Round-UpThe Economical Ocean Plunge: Dive Watches Priced Under INR 5 Lakh

The horological world first began developing water-resistant watches in the 1920s, with the Rolex Oyster, Omega Marine and Panerai Radomir, as the pioneering models. By the time recreational diving as a sport peaked in the 1950s, it became easier for watch brands to ride the wave as they had already made technological advancements in underwater safety. Soon, the horological market saw a spurt of dive watches such as the Rolex Submariner, Breitling Superocean, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, etc. And their updated versions still continue to be made, as the collections prevail. At present, professional dive watches are priced high for their features such as a water resistance of 300m or more, accuracy of ±30 seconds per day despite magnetic fields, high shock resistance, a unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert to track lapsed minutes and pending oxygen, and luminous indices, hands, minute tracker, etc to read time in feeble light or total darkness underwater, and meets the ISO 6425 international standard for dive watches. However, some high-end brands have bucked the genre by launching more pocket-friendly models with the same high-quality features. Here’s a list of professional dive watches priced under INR 5 lakh with the above requirements.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Orange Diver

The Professional 300 Diver model from the Aquaracer series stands out for its bright orange dial—a loud contrast against deep blue waters—and luminescent hour markers, hands and a ceramic insert on the unidirectional rotating dive-timer bezel. Enclosed in the 43mm case is the calibre 5 that offers a power reserve of upto 38 hours and beats at 28,8000vph. This automatic watch is entirely made from sturdy stainless steel with a classic steel bracelet, and overall offers about 300m of water resistance. The caseback is engraved with a vintage diving helmet.

Breitling Superocean

The 42mm Breitling Superocean iterations come in diverse dial colours of blue, green, black, white, and others. The watch runs on an automatic movement offering a 38-hour power reserve. With a stainless steel body and glare-resistant cambered sapphire crystal on both sides, the case ensures 300m of water resistance. The unidirectional rotating ceramic-inlayed bezel on this watch carries non-uniform minute markings—generally in one minute intervals for the first 15 minutes. A classic dive watch staple, the chunky indices and uniquely shaped hands filled with Super-Luminova enhance legible reading of time. There’s a choice between a rubber strap and metal bracelet with a folding clasp; both extendable upto 15mm for easy adjustability over wetsuits.

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

The iconic Seamaster Diver 300M, since it was first launched in 1993, is a force to reckon with in the dive watch segment. The 42mm stainless steel model comes in the classic black and white versions, cradled by a matching ceramic bezel embossed with a white enamel diving scale. The latest, 2022 model is in green. One can tell this is a dive watch, looking at its polished ceramic dial featuring laser-engraved waves. Other diving indications on the dial, apart from a date aperture at six o’clock, includes rhodium-plated skeleton hands and indexes that are filled with white Super-LumiNova. Viewable through the sapphire crystal caseback is the Omega Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 that has high anti-magnetic properties that can defy strong magnetic fields higher that 1.5 tesla (15,000 gauss). This feature ensures superior accuracy in keeping time underwater. An additional protective covering is the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal on the front and back. The watch comes attached to a sturdy rubber strap.

One can tell that the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 is a dive watch just by looking at its polished ceramic dial that features laser-engraved waves

₹5,45,900

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The 42 mm stainless steel model comes in the classic black, green, and white versions, cradled by a matching ceramic bezel embossed with a white enamel diving scale

₹5,45,900

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Other diving indications on the dial, apart from a date aperture at six o’clock, includes rhodium-plated skeleton hands and indexes that are filled with white Super-LumiNova

₹5,45,900

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Viewable through the sapphire-crystal caseback, is the Omega Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 that has high anti-magnetic properties that can defy strong magnetic fields higher that 1.5 tesla (15,000 gauss)

₹5,45,900

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01

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton

Skeletal dials are rare in the dive watch segment, so this Rado Captain Cook model deserves a special mention. The original Captain Cook watch ticked all the boxes required for a good dive watch: 300m of water resistance, a stainless steel case, and a unidirectional-rotating bezel. This model doesn’t disappoint either, offering the same amount of water resistance due a combination of sturdy materials and a sapphire crystal caseback. The monobloc case is constructed in matt plasma high-tech ceramic and fixed with a unidirectional bezel made from rose gold PVD-coated stainless steel. Rose gold lacquered numbers, markers and triangle complete the bezel. This model has lume-applied diver indices and timekeeping hands. The watch is attached to a plasma high-tech ceramic bracelet featuring links alternating with matt and polished finishing.

