Round-UpThe Finest New Novelties Launched At Dubai Watch Week 2023
An event that is fast becoming almost as important as the Swiss watch fairs, Dubai Watch Week now has over 60 brands exhibiting. Taking place from November 16 to 20 this year, this edition of the fair has seen an overwhelmingly large volume of brand-new novelties being unveiled, and not just for the UAE, but for the brands’ global markets. Here we take a look at a few of the finest watches being showcased at Dubai Watch Week 2023
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Armin Strom Tribute 1 Fumé
The Tribute 1 Fumé timepieces differ from the brand’s previous Tribute 1 California edition primarily in terms of the hour markers on the off-centred and coloured dials. With clean line markers for indexes, the fumé effect of the ‘burgundy’, ‘sky’, ‘ocean’ and ‘slate’ timekeeping sub-dials shine against the hand-guilloche dials. The sunray-brushing on the sub-dials darkens to almost black around the periphery, creating a beautiful frame for the colours displayed against the three-dimensional pattern of the anthracite-coloured background. These traditional watchmaking techniques combine with an innovative ‘motor barrel’ displayed on the dial, which offers a 100-hour power reserve to the manual-winding AMW21 manufacture calibre.
Arnold & Son Time Pyramid Rose Gold And Platinum Aventurine
A signature timepiece from Arnold & Son, the Time Pyramid gets a glittering and even more precious touch at Dubai Watch Week 2023. With a distinctive, vertically-aligned movement—which takes a pyramid-esque shape—this edition of the Time Pyramid uses aventurine glass as a backdrop for the first time in the collection. On this backdrop is the A&S1615 manual-winding calibre, which offers an enormous power reserve of 90 hours, owing to the twin barrels, which are what lend the movement a pyramid structure. And it’s because of the two barrels that the watch has two power reserve indicators, seen at three and nine. The transparency of the piece is maintained by keeping the off-centred timekeeping dial also skeletonised, with an opal ring for the Roman numeral hour markers. All this is housed in a 42.5mm case made of red gold or platinum, with a caseback also in aventurine glass. While the red gold version is limited to 88 pieces, the platinum is even more exclusive, limited to 38.
Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum
Over the years, Bell & Ross have been on a quest to achieve great visibility when it comes to their watches and luminescence constitutes an important aspect, after all that’s what makes these timekeepers highly functional—whether at land, in air, or at sea. Their Dubai Watch Week novelty—the BR-X5 Green Lum is one of their most luminescent offerings till date, where the brand have taken it up a notch and have applied the concept of luminescence to the hands, numerals, indices, and the dial of this new timepiece, which comes in a 41mm case that glows in the dark, thanks to a composite material developed specially for Bell & Ross—the LM3D. This is made of quartz fibres that diffuse a powerful green luminescence. So, in the dark, the entire case is illuminated, highlighting the dial’s indications: hours, minutes, seconds, date, and power reserve. Even the case construction employs a multi-component technique to ensure maximum lightness for the chassis. Limited to 500 pieces, this unique conceptual art object is powered by the BR-CAL.323 calibre—a high-precision manufacture movement designed by Kenissi, with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, and is presented on a black rubber strap.
