ReviewBasic Instinct: Jacob & Co Epic X Iterations In ‘Primary’ Colours

Skeleton watches follow the similar principle of KonMari Method propagated by Japanese organising consultant, Marie Kondo. Declutter things that are unnecessary and don’t pass the vibe check. In horological parlance, this thought could mean stripping bare timekeeping elements that are decorative or serve peripheral roles one could do without. This means the absence of dial surface, sub-dials, hour markers, caseback, etc. While the execution is minimalistic, skeletal dials give out the illusion that there’s a lot going on. Openworked watches lay bare mechanical movements and other internals that keep the ‘clockwork’ going between the sapphire crystal on both sides. It can magnify watchmaking defects, identify watch parts that are underperforming, need winding, or have halted. These are instances that would have otherwise required the intervention of an able watchmaker. A case in point is the Jacob & Co Epic X in primary hues.

Primary Skeletal Anatomy

The American watchmakers Jacob & Co (reputed for their ostentatious watches, such as the Five Time Zone, Astronomia Casino box, and Opera Godfather Musical Watch, and cult-ish following of pop culture icons) first launched their entry-level and slimmest iterations, the skeletal Epic X collection in 2015. Epic X models only have and expose those watch parts without which the wristwatch will stop. The display is a mix bag of the JCAM02 calibre, balance spring and wheels, mainspring barrel with a ‘sliding clamp system’, 21 purplish jewels and balance screws. There’s the barrel at 12 o’clock and the balance wheel at six o’clock. The manual-winding calibre, made from 158 parts, beats at 28,800vph and offers a 48-hour power reserve. Patterns such as clou de Paris guilloche, vertical graining, perlage, and sandblasting add some drama to the surface look and texture of the movement.

Jacob & Co. Epic X Shop The Collection

Entangling Of Primary And Silvery Hues

Design-wise, the Epic X series merges the serious with the playful. The ‘serious’ implies the intricate skeletal frame, while the ‘playful’ is the monochromatic colour of the rubber strap and the outer minute ring made from an exotic material, neoralithe. The dial displays skeletal, rhodium hour and minute hands, but no sweeping seconds’ hand. Some decorative elements have been maintained. These include the signature vertical bridges on either side of the coaxial, and the X-shaped lugs resembling crab legs, while locking the strap with the bezel and uniting it with the bridges; thereby instilling symmetry and ease of viewing the dial.

The dial displays skeletal, rhodium hour and minute hands, but no sweeping seconds’ hand

Like the signature vertical bridges on either side of the coaxial, and the X-shaped lugs resembling crab legs, while locking the strap with the bezel

Epic X versions come with or without a diamond-studded bezel, and may or may not have the inner neoralithe inner ring. Their 44mm case sizes in stainless steel or titanium with a thickness of 13.05mm, plus protective anti-reflective sapphire crystal on both sides help with the 100m water resistance. These iterations have rubber straps, punctured with a distinct honeycomb pattern and a reliable titanium buckle.

The Jacob & Co Epic X in primary colours range presents watchmaking finesse through the detailing and the skeletonised elements, while the wholesome frame and the primary hues give it a sporty edge. The contrast that creates makes these pieces quite the conversation starters.