Round-UpFrom The Yin To The Yang: 10 Exquisite Watches With Inverse Panda Dials
'The Watch Guide' brings to you a list of inverse panda-dial watches that flip the colours of the much-loved giant panda
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We have already told you all about panda dial watches, and presented some exceptional timepieces. Now we take a trip to a parallel universe, where the colours of the panda are inverted—white eyes, black face. We refer, of course, to the famed ‘inverse panda dial’ watches where dark dials sport contrasting, light-hued sub-dials. The reverse panda, or inverse panda dial, was actually what started the whole panda craze to begin with (as you will find out more about as you read on). It’s no wonder then that this genre is so incredibly popular. Apart from the obvious heightened legibility of the chronograph counters, it’s the overall aesthetic of these watches that really pulls the crowd in. And we can guarantee that you will be drawn in by these 10 watches featuring inverse panda dials.
Breitling Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Mosquito
Known for creating some of the most extraordinary pilot watches, Breitling’s portfolio also includes special editions such as this Aviator 8 Mosquito, which they introduced in 2019. An homage to the De Havilland Mosquito—a British aircraft credited with playing a substantial role in the country’s victory in World War II—the timepiece takes its design cues from the cockpit clocks manufactured by the brand during the 1930s and 40s. Presented in a 43mm stainless steel case, the watch features a bidirectional-rotating bezel with ADLC-coating, which not only offers scratch resistance as the usual DLC coating but also lends more depth and darkness to the black bezel. However, it is the dial of Aviator 8 Mosquito that makes it truly special. Apart from the bold red and orange accents that are a nod to the insignias and markings found on the fuselage of the De Havilland Mosquito aircraft, the black dial also sports three silver-hued sub-dials, along with Super-LumiNova-filled hands for the hours and minutes, as well as the central stopwatch seconds hand. The timepiece runs on the in-house Breitling 01 chronograph movement that offers a power reserve of up to three days. Enhancing the overall vintage style of the watch is its sturdy dark brown leather strap, which also has a bright yellow underside that adds to its charm.
Breitling Superocean Heritage B01
Breitling kicked off the contrasting dial trend without even knowing it, with the launch of the Breitling Superocean Chronograph ref 807 in 1957. This was well before Rolex came out with panda Daytona (1963), and the first Heuer Autavia (1962). Considering the ref 807 was the first inverse panda dial watch in the world, it’s quite fitting for the Superocean Heritage B01 to find a cozy spot on this list. Beating within is the manufacturer’s famed in-house B01 chronograph movement, enclosed in a 44mm steel case, and boasting a 70-hour power reserve. The black dial and bezel provide a lovely contrast against the steel case, while the three silver-coloured sub-dials at three, six, and nine balance out the no-nonsense aesthetic of this watch effortlessly. There’s also a date aperture, with a black background and white numerals, that seems to blend seamlessly with the black dial.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback
One of the remaining few family-owned Swiss watch brands, Carl F. Bucherer creates exquisite timepieces that cater to true watch aficionados. The Manero Flyback is one such example of quintessential Swiss watchmaking. In a 43mm stainless steel case, the Manero Flyback houses the CFB 1970 calibre that boasts a 42-hour power reserve. As is with all creations from the manufacturer, the beauty of its timepieces lie in the details. The brushed black dial hosts silver-hued sub-dials in a bicompax setting, and a date window at six balances it out. Red accents are used to create a contrasting effect that further complements the inverse panda dial aesthetic. A kudu leather strap in golden brown completes the look of this watch. With its vintage charm, the Manero Flyback wouldn’t look out of place on a race car driver from the 1950s.
Corum Admiral’s AC-One 45 Chronograph
When it comes to luxury sports watches with formidable maritime credentials, the Corum Admiral’s Chronograph should certainly come to mind. Recognised for its masculine and contemporary design, the timepiece—first introduced in 2013—boasts several elements inspired by the world of sailing. Here is the 2019 iteration of the Admiral’s AC-One 45 Chronograph, which retains the essence of its predecessors but features small yet significant aesthetic updates. Apart from its sleeker and more refined profile to suit the needs and requirements of modern men, the timepiece now comes with a reverse-panda dial layout in addition to the ‘grenadier fendu’ (‘split pomegranate’) pattern that adds more depth to it. Not only this, the applied numeral ’60’ at the 12 o’clock position has been replaced with Corum’s key emblem and brand logo. This exquisite sports watch draws its energy from the self-winding chronograph movement, calibre CO 132, which comes decorated with intricate details and finishing that can be admired through the exhibition caseback. The movement beats at a frequency of 28,800vph and offers a power reserve of 42 hours. Attached to a black rubber strap, the timepiece feels pretty light on the wrist despite its massive 45mm size, thanks to its dodecagonal-shaped case made in titanium—a material that is 45 percent lighter than steel.