Bulgari Divas’ Dream Peacock
The Bulgari Divas’ Dream Peacock line, launched in 2017, expands with five new iterations that celebrate artisanal marquetry. Under the brand’s ‘Animali Fantastici’ category, which also houses their Serpenti collection, this new category is centred onto the iridescent feathered bird and inlaid using an Italian Renaissance technique that Bulgari mastered in the 1970s. The Divas’ Dream Peacock Feather Marquetry iteration covers the dial with fan-shaped motifs of 12 peacock feathers. In the Divas’ Dream Peacock Mother-of-Pearl Marquetry, the dial showcases a rose gold outlined peacock inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Set against diamond hour markers, the bird appears perched with fan-shaped feathers cascading across the dial. Two concentric discs indicating hours and minutes define the Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi dial. The rose gold dial, inlaid with snow-set diamonds, Roman malachite, and aventurine glass, defines the Divas’ Dream Peacock Precious Marquetry with Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes iteration. The ‘jumping hours’ aperture sits at 12 o’clock. The Divas’ Dream Peacock Diamonds in 18-karat rose gold sports a hand-painted peacock-shaped decorative motif composed of 14 different colours. These iterations run on the BVL 308 calibre, beating at 28,800vph and offering a 42-hour power reserve.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Titanium
It comes as no surprise that Carl F. Bucherer have chosen the Manero family to represent the brand at this year’s edition of Dubai Watch Week. And to mark the occasion, the Lucerne-based watchmaker have created a unique piece that comes in a titanium case—a first for this line. The Manero Minute Repeater is a work of watchmaking excellence as it combines the durability of titanium along with the finesse of 18-karat white gold, thanks to the dial crafted in this precious metal. It is also finished in a grained pattern, with rose-gold hands and index markers, which give it a stylish yet understated appeal, without looking over-the-top. Measuring 48.3mm, the watch is a ‘Triple Peripheral’, which means it ‘not only features a peripherally mounted automatic winding system and ‘floating’ tourbillon, but also a peripherally mounted minute repeater regulator’. This mechanism is the ‘beating heart’ of the watch and controls the miniature hammers that strike gongs to represent hours, quarter hours, and minutes with distinct tonality, making it the brand’s most ‘resonant’ minute repeater, till date. It is powered by the in-house CFB MR3000 calibre—developed over six years, replete with 617 components put together to offer a power reserve of at least 65 hours, and is visible through the sapphire caseback.
Czapek Antarctique Royal Onyx
At Dubai Watch Week 2023, the highly coveted integrated, steel sport watch from Czapek gets a dark edge in the form of onyx, with striking accents in a vivid blue. These vivid blue indexes happen to be baguette-cut sapphires, which stand out against the rich backdrop of black onyx—a stone that has been gaining popularity as a material to craft watch dials from. This edition was created in collaboration with Mansour Jewellers—Czapek’s partners in the UAE—and is ‘dedicated’ to the Emirati state, as a limited edition of 18 pieces only. The idea behind this dial was to celebrate the beauty of gemstones, and choosing a colour for the dial led the collaborating partners to pick a material instead. “The simplicity and chic modernity of the Antarctique provides a great playground for creativity,” says Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek. “Harnessing traditional crafts and materials and giving them a contemporary twist, as we have done for this piece, is absolutely in keeping with Czapek’s creative ethos.” Set within the steel case of this gorgeous, edgy sport watch is Czapek’s automatic calibre SXH5, which offers a power reserve of 56 hours.
Doxa Sub 300β Seddiqi Edition
When compared to the previous 13.65mm Sub 300T iterations, this SUB 300β Seddiqi Edition 2023 is comparatively slim-bodied, with a thickness of 11.95mm. Moreover, this iteration is etched entirely from one solid block of 316L stainless steel. The 42.5mm case features the signature DOXA-patented unidirectional rotating bezel with blue ceramic insert. For the first time, the Sub 300β features a rich sea blue mother-of-pearl dial. This 50-piece limited-run dive watch offers upto 300m water resistance, dual scales to calculate dive period (in minutes) and depth (in metres), and protection via the scratch-resistant antireflective sapphire crystal. All the baton hour markers, three hands, and 12 o’clock dot indication are SuperLumiNova coated for superior legibility. Powered by the in-house Swiss mechanical automatic movement, the watch beats at 28,800vph and offers upto 38 hours of power reserve. The Sub 300β Seddiqi Edition 2023 comes secured to the signature ‘beads of rice’ 316L stainless steel bracelet or white FKM rubber strap. Both feature folding clasp with ratcheting and an adjustable wetsuit extension.
Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
Perhaps the most prestigious edition from the Highlife collection, the new Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, which makes its debut at the Dubai Watch Week 2023, is in celebration of the brand’s 35th anniversary. Aside from carrying two of the more prestigious complications from fine watchmaking, this new limited edition of only 35 pieces is set in a rose gold case, measuring 41mm in width. The new design of the dial features the Highlife series’ globe motif in the blue background—not seen in previous editions of the Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, which were more skeletonised. Even the tourbillon cage at six on this one is surrounded by a golden frame. Meanwhile the perpetual calendar displays are seen at 12, three and nine. At 12 are the month and leap year indicators, while the day and analogue date are at nine and three, respectively. All of this is powered by the automatic manufacture calibre FC-975, which offers a 38-hour power reserve. This anniversary limited edition also marks 15 years of the maison’s manufacture tourbillon.
