SpotlightOld Timer, New Tricks: Favre Leuba’s Sea Sky Chronograph

Time has a way of coming full circle. As the dust settles on the show floor of Geneva Watch Days 2024, one name echoes through the halls with unexpected resonance: Favre Leuba. The storied Swiss brand, absent from the horological spotlight for years, have re-emerged with a collection that’s both a nod to their rich past and a bold step into the future. At the forefront of this revival stands the Sea Sky Chronograph, a timepiece that encapsulates Favre Leuba’s ambition to reclaim their place in the pantheon of Swiss watchmaking.

A Phoenix Rising: Favre Leuba’s Rebirth

To appreciate the significance of Favre Leuba’s return, one must first understand their legacy. Founded in 1737 by Abraham Favre, the brand predate the United States of America. For nearly three centuries, Favre Leuba stood as a beacon of Swiss horological innovation, producing groundbreaking timepieces like the Bivouac (the world’s first mechanical wristwatch equipped with an aneroid barometer) in 1962 and the Bathy (the first mechanical depth gauge) in 1968.

Despite this illustrious history, Favre Leuba, like many traditional watchmakers, fell victim to the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 80s. The brand changed hands several times, its voice in the industry growing fainter with each passing year. Now, under the leadership of industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, Favre Leuba are writing a new chapter. The brand’s ambitious roadmap and robust relaunch plan point to an exceptional transformation in both scope and depth.

At First Glance: The Sea Sky Chronograph

Among the 22 new references unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, the Sea Sky Chronograph stands out as a testament to Favre Leuba’s commitment to blending heritage with modernity. At first glance, the watch exudes a vintage charm that’s unmistakably rooted in the aesthetic of 1970s sports chronographs. Yet, upon closer inspection, it becomes clear that this is no mere reissue.

The Sea Sky Chronograph presents itself in a 40mm stainless steel case, a size that strikes a balance between modern preferences and vintage proportions. The case profile is a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, catching light in a fascinating way. The double-domed sapphire crystal adds a touch of vintage flair while providing the clarity and durability expected of a contemporary timepiece.

A Closer Look: Dial, Case, And Strap

The Sea Sky Chronograph’s dial is a study in vintage-inspired functionality. Available in black, blue, or sunburst brown, each variant offers a distinct personality while maintaining the watch’s core identity. The three white sub-dials at three, six, and nine o’clock provide excellent contrast, enhancing both aesthetics and legibility. Broad arrow-style hands and vintage-inspired indices further cement the watch’s retro appeal without feeling derivative.

Favre Leuba’s attention to detail extends to the case construction. The 316L stainless steel case features a unidirectional rotating bezel with a black ceramic insert, engraved with countdown markers. This modern touch adds practical functionality while subtly updating the vintage aesthetic. Water resistance of 100m suggests the Sea Sky is more than capable of handling the occasional aquatic adventure, living up to its name.

The leather strap, fitted with a pin buckle, complements the watch’s look. A quick-change system adds a touch of modern convenience, allowing wearers to easily swap straps to suit their mood or occasion.

Under The Hood: The La Joux-Perret L112

Powering the Sea Sky Chronograph is the La Joux-Perret L112 automatic movement, visible through a sapphire caseback. La Joux-Perret, known for their high-end chronograph calibres, has equipped this movement with a respectable 60-hour power reserve.

The movement’s decoration is noteworthy, featuring circular graining, Côtes de Genève stripes, and sunburst patterns. A gold-plated oscillating weight, engraved with the Favre Leuba hourglass emblem and ‘Swiss made since 1737,’ adds a final touch of luxury and brand heritage.

Beyond Timekeeping

The Sea Sky Chronograph goes beyond basic timekeeping, incorporating both tachymeter and telemeter scales. The tachymeter, a staple of sports chronographs, allows for quick calculations of speed over a known distance. The less common telemeter scale enables the wearer to gauge the distance to an event that can be both seen and heard, such as lightning.

While these features may see limited practical use in daily life, they add a layer of technical intrigue that watch enthusiasts often appreciate. More importantly, they connect the Sea Sky to Favre Leuba’s history of creating purpose-built tool watches.

Final Thoughts

The Sea Sky Chronograph represents more than just a new watch; it’s a statement of intent from a revived Favre Leuba. It offers a compelling package: a storied brand name, solid technical specifications, and distinctive design. However, Favre Leuba face the challenge of reestablishing their identity in a crowded marketplace.

The true test for the Sea Sky Chronograph, and indeed for Favre Leuba as a whole, will be how it resonates with both longtime brand enthusiasts and newcomers to the world of mechanical watches. If this timepiece is any indication, Favre Leuba’s comeback is off to a promising start.