Q&ACarl F. Bucherer Launch Their Most Complicated Timepiece At Watches And Wonders 2021—CEO Sascha Moeri Talks About The Latest From The Brand
With the first minute repeater watch they’ve made, Carl F. Bucherer have also taken forward their support for marine life and the manta ray this year. Find out what these new watches have to offer, while CEO Sascha Moeri gives us his inputs on the new highlights
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Fine mechanical watchmaking has now become all about pushing the boundaries of innovation when it comes to mechanisms and materials, while also playing to one’s strengths, since it’s far from being simply about keeping time anymore. So when a maison such as Carl F. Bucherer have excelled in an area where few others have, why shouldn’t they take their achievement forward—especially if it takes their mechanical innovation to a third level! And with the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, they have done just that. Of course, it’s the most beautiful complication, and it offers an enhanced sensory experience of fine watchmaking, so creating a minute repeater alone is quite the achievement. However, to take the opportunity to add a peripheral element to the complication makes it all the more special. After seeing tremendous success with the peripherally-mounted oscillating mass of the Manero Peripheral, and the peripherally-suspended ‘floating’ tourbillon of its successor, Carl F. Bucherer are now giving us a minute repeater of the peripheral variety. This time, the minute repeater has a peripherally-mounted regulator, in addition to the peripheral winding rotor and the floating tourbillon.
Partnerships And Causes Go Forward
On the façade, everything is very symmetrically presented, with the chiming gongs seen on the lower end of the white gold dial, with a grained finish that gives it freshness and immense character. The chime of the repeater has even inspired a composition by the Lucerne Festival Orchestra, with whom Carl F. Bucherer have announced a partnership, which also celebrates the brand’s hometown Lucerne—an intrinsic part of their DNA.
Another partnership that goes forward this year for Carl F. Bucherer is one that they’ve nurtured for a while now—the one with the UK-based Manta Trust. Supporting their work in helping protect the manta ray since 2017, Carl F. Bucherer, this year, have extended that involvement to the Trust’s research in the Indian Ocean, to further their work for the sea creature’s survival. To mark this new stage of the collaboration, they have launched the new blue Patravi ScubaTec Maldives edition, which is the third Manta Trust ScubaTec timepiece.
While Carl F. Bucherer will help with funding for a ‘floating research station’ for the manta rays of the Maldives, proceeds from the sales of this watch will also go towards the cause of the Trust. The elegant dial presents a pattern that is reminiscent of the graceful creature’s silhouette, while a blue strap and bezel complete the colour scheme.
Building On Success Stories
The brand have also extended another successful series with a third edition. After the acclaimed Heritage BiCompax Annual watch—with its chronograph and annual calendar—in champagne hues, and one with a panda dial, they’ve now come out with an ‘inverse panda’ or ‘orca’ dial. The black-and-white look of this edition presents the same striking contrast of the panda predecessor, and is sure to be as successful.
Before Watches and Wonders, Carl F. Bucherer’s CEO, Sacha Moeri had a word with us, and told us about the new Heritage BiCompax, which will sadly still be a limited edition of 888 pieces. He also elaborated on the triple-peripheral achievement, and their admirable resolve to continue to support work that helps protect marine life. Here are excerpts from our conversation.
What are the highlights of Carl F. Bucherer’s novelties at Watches and Wonders?
We have quite a few amazing novelties. The Heritage BiCompax has been such a success for us. We’re really proud of it, and now we’re introducing a new ‘orca’ edition, which is also limited to 888 pieces, like the previous two editions that we launched in 2019.
We are also launching our most complicated watch yet, which is also one of the most complicated minute repeaters made. As you know, we achieved something with the Manero collection that a few have managed to, with the peripheral winding system of the Manero Peripheral. We then introduced a tourbillon to the series, and made a Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral. Now we’re going for a ‘triple peripheral’, bringing a minute repeater into the mix. This watch has a complete in-house movement that has been in development for about four years. It just took some time to get everything right, to get the optimum chiming sound, but we are finally ready to launch it.
Is the Heritage BiCompax Annual going to become a mainstay among the brand’s collections going forward?
