ReviewBulgari’s Serpenti Spiga: The Reinvigorated Roman Icon

Bulgari’s enduring icon rises with every new additions to its Serpenti collection, just like this recent iteration of the Serpenti Spiga series. The serpent sheds its skin and makes a renewed debut, this time to combine a stylish matelassé pattern with Bulgari’s beautiful jewellery design. The Serpenti Spiga novelties showcase Bulgari’s craftsmanship, and what sets these new watches apart from the existing collections is the use of diamonds and fine rose- or white-gold. This impeccable collection seamlessly blends aesthetics and mechanics, making the Serpenti Spiga not just a seductive and functional piece of jewellery, but also extremely wearable.

Serpenti is one of Bulgari’s most persistent and distinguished themes—it symbolises a mystical snake that stands for endless regeneration. Snakes represent wisdom, rebirth and vigour. The brand has won over hearts by releasing newer editions to this beloved series—what could be better than having more options to choose from? A true classic, the iconic Bulgari Serpenti has transformed over the years, recreating itself, much like a snake shedding its skin time and time again. But the fundamental idea of the jewellery-watch is still the same.

Spiga: The Enduring Symbol Of Style

With the introduction of this exquisite design, the brand established itself as a trend-setter. The Bulgari Serpenti has gained a cult status since the 1940s, for combining the criteria of a watch and a piece of jewellery. Since these snakes made their debut at Bulgari with the Serpenti collection, they have taken on various guises, but their most recognisable form is that of the multi-wrap bracelet, which is available with or without watches. A mesmerising seductive quality permeates the Serpenti aesthetic. With its peculiar style—which was influenced by the body and head of a snake—the Serpenti, one of Bulgari’s earliest collections, helped to establish the brand in the public eye.

The Serpenti line was built on what was initially perceived as a watch that looked like a serpent coiling around a person’s wrist

Since snakes made their debut at Bulgari with the Serpenti collection, they have taken on various guises, but their most recognisable form is that of the multi-wrap bracelet, seen in jewellery and watches

BVLGARI Serpenti Spiga SHOP THE COLLECTION

The Serpenti line was built on what was initially perceived as a watch that looked like a serpent coiling around a person’s wrist. Instead of looking menacing, the snake appeared elegant and distinctive—seductive even. The idea of a snake on one’s wrist implied boldness and audacity. If there was one thing that set off the explosion in Bulgari’s success and the Serpenti’s fame, it was the decision to shoot the film Cleopatra in Rome. During the filming of one of her most well-known roles, actress Elizabeth Taylor was famously seen wearing the Serpenti timepiece. Taylor was one of Bulgari’s most well-known customers at the time, and when her Bulgari jewellery collection was ultimately sold at an auction, it set new records. Ever since then, Bulgari has charmed the wrists of women all across the world.

Romance Of The Times

The new Serpenti Spiga editions are the latest wrapping bracelet watches in a saga that began with the Serpenti Scaglie in 2009, and continued with the Serpenti Tubogas in 2010. The original Serpenti Spiga designs were introduced in 2014, representing an evolution of the Serpenti style that could only come from the Roman ‘jeweller of time’. They illustrate Bulgari’s unique ability to push the limits of imagination, style, and knowledge.

These latest Serpenti renditions draw influence from a vintage watch from 1957. The new jewellery watches consist of a single-coiled 18-karat rose gold model, two double-coiled rose gold version, and a double-coiled 18-karat white gold high jewellery piece. These models are studded with diamonds, blending the boldness of Serpenti and the legend of Spiga, the Italian term for ‘wheat’, the pattern it is inspired by. While the white gold version is the Bulgari Serpenti Spiga ‘high jewellery’ because it is entirely encrusted in diamonds, the rose gold versions with a black, white and malachite dial feature a similar diamond setting on the bezel and the bracelet. This enchanting diamond display on the new bracelet design sets the series apart from the existing novelties, and holds the wearer in a seductive embrace.

Jewelled Functionality Of Spiga

The high jewellery white version is decorated with 257 snow pave-set diamonds within its dial, and its bezel is set with 205 brilliant cut diamonds

The dazzling diamond-studded dials are available in white mother of pearl, lacquered black, and malachite, and a diamond studded white high-jewellery version. Since the lacquering gives a glossy shine and opulent finish, and the beauty, luxury, and power of the malachite are so striking, the glistening dials appear effortlessly lavish. The white mother-of-pearl dial, and the black and malachite dials have 38 diamonds studded on their bezel. The high jewellery white version is decorated with 257 snow pave-set diamonds within its dial, and its bezel is set with 205 brilliant cut diamonds.

With its abstract wheat stalk pattern etched into the bracelet itself, the coiling timepiece, while modern in design and purely Roman in its deep symbolism, reflects the idea of infinity. The two-row 18-karat white-gold bracelet of the high jewellery timepiece is set with 425 brilliant-cut diamonds, whereas both the single and two-row 18-karat rose-gold bracelets are adorned with 281 diamonds.

Roman numerals are carefully placed inside the 'snake’s head', lending a elegant look to the Bulgari Serpenti collection that departs from traditional watchmaking practices

With its abstract wheat stalk pattern etched into the bracelet itself, the coiling timepiece, while modern in design and purely Roman in its deep symbolism, reflects the idea of infinity

BVLGARI Serpenti Spiga SHOP THE COLLECTION

Aside from its elegant aesthetics, the Serpenti Spiga, which has a quartz movement built in Switzerland, maintains accurate time inside its 35mm casing. Adding another dash of Bulgari flair, the crowns on the Serpenti Spiga models have a carbochon-cut blue sapphire or rubellite set on them. Roman numerals are carefully placed inside the snake’s head, lending a subdued look to the Bulgari Serpenti collection that departs from traditional watchmaking practices.

Spiga: Moulded To The Wrist

The brand’s unique design formats and gem-setting is a result of their in-house knowledge and skill. The white- and rose-gold iterations of the Bulgari Serpenti Spiga line combine the traditional jewellery-casting techniques with exemplary mechanics to produce designs that successfully integrate guise and purpose. Each item is a result of focused craftsmanship that was created with fervour and expertise. The single-row watches have 40 links made from as many different moulds, whereas the two-row bracelets have 70 different components. To achieve the necessary supple finish, the parts are assembled around an internal flexible spring, without the use of a solder. Links interlock precisely to create a flexible band, which is then moulded into bracelet watches that comfortably and flawlessly fit the wrist.

BVLGARI Serpenti Spiga SHOP THE COLLECTION

While this process sounds simple enough, it took Buonamassa Stigliani, director of the Bulgari watches design centre, and his team, two whole years to standardise the methods employed in its creation. Bulgari has the capacity to design watches that demonstrate how a watch’s exterior can be just as intricate as its interior.

It took Buonamassa Stigliani, director of the Bulgari watches design centre, and his team, two whole years to standardise the methods employed in its creation

The Bulgari Serpenti collection is a stylish and striking line of timepieces that captures the attention of onlookers. In the world of Bulgari’s watches, the fabled Serpenti wrapping bracelet timepieces represent the height of jewelled creativity. This complex Serpenti Spiga series is a representation of how the house would like to display its precious metals and stones. There is definitely more to the Serpenti Spiga design than meets the eye.