FeatureClash of the Icons: Aviation Watches – Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator VS Breitling Navitimer 01

We are back with the fourth edition of the “Clash of the Icons” and we could not be more excited about this one. If you haven’t already read up on our epic “Battle Series” just click here to catch up. Like always, we will be taking two watches and comparing them crown to crown and decide which one of the two would be a better investment. For the fourth edition of the Clash of the Icons, we have chosen aviation watches, better known as pilot’s watches. We will be comparing all aspects of the two pilot’s watches in question and help you make an informed decision vis a vis your investment (after all, that’s what we’re here for).

But before we get into the nitty-gritties of the battle, let us first understand what makes a watch an aviation watch:

A Brief History of Pilots Watches

Aviation is rightly called one of “humankind’s greatest technological feats” and similarly, aviation watches too are considered among the most historically rich watches. Both represent mankind’s power of invention and passion.

The first pilots watch – the Santos, dates back to 1904. Worn by Alberto Santos-Dumont, it was at this time that the wristwatch (which was first introduced by Patek Philippe but was mainly worn by the womenfolk) became a mainstream men’s watch. The watch was created by Mr Dumont’s close friend Louis Cartier from the Parisian jewellery and watch powerhouse Cartier. The idea struck him when he heard his friend complaining about how much of a nuisance it was to keep reading the time off a pocket watch while flying.

After the success of Alberto Santos-Dumont and the Wright Brother’s aeronautical expedition, the golden age of aviation was ushered in with immense hope and expectation. Likewise, the trajectory of pilot’s watches also took a major turn when Louis Bleriot made his first flight across the English Channel with a Zenith watch strapped on his wrist. This notable flight not only established Zenith as the premier pilots watch in France but globally positioned pilot’s watches as a crucial element in the cockpit.

Since then, the aeronautical prowess of watch brands has led to the introduction of aviation themed masterpieces. From the Hour Angle watch, also known as, Longines Lindberg (adorning the wrist of Charles Lindberg – the first man to make a solo trans-Atlantic flight in 1927) to the B-Uhr (a watch which during World War II, helped German soldiers locate areas to drop bombs), pilot’s watches were here to stay.

What Constitutes a Pilot’s Watch?

Before we get into the different features and specifications of a pilot’s watch, it is imperative to understand that the look and style of the watch are as important as the actual functionality. Hence, from an aesthetic point of view, a big crown with a highly legible dial and clear, huge hour markers, is a place to start. Usually big in size, pilot watches typically feature a large open dial look with easy to read hands and a small seconds sub-dial or a traditional seconds hand. While most of the pilots watches constitute similar features as mentioned above, many also incorporate a multitude of functions that can be used when flying, eg., a chronograph to time a flight and a slide rule bezel for aviation related calculations.

Today for the fourth edition of the “Clash of the Icons”, we are going to compare two pilot’s watches: the Breitling Navitimer and the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator. Both these watches are arguably among the few timepieces that not just feature your typical pilot’s watch aesthetics but also offer definitive aviation centric functions. An interesting combination of looks and functions, both the watches are extremely overqualified. Therefore, while comparing them will be easy, choosing a winner will be no easy feat!

A little brief about both the watches:

Starting off with the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator. It is a watch that is heavily inspired by the legendary Bell X-1 aircraft of 1947. With its distinctive bullet shape and huge rocket drive, the Bell X-1 till date is a legendary aircraft that was the first manned aircraft to break the sound barrier. What is truly amazing about this story is that the Bell X-1 achieved this great feat way before the advent of computers and pocket calculators! Oris celebrated this historic moment with the introduction of the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator with a chronograph.

The second watch we are featuring today is the Breitling Navitimer 01. A legendary pilot’s chronograph with an integrated flight computer – the Breitling Navitimer 01 is a cult classic. Since its inception in 1952, the watch has consistently distinguished itself especially when it comes to the timepiece’s aeronautical and aesthetic appeal. It was the first wristwatch to adorn the “Aircraft Owners and Pilot’s Association” (AOPA) emblem on the dial.

So now that you have an idea about the two watches being featured here, without further ado, let the clash begin and may the best watch win.

1) USP- The Unique Selling Point of the Watch 

When it comes to offering a unique function, we can to a great extent call this one a “tie”. Because one of the most outstanding feature of both the watches is the presence of a slide rule bezel. Arguably the most distinct feature of a pilot’s watch, the circular slide rule scale present on the inner part of the bezel was made popular by Breitling in the 1950s. Coming from an era of pre-calculator times, the circular slide bezel is a feature very few people are familiar with nowadays. Hence, making the two watches rare and immensely fascinating.

