SpotlightPortrait Of A Movement: Introducing The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sketch

It all began in 2012, when the Italian maison Bulgari launched the Octo L’Originale that set the ball rolling for a string of innovations… Two years later, they created the world record for the slimmest tourbillon with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon—also paving the way for the ‘art of miniaturistion’. Over the past decade, the brand’s quest for slimness and fine mechanics, spearheaded by a distinct design DNA has made Bulgari a force to reckon with in the haute horlogerie sphere; after all, it’s no mean feat to set nine records in 10 years—including the world’s slimmest three-hand watch and the slimmest automatic chronograph.

And 2024 is an important milestone for the brand as they celebrate 140 glorious years of fine craftsmanship, technical supremacy, and groundbreaking design, which has resulted in some iconic creations. For this, Bulgari have introduced a unique work of art—the Octo Finissimo Sketch—a timepiece with an illustrated dial that recreates the movement’s exposed side, when viewed through an exhibition caseback. This is available in three versions—two automatic models created in stainless-steel or 18-karat rose gold, and the other iteration being a chronograph GMT crafted in steel. Read on for more details:

Blending technical mastery with artistic expression, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sketch is like a work of art on the wrist. The sketch of the movement also reveals the soul of the timepiece right though the dial, without even having to turn the watch over. The Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch series will be available in two limited editions—280 pieces in stainless-steel and 70 in rose gold. The dial mirrors the movement in a detailed representation including—the micro-rotor, escapement, bridges, rubies, and intricate finishing details such as Côtes de Genève and circular graining. The rose-gold version looks stately with its rich hue and the sketch pops up on the dial in black. The steel iteration looks a bit more contemporary and the shades of grey are quite dominant here. Both models come with polished and satin-finished cases and bracelets, which vouch for the brand’s attention-to-detail philosophy. The watches measure 40mm in diameter and 6.4mm in slimness, and are driven by the in-house automatic BVL 138 calibre which is 2.3mm in height and supplies a power reserve of at least 60 hours. The sapphire caseback is etched with ‘EDIZIONE LIMITATA’ and ‘1884 – 2024’ to commemorate Bulgari’s 140th anniversary.

The rose-gold version looks stately with its rich hue and the sketch pops up on the dial in black. The steel iteration looks a bit more contemporary and the shades of grey are quite dominant here

The watches measure 40mm in diameter and 6.4mm in slimness, and are driven by the in-house automatic BVL 138 calibre which is 2.3mm in height and supplies a power reserve of 60 hours

The second model, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch is a fine specimen of art in the ‘Mechanics of Time’. Limited to just 140 pieces, this 43mm watch comes in a polished steel case with a slimness of 8.75mm—an elegant framework to house the GMT chronograph complications. The automatic manufacture movement with a peripheral oscillating weight supplies a minimum of 55 hours of power reserve.

This stems from the watch’s record-breaking thinness in 2019, incorporating a movement measuring a mere 3.3mm in height that not only includes a 30-minute chronograph and central seconds but also displays a second time zone at three o’clock. The sketch on the dial showcases the Tri-Compax chronograph display—GMT at three o’clock, 30-minute counter at six o’clock, and small seconds at nine o’clock—along with a balance represented between four and five o’clock, the column wheel at eight o’clock, and the outstanding finishing details on the bridges and gears.