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FeatureBremont: The Story Behind The Very British Brand And Their Watches

'The Watch Guide' delves into the incredible story behind the fairly new British brand, Bremont, and how it took world of watches by storm with their beautifully crafted modern interpretations of aviation timepieces

Ajinkya Nair January 14, 2021

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The story of Bremont is simply one of the most fascinating origin stories of any watch manufacturers out there. Nick English, one of Bremont’s co-founders, and his father, Royal Air Force (RAF) veteran Dr Euan English, were participating in a practice formation flying session for an air show in 1995. Suddenly, the aircraft right in front of theirs suffered an engine misfire. They were forced to manoeuvre sharply to avoid a mid-air collision, but the 1942 WWII Harvard aircraft they were flying lost control and went into a spin, causing it to crash. Dr English, sadly, passed away. Nick nearly died as well, after having broken more than 30 bones in his body. After the devastating incident and Nick’s miraculous recovery, he and his brother Giles re-evaluated their lives and decided to do something different. The two brothers decided to pursue what they enjoyed most—a life of crafting beautifully engineered mechanical devices—so they took over their father’s company, which restored historical aircraft, full time.

Dr Euan English was an aeronautical engineer with an interest in watches. He's seen here (right) next to his son and Bremont co-founder, Nick English

Bremont, The Name

The brothers’ tryst with watches began in the late 1990s when the two were flying across France in their 1930s’ biplane. Due to declining weather and a rough-running engine, they were forced to make an emergency landing. Keen to avoid the French authorities, the brothers were more than happy to accept the gracious help of a farmer whose field they had landed in. The farmer sheltered the plane in his old hay barn and welcomed the English brothers into his home for several days until the weather improved. What they learnt there was that their host had flown aircraft during the war and was also a gifted engineer with a keen interest for timepieces. Half-restored wall clocks lay everywhere, together with numerous engine parts. It was then that the men connected over shared passions. The brothers, delighted by their host, promised that his warm hospitality would never be forgotten. And his name? Antoine Bremont.

The Bremont name, just like each and every watch of theirs, comes with a story. Seen here is the Airco Mach 1

Building A Brand

In the beginning, the pair set up shop in Bienne, Switzerland, as a strategic outpost, from which they would be able to study Swiss methods and source the finest available watch components. Today is a different story. Bremont has its headquarters in Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, and its watches are proudly engineered in the UK, at the company’s manufacturing facility in Silverstone, Northamptonshire. Being one of only a few British watch brands helped Bremont distinguish itself from the start. But the brothers knew they needed to be a lot more than that to make the brand a success. So they set about creating a truly authentic brand—one that focuses on combining cranked-up engineering and technological breakthroughs, with classic, timeless style. The company, founded in 2002, prototyped and tested their first designs for the next five years in some of the harshest conditions on earth. This led to the company’s motto, ‘Beyond endurance’. While they started incredibly small, Bremont has quickly become a successful brand and a crowd favourite, especially in the field of rugged tool watches.

The Collaborative Spirit

Owing to Bremont’s authentic approach to watchmaking, they quickly built up a commanding position in the horological market; something that takes tens, if not hundreds of years in this legacy-driven industry. And this led to partnerships with other British engineering icons such as Martin-Baker, Jaguar and British Airways. Bremont also formed relationships and acted as the official timing partner for institutions such as America’s Cup (the regatta competition), England Rugby and Isle of Man TT (the motorcycling event). This collaborative spirit birthed a variety of watches, but with each one telling a story beyond that of merely telling the time. The company was also awarded numerous military contracts, which now accounts for almost a quarter of its total business. The Bremont Military and Special Projects Division work with elite military units worldwide to create bespoke watches to fit the needs of combat personnel, whether that entails withstanding the rigours of high altitudes or of deep-sea diving. Bremont also worked with the Ministry of Defence (MOD) on the Bremont Armed Forces Collection and are the only watch manufacturer allowed to feature the signs and badges of the Royal Navy, British Army and the Royal Air Force on their products.

And finally, the watches…

Aviation

With an RAF heritage to uphold and the family’s inherent affinity towards aviation, it comes as no surprise that Bremont takes their line of pilot watches seriously. They need to make sure their watches can withstand the rigours of military air flight. Martin-Baker, a British aviation company responsible for supplying 70 percent of the world’s air forces with fighter ejection seat technology, approached Bremont in 2007 to create a watch that could withstand the same rigorous testing programme as the ejection seats do. Two years later, the Bremont MBI was born. The limited-edition MBI remains solely for pilots who have ejected from an aircraft using a Martin-Baker seat whereas the MBII is available to all. The MBII exemplifies what the brand does right and is a watch that is overbuilt to the maximum. Designed and tested to withstand the MB ejection seat test programme, the watch features innovative shock protection among a slew of other features to withstand the incredible stresses of a fighter seat ejection. Where most aviation watch cases comprise two pieces (a case-middle with a bezel and integrated lugs, and a screw-down caseback), Bremont’s unique Trip-Tick design incorporates three pieces: the bezel, the caseback, and a separate middle barrel. This allows Bremont to create watch cases that are visually distinct from the mass of two-piece cases, particularly apparent from their profile view. The case is really elegant and unique in design, and it uses especially hardened steel. This 42mm watch is powered by the calibre BE-36AE, a COSC-certified chronometer movement with 38 hours of power reserve.