Gerald Charles Maestro Ultra-Thin, Maestro Chronograph Chocolate Brown
Gerald Charles upgrade their Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin and Maestro 3.0 Chronograph lines to include a rich, chocolate brown-hued dial against an 18-karat rose gold case measuring 39mm by 41mm. The screwed-down crown with a decorative clous de Paris pattern matches that on the chocolate-brown, vulcanised rubber strap. Rose-gold-plated, baton-shaped hands and indexes are filled with Super-LumiNova on both timepieces, while gilded outlines highlight the chronograph recorders on the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph. The sunburst effect of the chocolate-brown dial plays with light, reminiscent of milk chocolate and richer dark chocolate simultaneously. Inside the polished case of the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin is the automatic GCA 3002 calibre, while the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph houses the GCA 3022/12 movement.
Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition
The latest release in the Bridges collection by Girard-Perregaux features gorgeous Aston Martin green highlights against a 45mm black DLC-treated titanium case. A curved ‘box’ sapphire crystal glass covers the dial, while the sapphire crystal on the exhibition caseback has an etched, white Aston Martin logo. The minute track in green on the periphery of the dial is punctuated with suspended and faceted hour indexes. The highlights of the timepiece are the two new Neo Bridges in green, which stand out against the black and silver of the brand’s automatic GP0840000-2164 calibre on the open-worked dial. At six, under one green Neo Bridge is the gear train, while a larger green bridge holds the timekeeping hands. The micro rotor between 10 and 11 has the automobile manufacturer’s name engraved on it, while the barrel that powers the movement—and balances the layout at 1:30—features the watchmaking brand’s name engraved.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds radiates with an aqua blue enamel dial monikered ‘grand feu’, trademark fumé finish and beautiful, hammered texture. To achieve this texture, the pattern is hammered onto a gold base with three colour pigments, washed, crushed, oxidised for an ombré effect. Plus, the grand feu dial is fired 12 times to achieve the fumé finish. Enhancing the steel applique indices and hands are inserts in Globolight—a ceramic-based material filled with Super-LumiNova. A lacquered, snailed small seconds sub-dial occupies the six o’clock position; while an embossed ‘M’ screw-in crown sits adjacent to three o’clock. The 39mm cushion-shaped stainless steel case is elongated, and accommodates the new automatic calibre HMC 500—the brand’s smallest movement—that beats at 21,600vph, and offers upto three-day power reserve, while it’s equipped with a bidirectional pawl winding system. The display caseback reveals the platinum micro-rotor engraved with H. Moser hallmark, the Straumann hairspring, and Moser stripes with anthracite coating.
Hublot Classic Fusion Black Magic
In sync with their ‘Art of Fusion’ philosophy, Hublot have launched two limited-edition Classic Fusion watches in partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, designed in collaboration with award-winning calligraphist, Wissam Shawkat. The new Classic Fusion Black Magic timepieces pay homage to the rich Arabian heritage and showcase a design that’s deeply inspired from the Arabic language. Both timepieces feature exquisite calligraphy, executed in vibrant hues of orange, blue, green, and red, which stands out against the matte black dials, serving as a blank canvas. The calligraphy reads ‘Al Zaman’ and ‘Al Waqt’—both words meaning time in Arabic. Both the iterations are limited to 50 pieces only, while one comes in a 42mm case the other version with a diamond-studded bezel comes in a 38mm case. Water-resistant to 50m, both models are driven by the HUB1110 self-winding movement, made up of 63 components and 25 jewels, supplying an energy reserve of at least 42 hours.
Norqain Wild One Gold
The Norqain Wild One Gold is the first time the brand have used solid 18-karat gold for the case. The top of the case features a gold ‘cage’ in brushed and polished finishes, while the bottom is the brand’s proprietary Norteq material, with a rubber shock absorber, and sandblasted titanium container for the chronometer-certified manufacture calibre NN20/1. Needless to say, this play with materials makes the 42mm case sturdy yet light, and water resistant to 200m. Black screws on the gilded lugs, paired with black crown guards on the right of the case and a matching extension on the left, allow the gold of the case and matching highlights on the dial to shine. The depth offered by the three-dimensional, laser-cut, mandala pattern on the dial, is enhanced by the skeletonised red-gold-plated indexes and hands.
