SpotlightOn The GPHG 2022 Nominees: For Ladies And Gentlemen

GPHG category: Ladies’

Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon Eclipse I      

Before the Luna Magna came along for Arnold & Son, the Perpetual Moon was their flagship moon phase series, known for its oversized moon display. This 18-piece limited edition in 38mm white gold is a stunning jewelled rendition of that template, with a dial made from very fine blue aventurine, cut out like lace in shapes that are an extension of the gem-set starry motif at eight o’clock. This motif has been encrusted with mother-of-pearl fragments in white and blue, pink and blue sapphires, and diamonds, while the bezel, lugs and crown alone are set with 90 brilliant-cut diamonds. The sky disc. seen through the cut-outs and aperture, is made from mother-of-pearl, with lunar discs featuring ruthenium crystals, and hand hand-painted constellations. This gorgeous poetic timepiece runs on a 90-hour manual-winding calibre.

GPHG category: Ladies’

Parmigiani Tonda PF Automatic      

The relatively new Tonda PF collection from Parmigiani has been a tremendous success. This year, as many as five different models from this series alone have been nominated for GPHGs, including this one. In sustainably sourced rose gold, and sized at 36mm, the 100m-water-resistant case is well integrated with the bracelet, and it houses an automatic movement offering a power reserve of 60 hours. With hours and minutes only, the understated watch has nuanced detailing such as fine knurling on the bezel and the guilloche work of the dial with Parmigiani’s barley corn pattern.

Other nominees for the GPHG Ladies’ watch prize

• Chaumet Déferlante Secret Timepiece
• Chopard Alpine Eagle 33
• Konstantin Chaykin Harley Quinn
• Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée watch, 23 mm

Nominees for the GPHG Ladies’ Complication prize

• Andersen Genève Tempus Terrae baguettes Aquamarines
• Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Ultra-Thin “RD#3”
• Chaumet Sous Le Soleil Creative Complication Timepiece
• Chopard Imperiale Flying Tourbillon
• Hermès Arceau Le temps voyageur
• Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch

GPHG category: Men’s

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days

Unveiled at Geneva Watch Days this year, the new Octo Finissimo Skeleton marks 10 years of the Octo collection, and it also represents the brand’s current theme of contrasts. Though the Octo line has had a skeleton watch or two before, this one is a completely new presentation of the open-worked display, with grey interiors to offset the rose gold of the 40mm case. Anthracite-PVD bridges hold the intricate movement together, while the power reserve is indicated very cleverly and subtly, around the small seconds. A triumph in open-worked mechanics, the watch also offers a huge power reserve of eight days.

GPHG category: Men’s

Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro Rotor Steel

Among the more modern lines from Parmigiani, exemplifying the archetype of integrated-bracelet watches, the Tonda PF was launched to mark the Fleurier-based brand’s 25th anniversary. This Tonda PF Micro Rotor in steel is the most basic time-and-date version, sized at 40mm. And as the name suggests, it’s an automatic, offering a 48-hour power reserve. The PF703 calibre is especially noteworthy because of how the oscillating mass, in platinum, is integrated into the structure, rather than stacked on a different plane. This is not a feature you find in watches from a lot of brands.

This Tonda PF Micro Rotor in steel is the most basic time-and-date version, sized at 40mm

₹25,40,000

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The PF703 calibre is especially noteworthy because of how the oscillating mass, in platinum, is integrated into the structure, rather than stacked on a different plane

₹25,40,000

Check Our Selling Price

The automatic calibre offers a power reserve of 48 hours

₹25,40,000

Check Our Selling Price

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GPHG category: Men’s

Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire      

A throwback to the brand’s past success at observatory chronometer competitions—which resulted in over 2,000 chronometry prizes for Zenith—this watch runs on a calibre that was particularly successful at those competitions. It has been developed together with Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, and watch auctioneers Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo. Voutilainen was responsible largely for restoring, decorating and finishing the calibre 135, with chamfered and polished edges, circular graining, snailed brushing, and so on. The 40-hour manual movement can be seen through the caseback. Set in prestigious platinum and sized at 38mm, the overall design of this very fine dress watch is heavily inspired by watches from the 1950s. It has been made to be sold exclusively by Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo.

Other nominees for the GPHG Men’s watch prize

• Atelier Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II
• Sylvain Pinaud Origine
• Trilobe Une Folle Journée Black Edition

GPHG category: Men’s Complication

Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition     

The Orbit from Armin Strom showcases the brand’s philosophy of never completely hiding the inner mechanics of a watch. While celebrating that, with the hours, minutes and seconds off-centred towards nine o’clock, the watch also offers a quirky analogue date display, with dates marked around the bezel. The central date hand can be disengaged using the pusher at 10 o’clock, and brought to 12. You can check the present date by using the pusher at any time. The 43.4mm steel case houses an automatic calibre, featuring an equal-force mechanism for consistent power to the balance, and offering a power reserve of 72 hours.

The Orbit has a quirky analogue date display, with dates marked around the bezel. The central date hand can be disengaged using the pusher at 10 o’clock, and brought to 12

The Orbit from Armin Strom celebrates the inner mechanics of a watch, with the hours, minutes and seconds off-centred towards nine o’clock

GPHG category: Men’s Complication

Bovet Fleurier Virtuoso V Jumping Hour Titanium

In Bovet’s signature Amadeo case—which allows you to use the watch as a pocket watch, wristwatch and table clock—this 43.5mm titanium timekeeper is also reversible, with two dial faces. The two dials can show different times, allowing you to use one side for a secondary time zone, effectively making this a GMT watch too. One side of the watch has the hours and minutes off-centred, small seconds and an indicator for the massive 120 hours of power reserve that the manual-winding calibre can store. The other side has a retrograde-minutes display, and an aperture for the jumping hours. Largely open-worked on one side, but with sublime salmon dials on both, this timepiece really is a winner.

The two dials of the Bovet Fleurier Virtuoso V can show different times, allowing you to use one side for a secondary time zone, effectively making this a GMT watch too

GPHG category: Men’s Complication

Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

Presenting the sophistication and minimalism of the Tonda PF series, this automatic secondary-time-zone watch has a third hand for the time-zone feature. The ‘rattrapante’ refers to the watch’s ability to conceal the third hand—like a rattrapante chronograph’s secondary chronograph seconds hand—when it’s not in use. The pusher at eight o’clock reveals this GMT hand, while another pusher in the main crown hides behind the main hour hand. With the Tonda PF’s integrated-bracelet format, and Parmigiani’s signature barley-corn pattern on the dial, this sophisticated watch is minimalistic, but far from simple.

The ‘rattrapante’ in the name or this Parmigiani Tonda PF refers to the watch’s ability to conceal the third hand—like a rattrapante chronograph’s secondary chronograph seconds hand—when it’s not in use

Other nominees for the GPHG Men’s Complication prize

• Audemars Piguet Code 11.59—Tourbillon Openworked
• Hermès Arceau Le temps voyageur
• Singer Reimagined Barista

See the complete list of the GPHG nominees for 2022