ReviewA Moonlit Voyage: Arnold & Son’s Perpetual Moon Reaches Celestial Heights
With one of the largest and most impressive moon phase displays in the watchmaking cosmos, Arnold & Son's Perpetual Moon collection is a lunar romance that offers spectacular timepieces, including the Perpetual Moon Double Hemisphere
May We Recommend
For centuries, the moon has been a source of intrigue and fascination for humankind. Its ever-changing phases, bright glow in the night sky, and associations with time and the tide have revved up the imagination of people throughout history, much like the Swiss savoir faire of Arnold & Son. This modern maestro of traditional luxury watchmaking presents a constellation of surreal collections. Among these masterpieces, the Perpetual Moon collection stands out like the moon against a star-studded canvas of the night, presenting dreamy, enigmatic iterations in steel, gold and platinum, with editions such as the Perpetual Moon Obsidian, Perpetual Moon Gold with an aventurine dial, Perpetual Moon 38 Eclipse I, and Perpetual Moon Double Hemisphere Gold, which captures the cosmic dance of Earth’s sole satellite, as observed from both Northern and Southern Hemispheres.
A Lunar Love Letter: The HM Perpetual Moon Double Hemisphere Gold
A lunar ballet in the theatre of time, the HM Perpetual Moon Double Hemisphere Gold unravels the magic of the moonlit night within the confines of a watch dial. A second moon phase positioned between four and eight o’clock complements the original, showcasing the lunar cycle as viewed from both hemispheres. A mini world map at three o’clock bisects the dial evenly-a testament to the brand’s attention to detail. With the sweep of blue lacquer over guilloche, the upper dial and the 29mm moon phase disc are masterpieces in their own right. They are driven by the manual-winding in-house A&S1512 movement, whose impressive 90-hour power reserve ensures that the lunar love remains uninterrupted.
The watch’s dial, with golden stars and constellations, emanates meticulous craftsmanship. Despite ‘Double’ in its name, it offers triple the delight. A third moon display, viewable through a clear caseback, reveals eight key lunar stages for precise setting. Housed in a 42mm case in 18-karat red gold, water-resistant to 30m, and paired with a brown leather strap, it exudes warmth and elegance. Remarkably accurate, requiring adjustment only once every 122 years, the moon phase can be easily reset with a single push of the corrector installed at two o’clock.
Hailing from the Royal Collection-a line inspired by the maison’s illustrious lineage-the Double Hemisphere embodies the classic charm of an aperture-style moon phase display, unlike the avant-garde Luna Magna with its 3D lunar depiction. Yet, its big and bold portrayal of the moon’s most eye-catching features crafts a visual narrative, which is as enchanting as any Luna Magna model.
Perpetual Moon: Representing The Satellite’s Eternal Waltz
Arnold & Son’s creations represent a visual symphony, compelling onlookers to gasp in wonder. The watchmaker showcased the Perpetual Moon 41.5 in 2022. Available in platinum or gold, the 41.5mm references offer a unique finish christened as Stellar Rays. This aesthetic wonder is achieved through irregular engraving, resulting in a cosmos of depths and widths that create a rhythm of their own, dancing to the tune of shifting light and shadow. This depth is further enhanced by the careful application of multiple layers of transparent lacquer, rendering an additional dimension to the timepiece’s hypnotism.
In the platinum variant, a delicate salmon pink bathes the watch face and its soft metallic glow harmonises with the rhodium-plated details on the dial. On the other hand, the gold version is a night sky on the wrist. Its dial-a deep blue-mimics the velvety expanse of the heavens at night. The golden hands and hour markers echo the luminosity of distant stars, while a golden trim around the moon aperture adds exuberance to the timepiece.
The HM Perpetual Moon Blue pairs a radiant 42mm stainless steel case with a striking blue guilloche dial, contrasted subtly by a hand-stitched alligator leather strap in black or brown. The metal base with a guilloche pattern receives numerous layers of translucent blue lacquer, along with polishing to achieve a flawless, luminescent surface. The Perpetual Moon Gold Cream is another model in the family whose simplicity is all things seductive. The 18-karat red gold moon disc and golden stars against the blue highlight the cream dial, augmenting the hues of the moon’s tender glow.
Elevating the series further are the Perpetual Moon Eclipse I and Perpetual Moon 38 Gold. The former, with its radiant 38mm case in white gold and gem-studded façade, paves a new path for the brand’s jewelled offerings. Each of the 18 timepieces in this limited edition has been crafted with the ultimate precision and care. On its dial, the aventurine lace crystal has been encrusted with white mother-of-pearl and blue-tinted mother-of-pearl. This luminescent canvas is further adorned with an array of precious gemstones-35 brilliant-cut diamonds, three pear-cut diamonds, four brilliant-cut pink sapphires, and eight pear-cut blue sapphires.
The Perpetual Moon 38 Gold, cast in 18-karat red gold, has been set with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds. Beneath the graceful blue-tinged mother-of-pearl dial with an open-worked upper section, a large sky disc, also in mother-of-pearl, cradles a white moon treated with Super-LumiNova and meticulously hand-painted shadows. Adding to this celestial tableau are the Ursa Major and Cassiopeia constellations, etching a piece of the night sky into the watch’s heart.
With their Perpetual Moon collection, Arnold & Son masterfully bridge the gap between artistic expression and horological precision. As a testament to the brand’s innovation and elegance, these other-worldly timepieces undeniably elevate the tradition of moon phase complication to uncharted realms of luxury watchmaking.
The Latest Perpetual Moon: Platinum ‘Celestial Blue’
In June 2023, Arnold & Son released the latest edition of the Perpetual Moon—a platinum version featuring a ‘celestial blue’ dial. Following from the salmon-dial edition, this platinum iteration also comes with the same ‘stellar rays’ decoration on the dial that the brand have been known for, with this collection of larger-than-life moon displays. Adding to the resplendence of the dial’s decoration is the Super-LumiNova-treated moon crafted from mother-of-pearl, placed against the backdrop of a grained night sky seen through the massive window on the upper half of the dial. Housed within the 41.5mm, finely-polished platinum case is the same manual-winding calibre A&S1512, which has powered the earlier editions of this astronomical wonder.