Oris Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 400 X Laser Engraved
The Laser Engraved Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 is a departure from the earlier monotone-dial iterations. This 39mm case in titanium cradles an iridescent dial. Depending on the angle of light exposure, the laser-treated dial changes colour from pink, violet, blue and green. Designed around biomimicry by the brand’s head engineer, Richard ‘Ipy’ Siegrist, the created optical interference destroys red light waves to stream the blue and green waves. For the first time, the ProPilot X dial does not feature date aperture. Overall minimalistic, the dial is graced by black Super-LumiNova hands, and lazer-cut 3D stick indexes, logo, and minutes track. With several features in titanium—caseback, screw-in security crown with crown protection—along with the domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal, make the iteration, ensuring upto 100m water resistance. Powering the watch is Oris calibre 400, providing an accuracy -3/+5 seconds a day (within COSC tolerances), a 120-hour or five-day power reserve, and advanced anti-magnetism.
Ressence Type 1 DX3
Independent watchmaker Ressence have unveiled the Type 1 DX3, in collaboration with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, which comes as the third and final chapter of a six-year partnership between the two companies. Limited to 35 pieces only, this timekeeper fuses the intricate patterns of Arabic mosaics with the watchmaking art of cloisonné. Measuring 42.7mm and crafted in a titanium case, the watch offers functions such as hours, minutes, seconds, and day-of-the-week indication displayed on a rose-gold coloured palette, inspired by the hues of the desert. The arrangement of dial colours on the DX3 is executed in a manner where the darker shades emerge as one moves further away from the sub-dials. And since luminescence is a dominant theme in watches this year, the DX3, too, doesn’t shy away from exhibiting the green glow, as it is filled with grade-A Super-LumiNova, which also adorns the numerals, like on all Ressence timepieces. It is brought to life by the patented ROCS 1.3 or the Ressence Orbital Convex System—an automatic module supplying the watch with a power reserve of at least 36 hours.
Speake-Marin Ripples Metallic Green
Speake-Marin extend their Ripples collection of sport chic steel bracelet watches with the Ripples Metallic Green iteration. The brand is known for taking inspiration from London’s urban landscape such as the cushion-shaped La City case. In the same vein, the dial of Ripples Metallic Green is dedicated to the serene London’s Sky Garden. Made from rhodium-plated brass plate engineered with 12 hand satin-finish horizontal waves or 3D ripples, every part of the dial produces different light and shadows. Layers of metallic green PVD coating and transparent lacquer produce desired lustre. Classic spade hands resemble the ones on the dial of the Elizabeth Tower clock in London—popularly known as ‘Big Ben’, while a small seconds sub-dial sits between one o’clock and two o’clock. The 40.30mm polished/satin-brushed stainless steel case is fitted with a screw-down crown. Powered by the self-winding movement, Calibre SMA03-T, comprising 144 components, it beats at 28,800vph and offers 52-hour power reserve. The 60-piece limited edition Ripples Metallic Green comes attached to a three-link bracelet in polished/satin-finished stainless steel fixed with a folding clasp.
Urwerk UR-230 ‘Eagle’
A highly-mechanised, futuristic-looking, Transformers-style bird on the wrist, the Urwerk UR-230 ‘Eagle’ takes the UR-200 series’ engineering to the next level. Its 44.81mm by 53.55mm trapezoid case is made from 318 superimposed layers of lightweight and robust CTP carbon, and DLC-treated titanium. The resulting layered black and grey case and cover—which provides extra protection for the sapphire crystal—enhance the ultra-modern aesthetic of the watch. The cover features a ‘beak-like’ grip that, when lifted, allows one to view the dial. The ‘steps’ into the dial add depth and evoke an amphitheatre with the three-armed timekeeping display taking centre-stage. Rotating blocks on these arms display the hour while ‘trapped’ within the retrograde minutes hand. The UR-7.30 calibre housed within features a new shock-absorption system powered by turbines. A second set of turbines controls the airflow to the winding system, allowing the wearer to regulate the automatic winding power, or switch to manual winding, controlled by a switch that disengages the rotor.
