ReviewPresenting The New Edition Of Baume & Mercier Riviera Watches

Swiss watchmaker Baume & Mercier—noted for their uncluttered dials and in-house movements—celebrated 50 years of existence by updating its landmark Riviera with a bevy of 33mm, 39mm and 42mm models at the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders, Geneva. With it first unveiling in 1973, Riviera also marked the brand’s foray into the realm of steel sport watches with integrated bracelets. The high-quality steel models are hailed for their 12-sided bezels. It was no surprise then when the Swiss watchmakers, in 2021, reintroduced this series in 43mm, 42mm and 36mm case sizes. All Riviera iterations retain the signature dodecagonal bezel and a variety of dial colours with matching rubber straps or integrated steel bracelets. The chronograph variants are limited to quartz and mechanical versions; while the latter version is equipped with the iconic in-house automatic movement—Baumatic calibre.

Riviera 33mm (M0A10730)

Luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets and angled bezels are currently in vogue, but Baume & Mercier already tested this hit design combo in the 1970s and decided to reintroduce the style in 2021. From their 2023 launches, the Riviera M0A10730 with a 33mm stainless steel case that is 9.6mm thick, comparatively petite than previous models, is viewed as “the new leading model of the collection.” Smaller than previous models, this version embodies the right way to blend gold and silver hues. What first catches your eye is the satin gold dial nestled within a dodecagonal bezel studded with four Top Wesselton 0.05-carat diamonds. The brand’s transparent ‘wave’ transfer decoration—a chevron pattern, symbolic of reaching the highest mountain and the deepest sea—graces the sunburst surface.

The Riviera M0A10730 with a 33mm stainless steel case is comparatively petite than previous models, and is viewed as “the new leading model of the collection"

A sliver of gold—5N glided PVD steel—slices through the middle of the case, and outlines the hour and minute hands, sweeping seconds hand, and the hour markers—a mix of Roman numerals and riveted indices—with applied Super-LumiNova

The openworked caseback allows a peek at the automatic Sellita calibre SW200 that dispels a 38-hour power reserve, 28,800vph frequency and renders the watch water resistant up to 50m

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A sliver of gold—5N glided PVD steel—slices through the middle of the case, and outlines the hour and minute hands, sweeping seconds hand, and the hour markers—a mix of Roman numerals and riveted indices—with Super-LumiNova blue glow. A framed date aperture sits at three o-clock. The openworked caseback allows a peek at the automatic Sellita calibre SW200 that dispels a 38-hour power reserve, 28,800vph frequency and renders the watch water resistant up to 50m. Both the calibre and the free octagonal crown have the brand’s Phi logo in relief. Another layer of protection are the two sturdy anti-glare scratch-resistant sapphire crystals over the case and caseback. Completing the look are three rows of polished and satin-brushed links form the integrated steel bracelet ending in a triple folding clasp. For less opulent, yet vibrant options in the 33mm roster, there’s Riviera 10727 (azure blue) and Riviera 10728 (violet) powered by quartz movement.

Riviera Azur 300m

Offering an impressive water resistance is the latest Baume & Mercier Riviera Azur 300m, basically diving watch versions of the previous Baumatic models. Atop the 42mm stainless steel case is a unidirectional rotating bezel with a scale indicating the first 15 minutes, lacquered numerals, plus Super-LumiNova coated dots and the triangle, and notched inserts on its six corners for better grip.

Atop the 42mm stainless steel case is a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 15-minute scale, lacquered numerals, plus Super-LumiNova coated dots and the triangle, and notched inserts on its six corners for better grip

Black is omnipresent in the second model with smoked grey sapphire crystals, the six notches on the bezel, ring around the crown, and black seconds’ hand

Colourwise, there are two variants: Riviera 10716—smoked-blue sapphire dial, blue rubber strap, and Riviera 10717—smoked grey sapphire with black accents. Beige coloured lume and blue emission on the bezel, hour and minute hands, central seconds hand, plus a blue ring around the screw-down crown, add drama to the model’s exterior. Black is omnipresent in the second colour option with smoked grey sapphire crystals, the six notches on the bezel, ring around the crown, and black seconds’ hand. The Baumatic BM13-1975A movement on which the Azur 300m runs is viewable from the sapphire caseback. This in-house developed calibre offers a five-day power reserve, a shield against magnetic fields, and daily accuracy of -4/+6 seconds/day. A date aperture sits snugly at 4:30 (between four and five o’clock).

Riviera 39mm

Minus the notched edges and larger case size, the three new Riviera 39mm versions in this line appear one step behind the Riviera 42mm lineage. The sport-chic disposition, however, is still on point, along with the archetypical chevron wave patterned dial, 12-sided bezel held down by four screws and protective sturdy sapphire crystals on both sides. All three models run on the self-winding Baumatic movement that offers a five-day power reserve, a daily -4 s/+6 precision, and around 1,500 Gauss to circumvent magnetic fields.