Favre-Leuba Raider Sea Sky
A 44mm automatic watch built to withstand the extremes, the Favre-Leuba Raider Sea Sky is a chronograph whose functionality is hard to beat. The timepiece sports a unidirectional rotating bezel crafted in anodised aluminium, which has been painted a striking orange. Contrasting exceptionally well with this eye-catching accent is the black natural rubber strap. The stainless steel case has a gunmetal PVD coating, lending the watch a rugged aesthetic. The inverse panda dial improves legibility of the chronograph counters by leaps and bounds. Boasting a 200m water resistance, this chronograph is as much at home out at sea as it is on terra firma. The hour and minute hands, along with the indices, have a luminous blue emission coating, ensuring that the watch does not let you down even in low-light conditions. Ticking inside is the ETA Valjoux 7753 calibre, which provides the watch with a power reserve of 48 hours.
Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Juventus
The king of collaborations, Hublot, partnered with the Juventus Football Club for the creation of a limited edition Classic Fusion Chronograph Juventus. Now the club has a black-and-white colour scheme that translates its jerseys as well, and while the watch is primarily aimed at fans of the club, that particular colourway works out for us inverse panda dial fans as well. This 45mm watch looks incredibly cool with the combination of a carbon-fibre bezel and satin-finished ceramic case. It uses the HUB1143 manual-winding movement that gives it a 42-hour power reserve. The club’s logo is printed at the three o’clock position and the caseback.
Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Chronor
If you want a chronograph that exudes oodles of sophistication and the gold touch of luxury, the Parmigiani Kalpa Chronor is the watch for you. This timepiece has the distinction of being the first tonneau-shaped integrated chronograph to be entirely manufactured by Parmigiani Fleurier. Its 48.2mm by 40.9mm tonneau-shaped case has been crafted from 18-karat solid gold, and has a thickness of only 14mm. The self-winding movement ticking away inside, the PF 365 calibre, is also tonneau-shaped and only 7mm thick. Also in solid gold is the COSC-certified movement, which beats at 36,000vph. It provides the wearer with an impressive power reserve of 65 hours. The watch’s dial is black, with an oplain centre, and has the ‘Tresse’ guilloche finishing. The hue of the chronograph counters matches that of the case, making for an inverse panda dial watch that is exceptionally enchanting. An Hermès black leather strap adds to the opulent appeal of this arresting timepiece.
Rado Coupole Classic Chronograph
Inspired by the timepieces made by Rado in the 1960s, the Couple Classic Chronograph presents a vintage-style design but with a modern touch. The 42mm watch comes with a sharp round case made of finely-polished stainless steel, which is slender enough to slide under a jacket cuff. Exemplifying understated elegance coupled with great looks is the black dial, featuring two sub-dials, a small seconds counter, and a date window, without coming off as cluttered or busy. It comes protected by sapphire crystal. The Coupole Classic Chronograph utilises a quartz movement that ensures flawless precision and lifelong durability. What else, the stainless steel bracelet elevates the finesse of the timepiece and feels super-comfortable on the wrist.
TAG Heuer Heuer Heritage
The first Heuer Autavia, launched in 1962, was among the first panda watches to hit the market. As a pioneer in the genre, TAG Heuer has retained its footing with wonderful releases over the years. The Heuer Heritage is just one such example. With such a clean design language, it’s easy to see whom the brand is speaking to: a simple, no-nonsense guy with refined taste. The TAG Heuer Heuer Heritage uses the Calibre Heuer 02 (say that five times, fast). This gives it an impressive 80-hour power reserve, which is impressive considering that apart from its time-telling function, it also has a chronograph and a date-indicator.
Tissot Seastar 1000 Chronograph
The Tissot Seastar 1000 Chronograph offers style, resilience, and top-notch accuracy at a rather accessible price range. Sized at 45.5mm, the timepiece features a steel case, along with a unidirectional aluminium bezel that sits atop a well-balanced dial. Protected by a sapphire crystal glass, the watch is water-resistant up to 300m. The dial sports luminescent hour and minute hands and a reverse-panda layout, which is perfectly legible even in low light conditions. The Seastar 1000 Chronograph comes equipped with the ETA G10.212 quartz calibre that runs a wide range of functions, including the ‘add’ and ‘split’ functions. The former lets the user time two events without restarting the chronograph (similar to the functioning of a flyback chronograph), while the other one is the quartz version of a double (or rattrapante) chronograph. Secured on the wrist by a black rubber strap, the timepiece exudes sporty vibes and makes for an ideal companion for deep-sea diving.
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