Heritage is a main collection of Carl F. Bucherer’s. It’s a collection that can have a lot of variety, but always in limited numbers. Every model in the Heritage collection will be a limited edition. The Heritage BiCompax Annual is a watch that we based on the watches from the 1930s, 40s and 50s, and specifically a 1956 chronograph. It’s been a very special watch for us. It really pays tribute and homage to our traditions of watchmaking. And the interesting thing about the Heritage collection is that, unlike the other collections, we can do a lot of different things—anything we want to. The other collections have specific elements that we can’t change too much. The Manero, for instance has its signature indexes, and case design, and crown, etc. The Patravi, on the other hand, is a more sporty line that has its own signature traits. However, a watch from the Heritage line can be anything, without being limited to what a particular collection is all about. So whether it’s the BiCompax Annual or something else, the Heritage collection is a mainstay.
Should we expect to see the BiCompax Annual expand even more like the Manero Flyback series has over the years?
With the BiCompax Annual, we knew we were making a crowd-pleaser. The panda-dial version in particular is something that appeals to many. It’s a design that works on many levels and speaks to a number of people. With such a widely-loved design language, it also features a very useful complication—the annual calendar—making it a phenomenal watch. So, yes, it’s only natural that we are expanding the series now, with the new ‘orca’ edition, which is the reverse-panda iteration. And of course, there is scope to do a lot more, even in ladies-specific editions. And I can imagine a lot of colour as well. You see, when I visited India, it was during the Ganesh festival in Mumbai, and it was fascinating to see that kind of energy and all the colours. I felt inspired by it, and I can definitely imagine special colourful editions of our watches that reflect that energy.
What can you tell us about the ScubaTec Manta editions and your partnership with the Manta Trust?
The ScubaTec Manta watches have been really special for us, and they represent our work with the Manta Trust, whom we continue to work with. They also represent initiatives towards cleaner oceans, with the strap made from recycled plastic retrieved from the ocean. We are constantly involved in projects in association with the Manta Trust, and this Maldives project is just the latest. It’s an association that will continue.
Along with sustainable materials, how do you incorporate other major trends, such as bronze or interchangeability of straps, for which there is a great demand?
The most important thing as a brand is to stay true to who we are. One can adapt to the changing trends or the demands of the day, but without changing one’s DNA or the essence of who one is. The things you mention are indeed very huge right now. Another big trend is customisation. People want that exclusivity in their timepieces—something that’s been altered to their liking. And it’s something that’s in demand, especially in the luxury space. We are also trying to increase the kind of customisation that we offer, not necessarily in the main collections, but in special pieces, such as the Manero Peripheral minute repeater. Maybe someone wants visible bridges in gold or platinum. It’s things like this that can be done on request, to customise the product. The main idea is to incorporate any trends, just as long as it makes sense for us, and aligns with our message.
How has the pandemic impacted your launch plans and other creative decisions in the last year?
The COVID-19 pandemic has definitely changed people’s buying behaviour. And it’s made things rather complicated. It has changed the way people discover products and identify what might interest them. They’re spending a lot more time on the web. So it’s become a lot more important for us to put ourselves out there and have a strong online presence.
Has there been a shift in the mood since the pandemic—are people’s preferences in watches changing?
The year 2020 was a challenging year for sure. We took a huge hit, as our brand relies on the parent company Bucherer—the retail chain. All the stores across every region were closed for months and months. So it impacted us in a big way. Things are looking up now, and it will take time to bounce back completely, but we are very hopeful for 2022. This is especially because people are interested in different things now. It’s not just about trends in sizes or steel or gold. They’re interested in real craftsmanship, true values, and a brand’s background. They want to buy into a substantial history, and they want to know what the company are doing. They want sustainable products and those that represent lasting value.
What’s the future of fine mechanical watchmaking in your opinion, since these products are now less utilitarian than they’ve ever been?
It’s a bright future. Even if there are fewer companies doing it, it’s those who are doing a good job and playing their cards right that will have that bright future. Mechanical innovation and craftsmanship are the things that are emerging stronger than ever now, and I’m very positive about this. Watchmakers aren’t merely employees on the bench. They are artists who bring to life objects of beauty. And there are specialised artists even—the Picassos of our world, the talented and skilled people behind watches like the minute repeater. These are the values that are taking us forward. I am very positive about a bright future. You see, in 2019, our numbers were five times greater than in 2010, and that period was the real game-changer. Yet we grew. So, yes, the future is bright.