The unidirectional bezel in the monobloc case of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton is made from rose gold PVD-coated stainless steel

₹4,15,500

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Unlike most openworked dials, this model has lume applied diver indices and watch hands

₹4,15,500

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The watch is attached to a plasma high-tech ceramic bracelet with alternating links in matt and polished finishes

₹4,15,500

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01

Longines HydroConquest

The HydroConquest line from the Longines Sport collection fits the category of a classic tool-style dive watch. Offering water resistance up to 300m is the 43mm stainless steel case, which sports a ceramic bezel, and scratch-resistant, antireflective sapphire crystal on both sides. Ensuring a 72-hour power reserve is the automatic calibre L888 that beats at 25,200vph. The silver-polished hands and Arabic numerals plus indices on the sunray dial are coated with Super-LumiNova. The watch comes attached to a stainless steel bracelet ending with double-safety folding clasp, with an option of extension to ensure compatibility with wrist size.

The HydroConquest line from Longines Sport collection fits the category of a classic tool-style dive watch

₹1,97,000

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The 43mm stainless steel case sports a ceramic bezel with scratch-resistant, anti-reflective sapphire crystals on both sides

₹1,97,000

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The 43mm stainless steel case sports a ceramic bezel with scratch-resistant, anti-reflective sapphire crystals on both sides

₹1,97,000

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The silver polished hands and Arabic numerals plus indices on the sunray dial are applied with Super-LumiNova

₹1,97,000

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01

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Brown Bronze

Celebrating the tradition of bronze watches, the BR 03-92 diver series was initially launched with steel models. However, the brand later bucked the trend to go with bronze, to go on and embrace the delightfully unpredictable route the alloy takes when it starts ageing and patina sets in. A round 42mm frame sits atop the square case, with a complete thickness of 12.05mm. It draws one’s attention to the satin-finished and polished CuSn8 bronze surfaces that are a striking contrast against the brown dial, bezel and calfskin leather strap. Continuing the contrast is the brown unidirectional-rotating dive-timer scale in anodised aluminium. The lume applied baton hands and diver indices are traits of a typical diving watch dial. An engraving of a diving helmet graces the stainless steel caseback. This automatic mechanical watch is powered by calibre BR-CAL.302. With the crown guard and antireflective sapphire crystal, the watch is water-resistant up to 300m.

The Bell & Ross Diver series initially launched steel models, but later bucked the trend to go with bronze, and embrace the delightfully unpredictable route the metal would take when it starts ageing and patina sets in

₹4,50,000

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The round 42mm case atop the cushion-shaped case is 12.05mm thick, but draws attention to its satin-finished and polished CuSn8 bronze surfaces that are a striking contrast to the brown dial, bezel and calfskin leather strap

₹4,50,000

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The lume applied baton hands and diver indices are traits of a typical diving watch dial

₹4,50,000

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An engraving of a diving helmet graces the stainless steel caseback

₹4,50,000

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01

Raymond Weil Freelancer Diver Geneva

This 42.5mm Raymond Weil watch pays tribute to Lac Léman or Lake Geneva in Geneva, the city of the brand’s origin, with a number of features: a cool blue dial, a water resistance of 310m and a limited edition of 310 pieces. the number ‘310’ indicates the maximum height of the lake, while an engraving on the caseback, featuring the lake’s Jet d’Eau fountain, takes forward this tribute to the centre piece of the city of Geneva . This automatic watch from the noted Freelancer Diver series runs on the self-winding calibre RW4200 that has a 38-hour power reserve. Atop the stainless steel case is a black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute dive scale in grey with a lume indicator. A screwed-down fluted crown engraved with the RW monogram and a screw-down caseback plus the antiglare sapphire crystal help ensure the high water resistance as promised. Aside from the barrel hour and minute hands and indices that are applied with Super-LumiNova, a drop-shaped date window at six o’clock lends a certain uniqueness to the model. Completing the look is a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp as double-push security system and extension for adjusting the strap according to wrist size.

