ReviewAn Essence Of Japan: Seiko Prospex And Presage

Lush cherry blossoms, the national dress, kimono, Muji/Japandi/wabi-sabi minimalistic design concepts, steaming cuppa sencha (infused tea), coarse raw silk, zen Buddhism… Japanese watch giant Seiko embodies these glimpses of the Orient into eight new timepieces to commemorate turning 140 years old, and the ability to hold out on their own in the largely Swiss dominated watch industry. Three new Prospex watches reimagine Japan’s first diving watch the iconic Seiko Prospex 1965, while five new entrants form the Classic series under the Presage line, reflective of the craft traditions and superior craftsmanship in Japan.

Seiko Prospex: Reimagining The First Dive Watch Of Japan

Seiko’s latest Prospex trio has evolved from a storied past filled with unprecedented technical details in watchmaking. The original legendary 1965 watch was lapped up for its precision and affordability by mechanical divers and even used by the Japanese Antarctic Research Expedition (1966-69) for being equipped with an automatic mechanical calibre and 150m water resistance. On the model’s 55th anniversary in 2020, the brand reissued three 1965-inspired versions dubbed as 62MAS. Two more iterations were reissued after the historical 62MAS at the 2017 Baselworld that provide upto 200m water resistance.

The 2024 Prospex watches feature dials in soothing hues of taupe, charcoal, and washed salmon; replicating the shades of organic dyes used in Japanese craftmaking during the Edo period that witnessed immense progress in arts and culture under the ruling Tokugawa family. Note: the charcoal version featuring the special gold-coloured accents commemorates the 100th anniversary of Seiko launching its first wristwatch in 1924. Below the coaxial where the hands unite, the dial features the ‘Automatic 3 Days’ and ‘Diver’s 300m’ tickers announce that these Prospex watches offer a high 72-hour power reserve and an increased water resistance from 200m to 300m—unprecedented for Seiko diving timepieces. Responsible for these feats is the robust in-house calibre 6R55, used of the first time in Prospex watches. Like all Seiko movements, the 6R55 is inbuilt with ‘dia-shock’ technology that makes the watch shock-resistant. Breaking the conventional design norm, the date window is moved from three o’clock to 4:30 (between four and five o’clock). The LumiBrite-coated indexes, hands and bezel evoke the desired vintage appeal.

The LumiBrite-coated indexes, hands and bezel of the 2024 Prospex trio evoke the desired vintage appeal

Moving to the case, the 40mm case of the new Prospexes is 13mm thick, with the size reduced by 0.2 to 0.3mm, and topped by a slimmer fluted bezel to keep the watch lightweight for a better fit. This stainless steel bezel features an aluminium insert, plus a laser-engraved 60-minute scale and Arabic numerals for five-minute markers. Deserving a special mention is the alternative textile strap accompanying the integrated steel bracelet, which is fashioned from recycled plastic bottles styled in Seichu—the traditional Japanese braiding technique. The strap’s subtle lustre and texture is identical to a pattern created by the obijime cord used to secure the waist sash that holds the kimono in place. This ensures the strap is a comfortable, flexible fit, four times sturdier than regular fabric straps.

Raw Silk And Edo Hues Of The New Presage: An Ode To Japan

The five new Presage timepieces are a departure from the Prospex and an evolution of the Seiko 5. Their combination of pastel dial with stainless steel bodies will remind of the sporty-chic steel watches from the 1970s. These sport two different dial configurations. Three watches are date-and-time only versions, with textured dials replicating traditional Japanese raw silk, and run on calibre 6R55. The remaining two are ‘open-heart’ variants featuring a texture of raw silk yarn in a radial pattern and a 24-hour scale. These dials have dual sub-dials—one circular aperture at nine o’clock that reveals the ticking calibre 6R5J underneath and a recessed small seconds’ counter at six o’clock. An exhibition caseback ensures an unobstructed view of the gold-coated oscillating weights.

All five dials feature traditional Japanese tones used prominently during the Edo Period. There are two dials in shiro-iro, a yellowish hue; and the colour of unbleached natural fabric—sensaicha; a dark brownish green; called araigaki; a washed and bleached persimmon colour; and sumi-iro in greyish black typifies the original hue of Japanese monks’ clothing.

The Presage araigaki dial sports a washed and bleached persimmon colour

The Presage sumi-iro dial in greyish black hue typifies the original hue of Japanese monks’ clothing

In comparison to the Prospex models, the indexes and hands are tall and slim, not lume-applied, and their tips bent to match the dial’s rounded edge. A double-curved glass seals the dial. The new Presages come attached to steel multi-row bracelets that are curved and rounded, with fewer contact points, an ergonomic design which provides increased flexibility on the wrist.

The new Presages come attached to steel multi-row bracelets that are curved and rounded, with fewer contact points, an ergonomic design which provides increased flexibility on the wrist.