SpotlightBest Of Both Worlds: Introducing The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948

Since their inception in the 1930s, world timer watches have had a major hold on the world of horology, with their ingenious mechanism of telling time simultaneously across different time zones. However, it wasn’t until the 19^th century that the concept of time zones came into existence, thanks to the advent of railways, which propelled the need for standardised timing, where the synchronisation of clocks within a particular geographical region was needed according to global norms. Though one must not forget that as is the case with all measurements of time, the concept of different world time zones, too, is derived from astronomy. Simply put: the 24 hours in a day are calculated basis the time taken by the Earth to rotate on its own axis relative to the Sun—which determines the day and night. While this is an important function in watchmaking, it’s not mandatory to have this feature in modern-day watches; after all, if the real purpose is to determine time in different zones then we are in the age of smartphones… But the realm of haute horlogerie operates on different principles—craftsmanship and innovation being the guiding forces.  That’s where brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre bring out the big guns to show us exactly how it’s done and why fine watchmaking will always stay relevant. Known for their technical expertise when it comes to crafting complications, ‘the watchmaker of watchmakers’ have launched a new iteration of their world timer—the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948—now with a green enamelled dial, inspired by nature.

Combining a world time function with a flying tourbillon, the new iteration of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 now features a lush green enamelled dial in a pink-gold case—striking a fine balance between refined aesthetics and groundbreaking mechanics

Jaeger-LeCoultre is no stranger when it comes to crafting high-end complications—including timepieces that are able to display multiple time zones simultaneously. The new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is an ‘artistic expression of universal time, combining a world time display with a flying tourbillon that makes a complete circuit of the dial in 24 hours’, based on the Earth’s rotation on its axis, orbiting around the Sun. It is a fine specimen showcasing exquisite savoir-faire powered by technical supremacy, all in an 18-karat pink gold case measuring 43mm, limited to just 20 pieces, crafted at the maison’s Métiers Rares atelier—which highlights their mastery of rare ancestral handcrafts.

The Eloquent Aesthetics Of The Dial

The dial is created combining the traditional techniques of enamelling, guillochage, and lacquering, which in total takes more than 70 hours of painstaking work to put together one example. Here, champleve enamelling technique is used, which translates to ‘raised field’, and originated almost 2,500 years ago. This is laborious process where the surface is first hollowed and then filled with multiple layers of enamel—fired at very high temperatures. This particular dial required 10 layers of enamel with more than 20 hours of work. Then comes the lacquering process—which requires manual application of multiple layers of coating on the surface that needs to be decorated. It starts with a clear coat of varnish, followed by a layer of colour. Here, 15 coats of translucent lacquer have been used to add depth and richness—each coat requiring a precisely controlled drying process. This is followed by polishing the disc so that light hits at the right angles to magnify the beauty of the dial, which measures a mere 25.5mm.

Artistic Representation Of The World Time Function

The watch face undoubtedly is the highlight, which features a world map right at the centre, as viewed from the North Pole. The outline of the continents is cut from a fine plate of 18-karat gold and decorated with champleve enamel. However, unlike the traditional flattened image, this map floats above the main dial plate on a domed skeleton of pink gold formed by the longitudes and latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere. This has been achieved through high precision laser-cutting that renders a delicate structure and a light frame, without compromising on the depth and complexity. The dial plate beneath this dome is decorated with a blue-green translucent lacquer, applied over a wavy guilloche pattern—representing the oceans and the movement of the choppy waters. The time zones are represented by the name of the city, set on a green opaline ring around the central dial. Surrounding this city ring are two concentric fixed rings—the inner one being the 24-hour ring, marked with applied rectangular indexes and laser-engraved numerals. The other one, on the extreme edge of the dial features the minute track, which is laser-engraved on a dark green lacquered backdrop. Another striking feature is the flying tourbillon, which like a traditional tourbillon rotates every minute, and it also makes a complete 360-degree orbital revolution of the dial in 24 hours. This is when the map and the city ring also turn in unison—replicating the Earth’s rotation on its axis, indicating day and night, and the correct time simultaneously in different time zones.

The dial is created combining the traditional techniques of enamelling, guillochage, and lacquering, which in total takes more than 70 hours of painstaking work to put together one example

Here, champleve enamelling technique is used, which translates to ‘raised field’, and this particular dial required 10 layers of enamel with more than 20 hours of work

Then comes the lacquering process, requiring manual application of multiple layers of coating on the surface. It starts with a clear coat of varnish, followed by a layer of colour

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Complexity Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 948

The Calibre 948, which has previously driven the Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time is a concept patented by Jaeger-LeCoultre. This is what the brand refers to as a ‘Universal Tourbillon’, where the world time function has been fused with a flying tourbillon. Here, the tourbillon makes a complete circuit of the dial every 24 hours, corresponding to the length of a mean solar day. Composed of 388 components, this automatic movement has been conceived, developed, and produced entirely in-house. Operating at a frequency of 28,800vph, it supplies the watch with a 48-hour power reserve. While the complexity of the inner workings of this mechanism might be overwhelming, the watch is fairly simple to operate. Here, all the functions are controlled by the crown, and one just has to set the time, which synchronises all of the time zones around the world. While travelling and reaching a new destination, one simply has to set the local time using the same crown, which only moves the hour hand, in one-hour jumps, forward or backward, allowing the minutes and seconds to continue running accurately.

This is housed in a well-proportioned case with clean lines, composed of more than 40 parts with broad bevels on the lugs with hollowed-out sides, presented on a dark green leather strap that complements the dial’s hue.