FeatureAn Introduction To Chronoswiss And Their Top Watches

The Quartz Crisis of the late 1960s-70s nearly wiped out the mechanical watch industry, and Swiss watchmakers were forced to either shut shop or opt for a complete rebrand. One brand that made a mark during this mechanical ‘renaissance’ was the Munich-based Chronoswiss founded by watchmaker Gerd Rüdiger Lang. The school dropout first dabbled in watchmaking at his local jeweller, years before he sought employment at Heuer (before it was TAG Heuer) directly under founder Jack Heuer in the 60s. Despite the successful quartz wave, Lang believed in the revival of mechanical watches, and purchased a huge stash of mechanical watch parts from Heuer at throwaway price. In 1983, Lang went a step further and launched Chronoswiss; his own brand of mechanical timepieces. The Chronoswiss history of high-tech looking mechanical iterations, spanning 40 years, is dotted with significant timepieces such as Open Gear, Flying, Space Timer, among others.

Chronoswiss History of 19th-Century Horological Innovations

Chronoswiss released their first watch in 1987; the Régulateur (or Regulator), the world’s first serially manufactured hand-wound wristwatch with a dial in knurled finish that displays a large minute hand, clubs the hours and the running seconds in two separate sub-dials, encircled by a fluted bezel and operated via an onion-shaped crown. This one-of-its-kind regulator-style dial and case, inspired by pre-atomic clocks such as radio broadcasting timekeepers and marine chronometers, gave the brand its distinct character.

Watchmaker and Founder of Chronoswiss, Gerd Rüdiger Lang

Managing Director and Owner of Chronoswiss, Oliver Ebstein

In 1988, the brand unveiled their dress watch titled Pacific; the polar opposite of the Regulator given its uncomplicated, minimalist dial. In the same year, Chronoswiss made a successful debut at the World Trade Fair for Watches and Jewellery in Basel, and in 1990 unveiled Régulateur Automatique—an automatic variant of the Regulator with the in-house Calibre 112. In 1991, Chronoswiss launched their first chronograph—Kairos Chronograph—with centralised hour and minute display. Cabrio, the brand’s first reversible watch, was unveiled in 1993; the watch design reminiscent of the famed Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, with its rectangular case and rotation mechanism—here, the case can be rotated by 180 degrees and even lifted upwards.

The Chronoswiss Flying Grand Regulator Skeleton displays a 44mm case made from steel and black DLC coat, and secured to a brown leather strap

This 3-D dial of the Flying Regulator Night And Day is the recipient of the Red Dot Design Award

Chronoswiss Flying Shop The Collection

In 1993 again, Orea was launched; a minimalist white enamel dial with sapphire crystal caseback. In 1995, the brand launched their first automatic skeletonised chronograph, Opus. Five years later, the stellar Régulateur à Tourbillon was unveiled in 2000. This timepiece is a minute tourbillon with Chronoswiss characteristic regulator dial and floating tourbillon cage.

Change Of Hands

The House of Chronoswiss was acquired by the Ebstein family in February 2012, under the aegis of husband-wife duo Oliver and Eva Ebstein. Before his role as Chronoswiss CEO, Oliver was an independent management consultant involved with estate planning and financial restructuring. He used this expertise to make radical decision calls such as relocating the brand headquarters to the more tourist-friendly location of Lucerne from Munich.

The 2020 version of the 1995-dated Opus Chronograph is made from 300 parts

The Opus Chronograph has a 41mm case with shorter than usual lugs for refined fit

Chronoswiss Sirius Opus Chronograph Shop The Collection

In 2013, the brand hit the 30-year milestone and commemorated it with the Regulator 30. A year later, the brand decided to make the Lucerne workshop public domain, offering walkthroughs and other information to horological enthusiasts. Here, horological enthusiasts have the opportunity to take a tour of the workshop where avid watchmakers tinker away and produce some of the world’s most stunning mechanical watches. A visit there will ensure that one develops an appreciation for the intricacy and deftness involved in the art of watchmaking.

Chronoswiss Open Gear Shop The Collection

Current Range

At present, Chronoswiss offers 10 watch collections, namely, Delphis, Tourbillion, Open Gear, Flying, Space Timer, SkelTec, Classic, Artist Collection, Sirius and Heritage. The Delphis line, divided into Oracle, Paraiba and Venture decorated with guilloche artistry contained inside a fan shaped design. Highlights of the Space Timer are the three-dimensional dial, titan moon and hovering bridges. The Tourbillion impresses with a 17-part stainless steel case, guilloche dial and flying tourbillion at six o’clock. Containing an extensive range of 40 iterations is the Open Gear line; each model features its own quirks along with similar base design of a 42-part hand guilloche dial, retrograde seconds, and openworked mechanics. Sirius features the upgraded Opus Chronograph subcategory; each iteration made from 300 parts that celebrates busy-looking skeleton dial design.

The Chronoswiss Space Timer Jupiter Gold displays a 3D dial, titan moon and suspended bridges

₹27,20,000

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Prominent dial keeping elements are SuperLumiNova coated for legibility in poor lit conditions

₹17,90,000

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The Chronoswiss Space Timer Moonwalk wears the colours of the galaxy that is blue, black and white

₹17,90,000

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Bright like the orangish setting sun is the Space Timer Solaris that features a nano-printed dial with white and black highlights

₹17,90,000

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Distinct Appeal

At present, Chronoswiss remains staunchly independent in a world where conglomerates seem to rule the show. Their unique timepieces continue to enthrall horological audiences with a penchant for mechanical watches, and the delicacy, grace and unmatched hand-craftsmanship that comes along with them.

The Delphis Paraiba is the updated version of the first steel Delphis family, and portrays a stellar hand guilloché on a bluish-green dome design on the dial

The Delphis Venture with 42mm steel case portrays an avant-garde feel in combination with a guilloché dial and small seconds sub-dial

Chronoswiss Delphis Shop The Collection

This Swiss brand, rooted in superior craftsmanship, upholds Switzerland’s horological legacy, produces about 7,000 watches every year, making every single iteration produced by the brand distinctive, exclusive and worth coveting.