ReviewRetro Roots: Introducing The Alpina Startimer Pilot’s Watch Collection
Known for creating sturdy tool watches, Alpina have been hitting it out of the park ever since their inception in 1883. Their mission—to engineer luxury sports watches that offer the greatest precision and reliability under the most gruelling conditions—is clearly reflected in the Startimer collection, comprising aviation-inspired timekeepers
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Established in 1883, Geneva-based watch company Alpina have been crafting some of the most rugged sports watches in the business that can be used on rough terrains, on choppy waters or conquering the skies. Like most sports watches that offer chronograph functions or are fitted with uni-directional diving bezels; these watches, too, are replete with such features that establish their firm identity as sports timekeepers. But perhaps the most distinguishing feature that would enable one to instantly recognise an Alpina timekeeper is the presence of the famed ‘red triangle’—incorporated in an inverted format on the dial, or the bezel or at the tip of the shorter end of the seconds hand.
Since the beginning, the brand’s focus was on designing luxury sports watches, offering exceptional accuracy and reliability in the most challenging environments, such as the Alps and at the beginning of the 20th century, Alpina became the official supplier of timekeepers to military pilots, who relied on these timepieces for their exceptional timekeeping abilities. And over the years, the Swiss player has continued to build-up on military and aviation-inspired watches that are an integral part of the brand portfolio and underwent a major overhaul in 2011. This is reflected in their Startimer collection—comprising watches that offer pilots the accuracy and dependability they require in the cockpit, along with the sophistication in terms of design and aesthetics. One is spoilt for choice as the options are aplenty: three-hand automatics in different sizes, chronographs (quartz or automatic), and heritage-inspired pieces. Let’s take a closer look.
Startimer Collection: Vintage-Inspired Pilot’s Watches For The Modern Collector
Alpina have been committed towards creating watches that can withstand any harsh weather or terrain conditions and today, they are in the league of Swiss watch companies, which develop, produce, and assemble their movements entirely in-house. With their Startimer collection, the brand continues the tradition of supplying fine watches to aviation enthusiasts, which combine the clean, classic beauty of vintage designs with modern, precision engineering and manufacturing. They stand out for their round cases, luminescent hour markers and Arabic numerals, neat dial display, big date function, and relatively large, knurled crown—all signature design elements borrowed from vintage Pilot’s watches.
The three-hand Startimer Pilot Automatic watches are a fine example of a combination of the qualitative finishing details and very straight functions, which offer the perfect balance between functionality and elegance on the wrist. These come in case dimensions of 44mm and 41mm—all crafted in stainless steel, where there is also an option of a rose-gold PVD coating on the case. The dials are also available in different hues such as blue, grey, black, and brown with typical oversized luminous hand-applied indexes and hands with a date window at three o’clock for the 44mm version. The iconic red Alpina triangle is featured at 12 o’clock and on the seconds hand. The 41mm models are slightly more contemporary, and can be paired with any ensemble since they are more versatile. Traditionally, the 39mm and 40mm diameters were preferred by collectors and historic manufacturing companies (especially in Geneva), who considered these case proportions to be more elegant and timeless in terms of design and architecture. Here, the date display is at six o’clock and the red triangle is positioned on the bezel at 12 o’clock. These versions are driven by the AL-525 automatic movement, which boasts a 38-hour power reserve and all of them are water-resistant to 100m.
Then there’s also the Alpina Automatic Chronograph which features the same iconic aviation dial design, albeit with a slight difference. Instead of a traditional chronograph display, this 44mm timepiece features a vertical ‘bi-compax’ counter layout to ensure perfect legibility and symmetry. The stainless-steel case, water-resistant to 100m, is also replete with an oversized pilot screw-in crown and two round pushers at two and four o’clock respectively. This is driven by the AL-725 calibre, which keeps the watch running for at least 46 hours.
The collection also comprises the Pilot Quartz Chronograph Big Date watches—in 44mm and 41mm versions—just as in the case for their Automatic counterparts. The 44mm model comes in a stainless-steel case with a rose-gold PVD coating and features large luminous numerals, three chronograph counters showcased at three, six, and nine o’clock, including the 1/10th of a second chronograph. The 41mm versions, again are more contemporary in design and are available in dial options in hues of green, blue or grey. Here, the design of the hands has been revised. While the 44mm models carry leaf-shaped hands, these smaller models feature cathedral hands, ending with a finer tip that enables the index markers to be read more precisely. However, for both versions, positioned at six o’clock is the large date—displayed in two separate windows. The watches are presented on either a leather straps or a stainless-steel bracelet.
And last but not least, for those who truly want a pilot’s watch that transports them back to the 1920s, the Startimer Pilot Heritage Automatic watches are your best bet. Available in a black-dial version (limited to 1,883 pieces) or a blue-dial model (limited to 288 pieces) these watches come in 44mm stainless-steel cases, where the highlight clearly is the hunter style casebacks found in pocket watches of yore. The dials have a matte surface and feature the hours and minutes hands as well as Arabic numerals—all covered in luminescent beige. The grooved design for the ‘onion’ crown at three o’clock, makes it easier to grip, even while wearing gloves. There’s also a 24-hour dial for long-haul flights. On turning the watch over, one can admire the decoration on the automatic AL-525 movement, which beats at a frequency of 28,800vph to provide an autonomy of at least 38 hours.