Another important line in Bremont’s aviation genre is the AIRCO, named after one of Britain’s very first aviation companies, the Aircraft Manufacturing Company Limited. The watches are vintage in aesthetic, but their construction is as modern as can be. Presented in stainless steel ‘Trip-Tick’ cases, which Bremont has decided for the first time to manufacture in a smaller 40mm size, these watches are hugely desirable for its versatile size and refined looks. The watches are powered by the calibre BE-92A, which is an automatic movement made by ETA and modified by Bremont. It beats at a frequency of 28,800vph and can run for up to 38 hours autonomously.

Bremont Altitude

The ALT1-C Chronograph is a popular pilot’s chronograph that was launched in 2007. But the edition seen here a bit more special: the Bremont ALT1-C Griffon. This new variant is designed to pay tribute to the Spitfire variant that was powered by Rolls-Royce Griffon engines. The dial features a bi-compax chronograph layout that has a 30-minute counter at three o’clock and a running seconds hand at nine. The vintage-style Super-LumiNova used on the dial is reminiscent of the lume one might have seen on military equipment from the Spitfire-era. The watch is powered by the calibre BE-50AE, which is originally an ETA movement modified by Bremont to make it meet the high norms of the COSC certification. The movement has a power reserve of 42 hours.

Bremont Altitude

Alternatively, if you want to take the stealth route, our pick would be the blacked out ALT1-P2 JET. Clad in black DLC, the 43mm stainless steel case of the ALT1-P2-Jet is both hefty and durable. Bremont’s Trip-Tick technology is on full display here, including a hardened steel bezel element, a central body consisting of the DLC-treated middle barrel and the crystal caseback. The ALT1-P2-Jet is powered by the chronometer-certified BE-53AE automatic calibre. This movement is derived from an ETA calibre that has been extensively reworked by Bremont to match a level of accuracy that a chronometer certification demands.

Diver’s

Back in 2009, Bremont introduced the Supermarine 500, which introduced a fresh take on a pretty well-travelled path: the dive watch. Its unique crown guard, sapphire crystal bezel, signature Bremont three-piece ‘Trip-Tick’ case, and overall styling set it apart from the pack. It quickly became a favourite among fans of the dive watch genre. The English brothers wanted to build a robust but beautifully engineered diving watch that was very practical in design but also tied into the brand’s strong aviation heritage. The range was named as a tribute to the brothers’ love of the iconic British aircraft manufacturer responsible for the Supermarine S6B Schneider Trophy Seaplane and of course the incredible Supermarine Spitfire.

The Supermarine series is the result of the English brothers wanting to build a robust but beautifully engineered diving watch that was very practical in design but also tied into the brand’s strong aviation heritage

Now, the S line of watches consists of the 300, 301, 500, and 501. The numbers, as you might’ve guessed, denote the water resistance rating of each. Demonstrating the brand’s no-nonsense British clarity and effortless sense of refinement, the Supermarine also boasts the impressive technical credentials. Bremont’s S300 and S301 collection differentiates itself from the 500 and 501 (sized at 43mm) with a smaller 40mm package. The 301 and 501 are for the folks that want their vintage appeal in a somewhat stronger flavour. The BE-36AE that powers the 500 and 501 beats at 28,800vph, and provides a 38-hour power reserve. The Type 300 and 301 make use of self-winding ETA 2892 movement, modified by Bremont and rechristened as the BE-92AE. Like all other Bremont movements, these too are COSC-tested-and-certified chronometers.

However, if you’re a collector who likes his watches nautical and wants something truly special and exciting, look no further than the Argonaut—a brilliant military dive watch whose name is inspired by Greek mythology and closely associated with The Royal Navy’s history. The timepiece, made in partnership between the luxury British watchmaker Bremont and the honourable Ministry of Defence, is specifically designed for the marine environment. The caseback is stamped with the heraldic crests of Her Majesty’s armed forces, reflecting their role as official partners of the army, navy and air force. This 42mm watch is powered by the BE-92AV automatic chronometer that can deliver a 42-hour power reserve.

