FeatureIntroducing The Wild And Daring Swiss Watchmaker Roger Dubuis

There are few times in our lives that we attain the experience of something recherché, ie rare and exquisite. One such exceptionally unique phenomenon in the world of horology, since the summer of 1995, has been the Swiss watchmaker Roger Dubuis. The Geneva-based born winner has unfailingly been revealing rarities with high production value that demonstrate an extraordinary convergence of art and individualism. Now under the umbrella of the illustrious Richemont group, the seeds of this daring brand were sown by an extremely passionate watchmaker Roger Dubuis and entrepreneur and designer Carlos Dias.

In the 1950s, while Longines marked the beginnings of Dubuis’ watchmaking career, he was actually ‘schooled’ at Patek Philippe at a time when the majority of the work was still being done by hand. As a matter of fact, Dubuis has been instrumental in the production of some of the Pateks that one sees in auctions in the present day. In the 1980s, when he set up his own watch and clock repair shop in Geneva, he met Dias. This rare confluence led to the foundation of the Société Genevoise des Montres, later renamed Manufacture Roger Dubuis.

The Pillars Of The Brand

The brand has laid a strong emphasis on complications as an art form since its conception, as was evident in its first two collections—Sympathie and Hommage—dating back to 1996, and succeeding collections such as Much More, Too Much and, later, Excalibur. Each Excalibur timepiece is finished, polished and assembled using both traditional and modern techniques. Catering exclusively to women, Velvet—another stellar Roger Dubuis collection—is an ode to strong, committed femininity. Crafted with ultra-modern allure, these distinctive creations are a stunning synthesis of inimitable design codes and sophisticated mechanisms.

A sheer exhibition of idiosyncratic design and fine movement finishing, the brand drew strongly on Dubuis’ know-how of restoration of historically important vintage timepieces. Needless to say, Roger’s expertise in Haute Horlogerie, spirited approach and disruptive vision radiate in every high-end creation of the eponymous brand. While Dias has been passionate about watches ever since he can remember, he takes immense pride in embarking on unbelievable challenges and travelling down the road less travelled.

Contemporary and seductive, the 36mm Blossom Velvet Blue is a beautiful metaphor for womanhood and femininity

₹62,90,000

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The mother-of-pearl dial with with assorted grand feu enamel floral motifs features a white gold bezel and lugs that are set with brilliant-cut diamonds

₹62,90,000

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As a representation of Dubuis’ old-school dexterity combined with Dias’ exuberance, Roger Dubuis has come to be known for its most distinctive timepieces, with discernible elements such as the signature oversized cases, skeletonised dials, transparent backs, imposing crowns, Roman numerals and Celtic cross-styled tourbillon carriages. What makes these timepieces more coveted is the certification they are awarded for their provenance and quality with the Poinçon de Genève or Geneva Seal. Home to exclusive calibres, Roger Dubuis runs the only 100-percent Poinçon de Genève manufacture—a powerhouse of cutting-edge technologies and mechanisms offering horological complexity. To put it succinctly, this is a brand that is founded by and for the connoisseurs of horology.

Arm-In-Arm With Only The Best

Unabashed, boisterous and flamboyant, the brand enjoys much-talked-about partnerships with Lamborghini and Pirelli—all celebrated for their performance, exclusivity, and boundary-pushing aesthetic codes in the world of motorsports. Being a self-proclaimed kindred spirit with the motorsport world, Roger Dubuis stays ahead of the pack with limited-edition timepieces that draw inspiration from the excellence that is specific to the Italian supercar maker, Lamborghini. This year, the brand served as the main sponsor of the Lamborghini Super Trofeo Championship—an international motor racing series.

Always on the lookout for a challenge, Roger Dubuis forged a 360-degree partnership with Lamborghini last year and launched the 88-piece Excalibur Aventador S collection and its Duotor movement, along with the Raging Mechanics—a by-product of the ‘powered by Raging Mechanics’ Lamborghini Squadra Corse x Roger Dubuis. Lending exclusivity are the cases of the Aventador S models, which are made of forged carbon that comes directly from Lamborghini, and the RD 103SQ calibre, which derives inspiration from the Lamborghini engine block. The second novelty that came out of this alliance quite recently and emulates the design of the Lamborghini Huracán super car is the Excalibur Huracán Performante (limited to 88 pieces). This 45mm timepiece uses a new movement, ie the RD630 that has a 12-degree inclined balance wheel representing the calibre signature associated with Lamborghini.

Having experienced paramount success with their Excalibur line of skeletonised watches, Roger Dubuis launched a collaboration with the racing tyre maker Pirelli—the exclusive supplier of tyres for Formula One. Colourful and eccentric, the Pirelli Excalibur limited editions sport exclusive straps that feature rubber inlays from certified Pirelli tyres. In addition, the straps are accented in each of the colours of the seven Pirelli race tyres featured in last season’s races and are patterned differently.

Roger Dubuis has a flair for the dramatic, as is evident through its penchant for unusual materials as well as its larger-than-life events and product launches. The maison’s forward-thinking design process, individuality within the industry, and its high-octane partnerships with both Pirelli and Lamborghini serve as the perfect place for their product storytelling. Roger, who passed away last year at the age of 79, was acknowledged by many as a consummate craftsman and one of the last masters of Swiss watchmaking. The legacy that he is left behind will remain unparalleled and can definitely be proclaimed as the Hailey’s Comet for aficionados of horology.