ReviewIn-Depth Review Of The Oris Aviation Big Crown ProPilot- The World’s First “Automatic” Watch With A Mechanical Altimeter
Symbolising Oris' deep-rooted passion for manufacturing accurate, reliable and industrially manufactured pilot watches at an affordable price point.
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It is a no-brainer that Oris is successful in the big, sporty, robust timepieces segment that also falls in the highly wearable category. After the launch of the Oris Aquis Depth Gauge that took the world of diving watches by storm, the independently run brand is looking to conquer the skies as it did the seas. The most recent addition to their Aviation collection is the very innovative Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter. While the Bivouac from Favre-Leuba was the first “mechanical” wristwatch with an aneroid altimeter, the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is, in fact, the world’s first automatic mechanical watch with a mechanical altimeter.
Bringing over 110 years of watchmaking history to the forefront, Oris has set a precedence in the world of aviation with this first-of-its-kind pilot watch – the Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter.
An introduction to the watch: A tool watch at heart
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is an innovative piece of horology that draws inspiration from the world of aviation. From the bezel resembling the turbines of a jet engine, to featuring one of the 6 most fundamental cockpit instruments that a pilot needs and uses, the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is at heart a tool watch. It is a watch with a high-performance ratio that is available at an affordable and sensible price point.
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter was pioneered by Oris and manufactured in the brand’s Hölstein factory. This comes as an impressive achievement from the family-run brand but not a surprising one (considering the excellent watches developed by Oris till date).
The Dial & Crown- Inspired by the world of aviation:
The dial of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter takes design cues from the ProPliot family. With high legibility being the main focus, the watch succeeds to perfectly combine the essence of a luxury watch with the practicality of a tool watch. At first instance, the dial of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter might seem a little overwhelming with too much going on. However, all it takes is a little understanding of what each section of the dial represents.
Firstly, the dial of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is split into three zones representing timekeeping, atmospheric pressure and altitude indicator. The central or inner part of the dial represents the main dial that displays the hour, minutes and seconds of the day. Encircling the inner dial is a recessed channel (which closely resembles a moat) that houses two indicators in red and yellow.
The red indicator marks the air pressure represented on the channel positioned between the inner dial and the inner bezel. On the other hand, the yellow indicator marks the current altitude (up to 14,500 feet) that’s represented on the outer flange or inner bezel of the dial.
Also keeping in tune with the overall aviation theme of the watch, the knurling around the bezel is reminiscent of jet turbines. The same detailing also matches the design of the two crowns placed on the side of the case. The Oris engraved crown located at 2 o’clock is used to adjust the time and date of the watch. Once unscrewed, the second and third positions adjust the date and time respectively. The second “Big” crown situated at the 4 o’clock position is used to operate the altimeter (more on that later). Labelled aptly with a red lacquered “ALT SET” engraving, the “Big” crown definitely personifies the function it performs.
Workings of the watch:
Now that we’ve identified the different parts of the dial, it is time to understand how the watch actually works. The dial houses an aneroid altimeter – a recessed concentric circle that surrounds the raised (or floating) inner dial. The altimeter mechanism is an airtight box that is filled with thinned air that inflates or deflates when the atmospheric pressure fluctuates. This fluctuation determines the reading indicated on the altimeter scale.
How the watch functions?
The altimeter and timekeeping functions are controlled by the “Big” crown at 4 o’clock and normal crown at 2 o’clock, respectively. The crown at 2 o’clock adjusts the time and date like any conventional crown works, while the “Big” crown at 4 o’ clock operates the altimeter. When completely screwed down at Position O, the watch has a water-resistance of up to 100m and the altimeter is inactive. To activate the altimeter, the crown at 4 o’clock needs to be unscrewed and taken to Position 1, which is when the red ring becomes visible – a sign that you are now trading the water resistance for the altimeter function. However, even at this position, to prevent the entry of any surrounding moisture into the altimeter mechanism, the crown is covered with a PTFE vapour barrier.
To measure the atmospheric pressure vis-a-vis the altitude, the crown needs to be further pulled to Position 2. This allows air to enter the altimeter mechanism which calculates the atmospheric pressure and hence gives us the accurate readings. Once the altitude and atmospheric pressure are determined/calculated, the crown can be screwed down to Position O. This ensures that the case of the watch is re-sealed and the water resistance of the timepiece is back to 100 meters.
Additionally, the floating island dial is black with highly legible white hour and minute hands that are treated with SuperLuminova. The white Arabic numerals further enhance the legibility quotient by contrasting well with the black dial. The immaculately designed date aperture at 3 o’clock is set without disturbing the balance of the dial. The seconds hand is black with a red tip, again, a well thought out detail to minimize distractions. Oris has obviously done a great job in creating a balance between the timekeeping and the measurement functions.
The Case: 47mm stainless steel with an aviation inspired bezel and a screwed down case back
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is fitted with a 47mm wide stainless steel case with a mostly brushed finish. Sitting large on the wrist with a case thickness of 18mm (due to the altimeter inside), the Oris Big Crown ProPilot is definitely not meant for the slim wrist. Given the fact that the case houses an automatic mechanical movement and a mechanical barometer too, the geometry of the case is a feature one could compromise on. To be honest, the unforgivable case size further proves the timepiece to be a true tool watch. It rightly aims at getting the job done rather than pretending to satisfy any real function.
The reverse of the watch is a solid, screwed in stainless steel case back that features a specially engraved circular scale that converts meters into feet. The absence of a see-through case back which would allow the wearer to catch a glimpse of the famed red rotor is sadly, understandable. Incorporating an exhibition case back would add an additional few millimetres to an already large case, making it too big for practical purposes.
The watch is powered by Caliber 733 based on the Sellita SW200 movement. It offers a three-hand (hour, minute and seconds) function with date display and clocks in a power reserve of 38 hours. A fairly simple and robust movement, the Cailber 733 works beautifully in terms of its size. The appropriate thickness of the movement works in accordance with the presence of the aneroid barometer resulting in a case size that is practically acceptable.
Who is it for?
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is no doubt a high-performance instrument or tool watch that specially adheres to the needs of a pilot. However, irrespective of its aviation-centric features, the timepiece is ready for more practical applications by the average watch buyer too. From mountaineers, hikers, and explorers to research scientists, the watch is a useful tool for any lover of high altitude activities and adventure. The watch aids in providing the wearer with an accurate reading of the progress of his/her ascent to the summit or any given location. Additionally, since it works on “human power”, there is no pressure of the battery running out no matter where you are.
Price and Availability:
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is available in three textile strap options: green (our personal favourite), grey and black, along with a stainless steel bracelet variation. All variations feature a brushed stainless steel folding clasp.
Oris has always aimed to build timepieces that are good quality and offer useful functions. And bringing home this philosophy, the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is a definite tool-watch appropriately priced at Rs 240,000.
Verdict:
While the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is definitely a watch dedicated to pilots and their needs, it also proves to be a worthy timepiece for serious mountain climbers, adventurers and explorers too. The watch also aides avid watch enthusiasts in continuing their passion for discovering and experiencing innovative features and complications, without burning a hole in their pocket.
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is available at Ethos Watch Boutiques.
(Image Courtesy: ablogtowatch, Hodinkee & dicta)
How did you find this unique complication on the watch? Is it worth your time and money? Let us know in the comments section below!