What does the slide rule bezel do? It allows the watch to make a number of “pilot-appropriate calculations.” From metric to standard conversions to the speed, distance and fuel consumption measurements. The only drawback of the scale would be the complicated process of calculation and conversion or the know-how of using it. Additionally, both the watches also feature a chronograph function that has proven to be a very useful offering especially for pilots across the world.

Apart from the various similar functions, what lies under the hood of both the watches could actually sway a watch lovers attention or more importantly preference. The Oris Big Crown X-1 Calculator is powered by a Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement whereas the Breitling Navitimer 01 features the iconic in-house Breitling 01 movement. The 01 Manufacture movement offers a quick date change feature along with a 70-hour power reserve. Reaching new heights with a classic column-wheel chronograph design, with the 01 calibre, the Breitling Navitimer 01 makes its mark on the league of true timepiece manufactures.

2) User Friendliness:

While there is no doubt that the Breitling Navitimer is an out and out pilots watch, when it comes to user-friendliness, the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator offers more. How? It has legibility written all over it. This is a problem Breitling has been facing since the inception of the Navitimer. When it comes to the functional part of the watch, the Breitling Navitimer is exceptional. However, when it comes down to actually reading the watch, the scales on the Navitimer are too small. Even after changing the size of the case from 40mm (1950s model) to 43mm, the problem of legibility never really went away. There is just too much happening on the dial of the Navitimer 01. From the slide rule scale, chronograph sub-dials, date window and tachymeter scale, the dial houses so much data that it could easily confuse the wearer. Additionally, the silver hour and minutes hands do not provide much contrast against the silver sub dials making legibility even more difficult.

The Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator, on the other hand, apart from offering various pilot-centric functions also satisfies the aesthetics of a pilots watch. Despite offering the same features as that of the Breitling Navitimer, the black dial of the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator looks clean, sorted and easy to read at a glance. Featuring white, bold hour and minute hands and a combination of Arabic numerals and simple white strokes as hour markers, the dial makes an impression with just a glance. The highly legible chronograph sub dials along with a uniquely placed day display next to the small second’s subdial (at 9 o’clock), allow the dial to arrest the attention of the wearer almost immediately. Framing the dial is the immaculately designed white slide rule scale residing on the outer circumference of the black dial. The knurled bezel and a “big crown” allow the wearer to operate the watch with much ease and less hassle. All these features and attention to detail definitely make the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator a true winner when it comes to user friendliness.

3) Comfort:

After investing considerable time and money on acquiring a timepiece, it is a no-brainer that the watch (despite all its complications and features) should inevitably be a comfortable watch to wear. Considering this, both the watches are definitely on the bulkier side of the spectrum with the Breitling Navitimer at 43mm and the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator at 46mm. However, the fact that both come equipped with leather straps (dark brown for Oris and black for Breitling) does make a huge difference in the way they sit on the wrist. The leather straps allows the rather large cases to sit comfortably and snugly on the wrist.

However, while both the watches do feel comfortable once strapped on the wrist, the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator given its larger size (46mm) and a rather big crown does fall short from the level of comfort one would achieve with the Breitling. Even with a 43mm case size and an interhorn width of 22/20mm, the Breitling Navitimer 01 makes for a comfortable fit. The black calf leather strap is soft and nicely padded and with the presence of a folding clasp, adjusting the strap is easy and quick.

4) Value for Money:

The Breitling Navitimer 01 retails in India for approximately Rs. 535,410. A rather steep price? But what you get in return is an extremely unique, in-house reliable movement offering the basic and most distinctive features of a typical pilot’s watch, from a brand that needs no background check.

However, the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator, on the other hand, is priced at Rs 225,000, less than half the price of the Breitling, while offering similar features. Hence, when it comes to giving more bang for the buck, the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator definitely makes the cut. Offering similar functions to that of the Breitling Navitimer 01, the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator combines technical innovation with well thought-out design details that are not easily available at this price point. And considering that Oris has a rich history dating back to 1904 (113 years to be precise), you’re getting a great professional tool watch from a reliable and established brand with an expertise in aviation and master watchmaking. Seals the deal if you ask us.

Final Verdict:

While both watches can be defined as the crème de la crème of the world of pilot’s watches, when it comes to making a ‘value for money’ purchase, I believe the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator is the preferred choice. While both the watches offer the same functions of a chronograph, a date display and the incorporation of a slide rule scale on the bezel, Oris has an upper hand with its high legibility ratio, sound aesthetics and a more approachable price. So even though Breitling has a longstanding history of building state-of-the-art pilots watches, it falls short in key respects when compared with the Oris Big Crown X-1 Calculator.

The watches featured above are available at Ethos Watch Boutiques.

What did you think of our comparison? Do you agree with our choice? Which watch would you buy? If you have any further suggestion for the 5th edition of our “Clash of the Icons”, we are listening. Let us know in the comments section below!