Jaguar

The collaboration with this iconic British car manufacturer began in 2014 when Bremont announced a limited edition of six time-only watches, inspired by the famous Jaguar E-Type race car. The watch, constructed in 18-karat white gold, was designed to be sold to the future owners of the six $1.6 million re-production E-Types that Jaguar created that year. That watch, reissued in steel, became the MKI. But we’re here to talk to you about its successors, the MKII and MKIII. The MKII instantly beams the wearer back to the golden era of 1960s sports car motoring. It features an exquisite white dial that carries the Jaguar heritage logo above the six o’clock position and its hour markers are in the style of the numerals found on E-Type instruments. The timepiece uses the classic chronograph watch layout, with the two sub-dials at the three and nine o’clock positions. It is powered by the beautifully decorated BE-50AE automatic movement, which has been customised by Bremont to a unique specification. A subtle ‘red line’ on the small seconds counter pays tribute to the E-type’s tachometer.

Bremont Motorsport

The MKIII is the most pared-down timepiece in the range, yet still adheres to the design language of the MKI and MKII and Jaguar as a whole. The MKIII features a 43mm polished steel case, within which the black tachometer-inspired dial design features the date window at the six o’clock position and carries the Jaguar heritage logo right above it. Its hour markings are reminiscent of the numerals found on E-Type instruments and the dial features a distinctive ‘red line’ quadrant between three and four o’clock also paying homage to the E-Type’s tachometer. As with the other models in this range, the iconic winding crown harks back to the Lightweight E-Type using the same original Dunlop tyre tread, topped with the Jaguar heritage logo to match that of the dial.

Bremont Motorsport

Special Projects

The Broadsword Bronze collection comes as a bit of an oddball, given that most defence procurement exercises are about minimising cost. And bronze is not exactly the cheapest material out there. However, there’s just something wonderful about a military watch with a bronze case, especially one that dons Bremont’s refined yet restricted aesthetics. Bronze has the quality of developing a patina over time, losing its initial shine and taking on a more distinguished character. And what you end up with gradually is a watch with a finish unique to you.

The collection is a contemporary take on the three-hand ‘Dirty Dozen’ watch design, which houses the chronometer-certified BE-95-2AV movement inside its two-piece 40mm hardened steel case as well as a small seconds hand at six o’clock. Multiple layers of luminous paint on the hands and dial complete the original specification for the British Army.

Military, aviation and automotive collaborations aside, one of our favourite watches by Bremont honours something that enabled those three industries in the first place: science. In 2020, the company paid respect to one of Britain’s greatest scientific heroes, Professor Stephen Hawking, in their new Bremont Hawking Limited Edition timepiece. Designed in collaboration with the Hawking family, the British watch manufacturer has created something unique to themselves, and anyone else in the industry for that fact. From its dial to its caseback, each detail has been carefully chosen to commemorate Professor Hawking’s fascination with time. Flip the watch over and you’ll be surprised to find a meteorite inlay surrounded by four special wooden discs that are engineered from the desk where Stephen Hawking worked from 1975 until his death. You’ll also find an etching of stars from the night sky in Oxford, on January 8, 1942—the date that Hawking was born. The watch’s serial number is printed on paper from original copies of a 1979 seminal research paper—commonly referred to as ‘The “nuts” and “bolts” of gravity’, and co-written with one of Hawking’s longest-serving collaborators, Professor Gary Gibbons—which sought to understand the thermal properties of black holes. Housed within is the BE-33AE movement, with a 42-hour power reserve. This truly is a special watch.

Bremont Time Capsule

The Bremont Project Possible commemorates the ultimate mountaineering feat. Bremont ambassador Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja MBE firmly took his place in mountaineering history when he completed the Bremont Project Possible, a challenge to summit Earth’s 14 tallest mountains, all higher than 8,000m in just six months and six days. Smashing the previous record of nearly eight years and breaking a further six world records in the process, it’s arguably a record unlikely to be broken. To celebrate this remarkable feat and the ultimate mountaineering goal, Bremont released the Bremont Project Possible limited edition. This is a GMT version of their celebrated S500 dive watch in a special combination of titanium and bronze. Bremont has opted for a case made of aviation-grade Ti 4-6 titanium with a bronze bezel and a blue ceramic insert. Turning the watch over reveals an open caseback through which the rotor can be seen, which details the heights of each of the 14 mountains, and in the order that Nims summited them.

Bremont Supermarine

These are just some of Bremont’s impressive watches that we wanted to bring to light. And the need to explore every detail that we have is testament to the uniqueness of every timepiece by Bremont and how each one has a different story to tell. Bremont, according to me, is a lesson to those who want to enter the true manufacturer side of the legacy-driven world of horology. Right from the start, the brand knew who they were, what they stood for, and a strong idea of who their customers would be. And that’s what ushered them into success. Their approach to designing, testing, and constructing watches is uncompromising. And whether you are a lover of adventure or are simply looking for a timepiece of exceptional quality, you just can’t go wrong with a Bremont.