SpotlightPushing The Boundaries: Bulgari Set Another World Record With The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC

It comes as no surprise that Bulgari have once again set the record for the world’s thinnest mechanical watch with the launch of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC—measuring only 1.70mm thick (or thin). The Italian maison’s quest for crafting ultra-thin timepieces started in 2012, when they unveiled the Octo L’Originale, which set the groundwork for a number of records that followed, including the world’s thinnest tourbillon created in 2014. They have mastered the ‘art of miniaturisation’ to develop ground-breaking timepieces that are epitomes of fine Italian craftsmanship, pared-down designs, and remarkable precision.

The new Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC sets a new benchmark in the fine watchmaking sphere as it pushes the boundaries when it comes to creating a watch that’s so slim—thinner than a coin—and firmly seals Bulgari’s supremacy when it comes to developing wafer-thin timepieces that are not just gorgeous in terms of aesthetics but also score high on the technicalities and functions. And the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC takes the crown for not just being the thinnest mechanical watch but is also the world’s thinnest COSC chronometer.

“What makes us so proud of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is not just that it represents a remarkable triumph over the constraints of physics, but the spirit and depth of mechanical ingenuity behind it that so perfectly encapsulate the ethos of our Maison,” says Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO, Bulgari in an official statement. “To break new ground, to think differently in seeking to achieve greater reliability, performance, and elegance, that is what propels us forward,” he states further.

It was in 2022 that Bulgari had presented the Octo Finissimo Ultra measuring only 1.80mm that briefly held the record for the world’s thinnest mechanical watch only to be superseded by Richard Mille’s RM UP-01 Ferrari standing at just 1.75mm, bagging the crown for the thinnest watch, thanks to its ultra-flat construction. This propelled Bulgari to reclaim the title, which resulted in the creation of the new Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, a 40mm watch crafted in solid titanium, including the fully-integrated bracelet. For this, the brand had to rework the case by optimising the sapphire crystal. After careful planning that involved numerous steps, the engineers were able to shave off that critical tenth of a millimetre to create the world’s thinnest mechanical watch.

To save space, the caseback here is the main plate upon which the manually-wound BVL180 manufacture calibre, composed of 170 components is assembled, which supplies a 50-hour power reserve. They are selected using 1/10-micron optical measuring systems to ensure the selection of parts that are closest to the perfect dimensions, in order to achieve maximum accuracy in terms of proportions. This main plate is crafted from a particularly dense, hard, and ultra-resistant tungsten carbide. Also, to maximise the use of the watch’s surface area, the hour and minute dials, the large barrel, and the escapement, the watchmakers at Bulgari have played around with the circular geometry of the bezel opening. This exceptional watch is available in a limited series of 20 pieces only. There’s also a full platinum version available with satin, polished, and sand-blasted finishes for the case middle and bezel, along with a bracelet also crafted in the precious metal. Measuring 1.80mm, this is the thinnest platinum watch created and is also limited to 20 pieces only.

Not resting on their past laurels, Bulgari have created the ‘world’s thinnest mechanical watch’, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC measuring only 1.70mm—a testament to their constant pursuit of innovation and challenging the status quo

Bulgari have also expanded this collection with three new Octo Finissimo Tourbillon models. There are two manual winding watches—one in rose gold and the other in titanium—both measuring 40mm and are powered by the complex BVL 268SK manufacture calibre—measuring 1.95mm thick. This past record holder from 2014 drives these two new variants and can keep them functioning for at least 52 hours. The skeletonised dials reveal the tourbillon mechanism and throws a hypnotic effect as one observes the workings of the movement. The third version is an automatic crafted in a 42mm platinum case and powered by the self-winding BVL 288 manufacture calibre, measuring 1.95mm, with a microblasted blue finish. The case alternates between satin and polished surfaces, revealing all the wheels and gears—including the flying tourbillon nestled at six o’clock.

Another notable mention are two new Octo Roma watches in an all-black aesthetic that look quite stylish and sleek, thanks to being crafted in 100 percent black DLC steel. There’s a three-hand automatic measuring 41mm and a chronograph housed in a 42mm case. Both pieces are imbued with the same Octo Roma DNA—a solid steel case with a design geometry that draws inspiration from the principles of ancient Roman architecture; a screw-down crown with a ceramic insert for a guaranteed water resistance of up to 100m; two interchangeable straps, an in-house automatic movement with date function, and a 42-hour power reserve.

Another notable mention are two new Octo Roma watches in an all-black aesthetic that look quite stylish and sleek, thanks to being crafted in 100 percent black DLC steel

There’s a three-hand automatic measuring 41mm and a chronograph housed in a 42mm case