Minus the notched edges and larger case size, the three new Riviera 39mm versions in this line appear one step behind the Riviera 42mm lineage

The sport-chic disposition is still on point, along with the archetypical chevron wave patterned dial, 12-sided bezel held down by four screws and protective sturdy sapphire crystals on both sides

All three models run on the self-winding Baumatic movement that offers a five-day power reserve, a daily -4 s/+6 precision, and around 1,500 Gauss to circumvent magnetic fields

The Riviera M0A10720 has smoked grey sapphire dial but has a sand-blasted titanium bezel with 5N gold-plated PVD steel ring cutting through the horizontal framework

The movement, visible through the transparent caseback, is enhanced by 'Côtes de Genève' and snailed decorations

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Both the Riviera M0A10714 and M0A10715 are made from polished and satin-finished stainless steel. The M0A10714 has a smoked blue sapphire dial, with an integrated interchangeable blue rubber and alligator strap with tone-on-tone overstitching. The M0A10715 is fitted with a smoked grey sapphire dial attached to an integrated strap with three rows of polished and satin-finished links. Even the Riviera M0A10720 has smoked grey sapphire dial but has a sand-blasted titanium bezel with 5N gold-plated PVD steel ring cutting through the horizontal framework. In place of a steel bracelet, there’s a unique integrated grey rubber and strap with a canvas texture.

Highlights From Past To Present

All Baume & Mercier Riviera variants have a quick interchangeable system, where the wearer can swap the integrated stainless steel bracelet with a flexible rubber strap without the requirement of any tools or force. Most Riviera dials posit the day and date apertures at three o’clock, and the chronograph iterations display three sub-dials at six, nine and 12. The dauphine-style hands and hour indices are generously coated with luminous material for good legibility even in low-light conditions. On the other hand, the Baumatic iterations offer a glimpse of the inner workings of the movement at the caseback, including the bridges, date wheel and grain train. Available in deep blue or smoky grey, the translucent dials of the Baumatic models display the same chevron pattern.

Baume & Mercier have also introduced three chronograph iterations of the Riviera in blue and black dial colour

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Housed in a 43mm case, two of the chronograph variants are available in plain steel, whereas, the other one comes with sandblasted ADLC-coating

₹4,44,000

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The dial of the watches features a double day-date window at three o’clock, a small second hand at nine o’clock and two sub-dials for chronograph functions: a minute counter at 12 and an hour counter at six

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Although the new Riviera iterations feature the same 12-sided bezel as their predecessors, they are out-and-out modern and offer quite a number of updates. For instance, the latest variants come with four screws on the bezel, which are reminiscent of the various other luxury sports watches popular during the 1970s. Each timepiece is crafted from stainless steel and features a combination of brushed and polished surfaces with two notable exceptions—one of the chronograph iterations and the Baumatic models that come with sandblasted ADLC-coating, which lends a stealthy appearance to these timepieces.

Baume & Mercier Riviera

₹4,10,000

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Trusted And Reliable

Riviera timepieces are powered by a wide array of movements, including the in-house Baumatic, the Sellita SW-200, Valjoux 7750, and Swiss-made quartz movements. The Baumatic movement, offering a frequency of 28,800vph and providing an impressive minimum power reserve of 120 hours, is used in two of the iterations. Visible through an exhibition caseback, the movement features extensive decoration, including perlage on the bridges and Côtes de Genéve on the skeletonised rotor.

All the variants feature a quick interchangeable system that allows the wearer to swap the bracelet with a super-comfortable and flexible rubber strap

Without the requirement of any tools or force, the bracelet or the rubber strap can simply be clipped in between the lugs. It’s simple and effortless

Baume & Mercier Riviera

₹1,77,000

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In an age when watches are increasingly becoming more unisex in appeal, not many want their timepieces to be too large or too small. Even within that range, it’s good to have a couple of options, which Baume & Mercier have ensured, with the new Riviera in three different sizes—43, 42 and 36mm.

The Baumatic iterations feature deep, rich sapphire crystal dials, which are semi-transparent and offer a glimpse of the inner workings of the movement. The in-house Baumatic movement provides an impressive minimum power reserve of 120 hours.

The legendary Valjoux 7750 movement is part of countless mechanical chronograph iterations manufactured by brands such as IWC, TAG Heuer, Omega, and others. First introduced in 1973, the Valjoux 7750 features a three-plane cam system, instead of the usual column-wheel, making it easier to manufacture in larger quantities, hence keeping the cost relatively low. With 25 jewels, the calibre beats at 28,800vph frequency and runs autonomously for 48 hours. Its shock-protection system prevents any major damage on impact.

Apart from featuring the in-house Baumatic movement and the Valjoux 7750, the Riviera range also comes with an option of the Sellita SW-200 or a quartz movement

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The SW-200 is a trusted and reliable movement that offers a frequency of 28,800vph and a power reserve of 38 hours

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Seen here is the 42mm iteration of the Riviera, which features the SW-200 movement and comes attached to a green-coloured rubber strap

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Most of the Rivieras use either SW-200 or a quartz movement. The SW-200 offers a frequency of 28,800vph and 38-hour power reserve. Meanwhile, the quartz movement Ronda 714Li is entirely Swiss-made and promises remarkable longevity.