Aside the barrel hour and minute hands and indices applied with Super-LumiNova, a drop-shaped date window at six o’clock lends a certain uniqueness to the Raymond Weil model

₹2,30,000

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Atop the stainless steel case is a black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute dive scale in grey with a lume indicator

₹2,30,000

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This 42.5mm Raymond Weil watch pays tribute to Lac Léman or Lake Geneva in Geneva, the city of its origin, and among its number of features has an engraving case of the Jet d’Eau fountain on the caseback

₹2,30,000

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01

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Venturer 43mm

This Aikon Venturer is the updated version of an earlier quartz model from 2016 and the automatic one launched in 2018. At 43mm the stainless steel case houses the automatic calibre ML 115, which beats at 28,800vph or 4Hz, offering a 38-hour power reserve. The three-handed watch has a classic black sunbrushed dial displaying diver indices, and these elements are applied with Super-LumiNova to help read time clearly in pitch dark conditions underwater. A small date aperture replaces the three o’clock index. Cradling the dial is a black unidirectional 60-minute bezel highlighting 10-minute intervals against a grey background. The watch is attached to a stainless steel bracelet ending in a butterfly clasp.

The Aikon Venturer dive watch is the updated version of the earlier quartz model in 2016 and the automatic one in 2018

₹2,11,000

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The three-handed watch has a classic black sunbrushed dial displaying diver indices, and these elements are applied with Super-LumiNova to read time clearly in pitch dark conditions underwater

₹2,11,000

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Cradling the dial is a black unidirectional 60-minute bezel highlighting 10-minute intervals against a grey background

₹2,11,000

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01

Oris Aquis Date Relief

Vivid cherry red dials are an uncommon sight in the segment of dive watches, which are in deep blue, green or black or in brighter hues, so the Oris Aquis Date Relief is a pleasant surprise. The 41.5mm case houses the calibre 733, which is based on the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement that beats at 28,800vph or 4Hz, offering a power reserve of 38 hours. The highly polished stainless steel case, domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal on both sides, and screw-down crown with protection, render the watch water-resistant upto 300m. The stainless steel bezel insert has a diving scale set in relief. The indices and three-hand setup on the sunray dial of this tool-style dive watch are applied with Super-LumiNova. A final addition to the sturdy exterior is tapering three-link steel bracelet ending with an inventive extension system by Oris.

In a first for the brand itself, the stainless steel bezel insert of the cherry-dial Oris Aquis Date Relief has a diving scale set in relief

The 41.5mm case of the Oris Aquis Date Relief houses the Calibre Oris 733, which is the Sellita SW200-1 that is visible from the caseback

Oris Aquis

₹2,25,000

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Doxa Army

To celebrate the 50-year milestone of launching the original Doxa Army watch and association with the Swiss Army Divers unit, the brand unveiled the latest versions of the Doxa Army with various bezel options. Among them, one bezel is in steel with a black ceramic insert, while another has a bronze rim, framing the hunter green ceramic insert. The 42.50mm case in 316L stainless steel with sapphire crystal, plus screw-down crown and screw-down caseback, renders the watch water-resistant up to 300m. For the first time, in two of these models, Doxa have used bronze in the unidirectional-rotating bezel. The dial harks back to the original vintage dive models made for the army, with the sand-beige matt centre and a graphic chapter ring with bold black rectangular markers, a monochrome minute track, and beige and white hour indexes. The hands and hours markers are coated with a Super-LumiNova for good legibility underwater. There are two strap options: a stainless steel ‘beads of rice’ bracelet ending in a folding clasp, a rubber option with the Doxa fish symbol, plus an additional NATO strap featuring the camouflage pattern on the Swiss Army field uniform.

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