Q&AArnold & Son, Angelus CEO On Each Brand’s Identity, Signature Offerings And More
It’s important to stay connected to the past when it comes to identity, says Bertrand Savary, CEO of the sporty Angelus, and the more astronomically-inclined Arnold & Son
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Could you talk about the new Chronodate, and how it takes Angelus’s story forward?
There are three new Chronodates, for which we are playing with materials. There is a carbon case with titanium, in green, like the black versions earlier. It’s a certified chronometer, and it has vertical engagement, making it very smooth, as compared with a lot of other chronographs that are hard to operate. The movement is made by manufacture La Joux Perret for Angelus. It has a 60-hour power reserve, and an easily interchangeable strap. We are always looking forward, but it’s important also to be connected to the past. Angelus was well-known for its chronographs, while also producing movements for third-party brands. And the chronograph was the most important complication during this time.
How does this compare with Angelus’s other collections?
This year’s launch has a completely new case. We tried to keep the spirit of the brand without losing its inherent identity. Though we redesigned the case, it is inspired by the case of a watch from 1976: the lugs are exactly like the old ones. It’s important to respect what has been done in the past.
How do you distinguish between developments for Angelus and Arnold & Son?
Historically, Arnold & Son was an industrial watchmaker, linked with chronometry, travelling and astronomy. For Angelus, on the contrary, what we do is very sporty, with a mix of materials, etc. It’s a completely different approach, in my opinion.
Which watches best represent each brand in your opinion?
For me, the Chronodate presents what Angelus is today, and the way forward for the future. For Arnold, the Luna Magna is what defines the path that it is on.
Was the Luna Magna always meant to reiterated with different dial materials?
The aventurine and marble was always clear. We decided to create an edition with gemstones, because some clients like precious stones on their watches. And that’s how the Ultimate came about. It turned out to be successful, and now we have the Ultimate II—with 161 pariba tourmalines from Brazil and 161 diamonds on the moon. The Australian white opal sub-dial is set on a dial made from ruthenium crystals. It’s a masterpiece and limited to eight pieces—all sold out. The new one has the moon in half meteorite-half opal. We went further and added Super-LumiNova to the dial and the moon.
How would you compare the Luna Magna and the Perpetual Moon?
When people think of an astronomical piece from Arnold & Son, I believe it’s the Luna Magna. But we are selling a lot of Perpetual Moons, maybe because it’s easy to wear, with the case at 41.5mm, while the Luna Magna is 44mm. They’re both unique, but the Perpetual Moon is more classical.