Round-UpA Beautiful Mess: Top Five Complicated Bovet Timepieces

A Bovet watch is that deadly combination of beauty and brains. Not only are most top-rung Bovet watches grand-complication pieces but unravelling the ostentatious artisanal techniques such as hand-engraving, miniature painting, enamel work and 3D modelling, used to support the numerous complications, will keep you occupied minutes longer any other timepiece you set your eyes on. Here are our picks of five of the most complicated Bovet watches that have the horological world swooning.

Bovet Fleurier Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two

The eye-catching feature of the Bovet Virtuoso VIII model from the Fleurier line is the two sub-dials in aventurine glass. The placement of the sub-dials with their backgrounds appear like the collision of two galaxies or almost like a Venn diagram as depicted in the earlier 19Thirty series. The sub-dial posited at 10 o’clock reveals the 10-day power reserve—in Arabic lettering—with a single barrel, while the sub-dial at two o’clock reveals a big date aperture. Completing the trinity is a flying tourbillion cage at six o’clock that has a titanium bridge to reduce its weight and simultaneously increase its anti-magnetic properties. The chamfered and polished steel plates gracing the rest of the dial reveal côtes de Genève decoration that lends mystery to the overall look. Housed inside the 44mm case, made from 18-karat red gold, is the in-house manual-winding calibre 17BM06-GD that powers this watch. On  an endnote, this is the first Fleurier model that showcases an inclined glass on the 12-to-six axis.

The placement of the sub-dials with their backgrounds appear like the collision of two galaxies or like a Venn diagram as depicted in the earlier 19Thirty series

₹2,24,80,000

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Completing the trinity is a flying tourbillion at six o’clock revealing small seconds that has a titanium bridge to reduce its weight and simultaneously increase its anti-magnetism properties

₹2,24,80,000

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This is the first Fleurier model that showcases an inclined glass aperture on the 12-to-six axis

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Bovet Dimier Récital 21

Before moving onto the array of complications defining the Bovet Récital 21, take a moment to relish the presence of what appears to be sort of an oath in French featured along the rounded edge of the dial: Faictes de mains de maistres—pour servir ponctuels gentilshommes—ce par quoy attestons longue valeur (Masterfully handcrafted—to serve punctual gentlemen—whereby we certify lasting value). This whimsical quote, however, sets the tone of this Bovet model. It is said that the centre dial—showcasing the hour and minute display with Roman numerals as hour markers—is circular brushed and lacquered eight times to generate the desired kind of depth and sheen. Running along the periphery of this dial is a distinct perpetual calendar. And around it—basically the rest of the dial, is decorated in circular Geneva stripes. A peculiar sub-dial, indicting seconds and the five-day power reserve, attaches itself to the main dial around nine o’clock. Day, date and month apertures are positioned at 12, three and six o’clock. The open-worked caseback is secured by six screws and offers a good view of the in-house movement.

Bovet Dimier

₹1,02,00,000

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Bovet Fleurier Virtuoso VII

The cynosure of the Virtuoso VII is its retrograde perpetual calendar that forms a thick ring around the central hour and minute display on the front face. And the brand makes sure to imprint this fact in public memory by carrying the words ‘Perpetual Calendar’ on two sections at the top of the decorative dial. Like the front face, the bright turquoise blue dial posited off-centre at the back, carries a distinct circular brushed pattern. Inbuilt with the legendary patented Amadeo feature, the 18-karat red gold timepiece can be transformed from a wristwatch into a pocket watch and table clock, without the assistance of any tools. To encourage this business of shapeshifting, the watch comes with a full-skin alligator leather strap and gold-plated silver chain. Visible from the caseback is the in-house single-barrel hand-wound movement that promises five days of power reserve and beats at 21,600vph.

The cynosure of the Virtuoso VII is its retrograde perpetual calendar that forms a thick ring around the central hour and minute display on the front face

Visible from the caseback is the in-house single-barrel hand-wound movement that promises five days of power reserve and beats at 21,600vph

Bovet Fleurier

₹86,30,000

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Bovet Fleurier Virtuoso V

This 43.5mm Bovet model gives you a clue about the magic to expect from it by putting ‘Virtuoso’, which means highly skilled, in its title. Fulfilling your every horological dream (of owning all kinds of timepieces), the model can literally bend over backwards and shapeshift from a wristwatch to a pocket watch and a table clock. Inbuilt with the patented Amadéo system, the model displays two dials with separate hours and minutes. This means a secondary time zone to stay abreast of local time in another country across the globe, without having to check the world-timer on your smartphone. Further complicating the dial are two noted complications: jumping hours and retrograde minutes.

Bovet Fleurier

₹85,70,000

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Bovet Dimier Récital 27

The 46.30mm Bovet Récital 27 from the Dimier collection comes grade-5 titanium and 18-karat pink gold versions, all of which feature the quintessential ‘inclined writing slope’ case. Their dials are a symphony of silver-hued surfaces against the blue guilloche surfaces for timekeeping and world-timer indications. The two-hand watch displays the home time at the centre between two sub-dials at three and nine o’clock showcasing a second and third time zone. One can adjust the time zones by choosing from the 24 names of world cities arranged in a semi-circular pattern, looping through the brand logo at 12 o’clock. Two correctors, located on either side of the case—the right side corrector is integrated with the cabochon crown—for the corresponding sub-dial, serve this purpose. Additionally, a day-night display forms the backdrop for each time zone, and the details are coated in lume for dramatic effect.

The 46.30mm Bovet Recital 27 from the Dimier collection comes Grade 5 titanium and 18-karat pink gold versions, all which feature the quintessential ‘inclined writing slope’ case

₹96,60,000

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One can adjust the three time zones by choosing from the 24 names of world cities arranged in a semi-circular pattern, looping through the brand logo at 12 o’clock

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Two correctors, located on either side of the case for the corresponding sub-dial, serve the purpose of setting the right time zone

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