ReviewThe Open-Worked Urban Returns: Bell & Ross Present The New BR 05 Skeleton Golden
Skeletonised BR 05 timepieces have added so much to the supremacy of the Urban collection, and retaining the technical and design ingenuity of the collection is the BR 05 Skeleton Golden that dons a steel body and flaunts a vigorous skeletonised golden dial
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Military and aviation inspirations for Bell & Ross have guided the watch brand to deliver highly functional timepieces that promise a unique style statement. In 2019, Bell & Ross introduced the BR 05 series, infusing the collection with the brand’s history and design philosophy, thus creating an assortment of luxury sports watches that complement the urban lifestyle. Though relatively new, the BR 05 series is a diverse collection whose main attraction remains the skeleton watch—be it the Skeleton Blue released in 2020, the 2021 BR 05 Skeleton NightLum in black with green accents, or the funky-yet-elegant Skeleton Green showcased last year. This year, Bell & Ross present a new golden open-worked BR 05—the BR 05 Skeleton Golden.
A New Shade Of The Skeletonised Urban Watch: The BR 05 Skeleton Golden
The BR 05 Skeleton Golden adds to the charm of skeletonised Urban watches and continues the great work of the first all-steel skeletonised BR 05 version showcased in 2019. The golden hue of the dial brims with elegance and the view of the movement serves as testimony to the brand’s fine craftsmanship.
The skeletonised movement takes centre stage in the latest BR 05—by removing unnecessary materials to show only the essential bits—and the galvanised golden flange triggers a play of light that reflects hues in yellow, orange, brown, and red. The automatic calibre BR-CAL.322 is an engineering feat that augments the brand’s architectural and material inventiveness—the plate and the upper bridge of this movement are crafted in micro-blasted ruthenium. The movement achieves a frequency of 4Hz and delivers about 40 hours of power reserve.
The brand’s Baroque-style skeletal design embodies grandeur, except that in the newest golden BR 05, Bell & Ross have followed a linear and geometric approach. “We started from a good movement to create a beautiful movement,” says Bruno Belamich, co-founder and creative director of Bell & Ross.
An Ambassador Of Design And Technique
The distinguished round-within-the-square case features a flat sapphire-crystal glass with anti-reflective treatment, which is secured by a satin-brushed steel bezel pinned by four polished steel slotted screws. The screw-down crown is placed between the lateral guards on the 40mm satin-finished and polished steel case, and, together, they guarantee a water resistance of up to 100m. With an anti-reflective sapphire crystal on the underside of the watch, the rear shows the 360-degree oscillating weight featuring a matt decoration.
The steel body gives a mesmerising contrast to the glorious gold of the open-worked dial. The watch face promises superb readability with baton-shaped applied golden indexes—these skeletonised baton-shaped hands have also been coated with the grade X1 white-10 Super-LumiNova, giving the dial a green luminescence in the dark.
The technical prowess of the manufacture is also reflected in the construction of the bracelet, where its central link has been seamlessly integrated into the case. “The integration of the bracelet into the case is carried out according to the brand’s codes, while at the same time bringing another dimension to the watch—the first link is part of the case. This type of design has been a reference since the 1970s and when we transpose it to Bell & Ross, we obtain a result that is both obvious and ergonomic,” adds Belamich.
This design for the attachment system allows the BR 05 to give off a unified look. The wearer can choose between a steel bracelet that becomes a whole with the steel case or a brown rubber strap that further elevates the elegance of the golden dial.
Athleisure Watchmaking Redefined
With each passing year, BR 05 skeletonised models become more refined. These timepieces are an epic representation of minimalist elegance that graces both the new and older models. The BR 05 collection’s Urban series is a splendid family of watches that have given the watchmaking community references like the BR05A-BL-SK-ST/SST and BR05A-PG-SK-PG/SPG. The open-worked BR 05 iterations have broadened the horizon for the brand’s athleisure watches that are not only utilitarian but also a fitting extension of extravagance.
The contemporary construction of the BR 05 Skeleton Golden allows technique and aesthetics to walk hand in hand. Just like its elder siblings, the latest golden Urban BR 05 is a chic watch that can complement the wearer’s cosmopolitan sensibilities. Limited to 500 pieces, the BR 05 Skeleton Golden takes the brand a step further in the world of fine watchmaking inspired by aeronautics.