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Watch GlossaryMother-Of-Pearl

Mother-of-pearl is the iridescent inner shell of molluscs and oysters used for watch dials much valued for its luminous look and play of colour and light

The Watch Guide January 4, 2024

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What Is A Mother of Pearl Watch Dial?

Mother-of-pearl, known as nacre—an original 14th-century French term—is secreted by oysters and freshwater pearl mollusks to form an iridescent, outer coating of its inner-shell. Buttery smooth with rainbow glisten, no two nacre patches are alike because the colour changes depending how light falls on it when viewed from different angles. For instance, it could look green from one angle, and turquoise from another. This au naturel material is quite brittle, but highly valued in the jewellery sector for its dainty allure exuded when paired with gold and diamonds. As a material, the mother-of-pearl was stereotyped for feminine watch dials, till recently when brands have broken the rule and are using it in watches showcasing moon phase displays, retrograde calendars and even tourbillons.

Mother-of-pearl is wafer-thin and brittle, and only skilled watchmakers are equipped to use the extreme care required when shaping the material. If properly made and assembled, mother-of-pearl dials can last long and retain their lustre. The entire manufacturing process involving a mother-of-pearl dial can take between four and six weeks. This process starts with finding the right shell. Mother-of-pearl is procured from different molluscs; the highest quality being the Pinctada family of largest and rarest pearl oysters. The shells are pounded, made into 0.2mm-0.5mm thin sheets, cut into circular blanks according to the desired dial measurement and then applied to the dial. It is finished with either engraving or patterning. They can be coloured, both back and front, with a variety of lacquers and paints. The dials are further enhanced using painting, varnishing, and lacquering. The end result: a luminous dial that is always intriguing to look. Finally, the mother-of-pearl disk is usually mounted onto a rigid metal back.

Examples Of Mother-of-pearl Watches

Frederique Constant Classics Slimline Ladies Moon Phase blue mother-of-pearl dial diamond indexes — The Frederique Constant Classics Slimline Ladies Moon phase looks unique for its dark blue mother-of-pearl watch dial that lends added prominence to the contrasting diamond studded indexes, hands, moon phase sub-dial and brand logo

Bulgari Divas Dream Peacock Mother-of-Pearl Marquetry diamond indexes diamond bezel — The Bulgari Divas’ Dream Peacock Mother-of-pearl Marquetry has a dial with mother-of-pearl cutouts inlaid in the gold-bordered recesses of the fan-shaped tail and the upper part of the dial composed of engraved rays

Raymond Weil Parsifal mother-of-pearl dial diamond indexes date aperture steel bracelet — Despite its patterned surface resembling tiny puffy clouds, the mother-of-pearl dial on the steel Raymond Weil Parsifal watch lets your eye travel smoothly over the Roman numerals and stud indexes, date window, and the eight diamond studded brackets on the gadroon bezel

Louis Moinet Moon 316L Stainless Steel Limited Edition Super Moon Mother-of-pearl small seconds sub-dial — This Louis Moinet Moon 316L Stainless Steel Limited Edition dubbed the ‘Super Moon watch’ from the Cosmic Art impresses for its busy mother-of-pearl dial with bold long indexes, a small seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock, plus the piece de resistance—a rare lunar meteorite situated at three o’clock

Luminox Pacific Diver Ripple mother-of-pearl Luminox Light Technology LLT genuine rubber strap — Despite falling into the realm of high activity watches—not your usual category for mother-of-pearl dials—this Luminox Pacific Diver Ripple collection watches perfectly integrates the gleaming dial with date aperture, black indexes applied Luminox Light Technology (LLT), unidirectional rotating bezel and genuine rubber strap

Bulgari Dial Frederique Constant Classics Louis Moinet Luminox Luxury Watches Mother Of Pearl nacre Raymond Weil watch glossary Watches for Men Watches for Women