti. Artwork on the caseback is inspired by peach blossoms, resulting in a traditional-looking dragon with whiskers and a mane that appear like branches of a peach tree. Inside the watch, the Longines calibre L899.5, with a silicon balance spring, ensures anti magnetism and enhanced accuracy, and offers a power reserve of 72 hours.
The dragon that chased after the moon(phase)
Baume & Mercier And The Year Of The Dragon
A moon-phase display with a dragon motif at six o’clock, and a dragon on the caseback adorn the Baume & Mercier Riviera Chinese New Year Limited Edition-Year of the Dragon watch. The sub-dial features two moons that display the moon in real time, with a dragon chasing the celestial body. Besides the yin (moon) and yang (dragon) reference on the moon-phase display, a curved golden hand shaped like a dragon’s whisker indicates the date on the ring around the sub-dial. The sapphire crystal window on the caseback is decorated with a highly detailed image of a golden dragon. There are other references to Chinese beliefs on the watch. Four screws on the bezel form a perfect square, and when viewed along with the circular dial or sub-dial, they reference a ‘round heaven and square earth’. The 43mm, 12-sided case houses the calibre BM14-1975 AC1, with a power reserve of five days, which is only partially covered by the dragon decal on the caseback.
Scales of the dragon
Grand Seiko And The Year Of The Dragon
According to the Japanese zodiac, people born in the year of the dragon or tatsu-doshi are believed to be brave, honest and trustworthy but also short-tempered and competitive. Japanese watchmakers Grand Seiko present a more subtle tribute to the dragon with their 88-piece limited-edition Red Dragon Automatic Hi-Beat 36000. The 40mm zaratsu polished steel case, with a barely-there bezel, is paired with a three-link steel bracelet, and comes with an optional, red, python leather strap. The reptilian scales are as close to a dragon’s as possible, given its mythical origins. A three-dimensional radial pattern decorates the burgundy dial, with a contrasting golden seconds hand completing the auspicious theme of the watch. Powering the watch and visible through the signed sapphire crystal caseback is the 9S85 calibre.
The watch with an animated dragon
Jaquet Droz And The Year Of The Dragon
Expectations from a brand known for their automatons are understandably high. Jaquet Droz meet all these expectations, and then some more, with their Imperial Dragon Automaton Red Gold-Cuprite timepiece. This wonder of art and mechanical animation is displayed in a red gold case measuring 43mm. The dial is made from cuprite, a copper ore with a distinct red hue. The colour is a nod to Chinese beliefs, while golden clouds near the dragon’s head and tail are a reference to its ability to bring rain and—by extension—prosperity. With incredible detailing on its scales, claws and whiskers, the dragon flexes its spine, sticks out its tongue, and opens its eyes, all while its lifelike claws clutch at a rotating red jasper pearl, treated with gold flecks beneath transparent laquer. Arrowhead red-gold hands tell the time on a sub-dial in the top half of the watch, while the animated dragon and glimpses of the mechanics that power this animation dominate the rest of the dial. Paired with a red fabric strap that matches the cuprite of the dial, this watch offers the best of both art and engineering worlds.
Bronze dragon
Maurice Lacroix And The Year Of The Dragon
Maurice Lacroix pair bronze, burgundy and Asian cultures for their Aikon Venturer Burgundy Asia limited edition timepiece. The 43mm bronze case features a unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert, and the Aikon’s signature six arms in bronze. The brushed and polished finishing on the case highlight the sunray-brushed treatment of the rich burgundy dial. Super-LumiNova filled hour markers are plated in rose-gold to match the case and augment the auspiciousness of the dial. Timekeeping hands—even the lollipop seconds hand—are filled with Super-LumiNova and plated in rose gold. While this watch doesn’t make a specific reference to the year of the dragon, it’s materials and colours are a definite nod to multiple Asian cultures. The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Venturer Burgundy Asia limited edition timepiece is powered by the automatic ML115 calibre. The watch is a practical and gorgeous tool that depicts the timelessness of both time and culture.
Of all the animals in the Chinese zodiac, the fictional dragon is most suited to artistic expression, making each of these timepieces distinctive in their appeal. As the year of the dragon approaches, more watchmaking brands are expected to release their tributes to the magical creature. We recommend that you watch this space for updates.
Dracarys!
Special Mention: The Kross Studio House Of The Dragon Special Edition
This has nothing to do with the Chinese Zodiac, but not only is 2024 the Year of the Dragon, it’s also the year the much-awaited second season of hit HBO series House of the Dragon is finally here. The Game of Thrones spinoff fantasy drama returned this week after the previous season ended in October 2022. And in celebration of that, in collaboration with HBO, Kross Studio have released a special edition of watches that are themed after the dragons in not this the ongoing House of the Dragon, but even the winged creatures seen amid the Targaryens in the mothership show.
We’ve referenced this pop culture world of dragons through our coverage of this Year of the Dragon, so why not show you a glimpse of that universe as well.
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Maurice Lacroix Aikon
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