ReviewOris’s Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 400: The Essential Addition And A True Crowd-Pleaser

At Oris, the pillar of aviation watches has been distinctly segregated into the more traditional pilot’s watches—the Big Crown Pointer Date and mainline ProPilot timepieces—and the newer, edgier interpretation, which is the ProPilot X. While not completely separate from the mainline ProPilot, the ProPilot X—as the two share a few commonalities—the latter definitely has a more modern appeal. Aspects such as the fuller case structure, the almost integrated bracelet, and the more pronounced knurling of the bezel are instant identifiers. Of course, this watch also has the ‘big crown’, which is an essential element of pilot’s watches and hence the name of the collection as a whole. However, it does not have the other key element of aviation timepieces—large, Arabic numerals for the hour markers. Instead, the hour markers are sleek indexes, which are a trait of the latest ProPilot X Calibre 400, launched by the brand at this year’s Watches and Wonders Geneva. While the in-house automatic calibre makes its debut in the ProPilot line with these new watches, the ProPilot X itself isn’t a new line.

The ProPilot X Goes Its Own Way

It was in 2019, when Oris unveiled the first ProPilot X, which was a skeletonised watch, boasting a very detailed open-worked display, with hour indexes surrounding it. The first major release in the skeleton category, that watch was an instant hit, and did very well for the brand. The edgier case structure and the fluting on the bezel, taking forward the ProPilot line’s signature feature inspired by jet engine turbines, really spoke to a lot of enthusiasts, and it was just the kind of facelift that the ProPilot series needed. Most noteworthy though was the display itself. It was a new in-house movement for Oris at the time—their manual-winding calibre 115. With exposed components crafted to perfection, the movement became a part of the display. And it was a proud achievement for Oris, as it was the latest in their first series of in-house movements in their modern history, which goes back to 2014, when they launched the calibre 110, marking 110 years of the brand. Subsequently, each year, they added to that 110 series of the movements—each one delivering something new—culminating with the 115 in 2019.

The salmon pink execution is probably a complete standout, since the hue is not usually seen in such edgy sport watches, and it’s very different as compared with the grey and blue dials

₹4,30,000

Check Our Selling Price

The dial details are seen in black on the variant that comes with a plain grey dial, which presents sheer monochromatic perfection

₹4,30,000

Check Our Selling Price

All variants have such a sublime, soothing quality that you just can’t ignore them, even if you’re more inclined to choose neutral tones. This blue one should have many takers

₹4,30,000

Check Our Selling Price

The sleek narrow hour indexes and hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova

01

The ProPilot X Lives Up To A New Standard

In 2020, however, Oris moved away from the 110 series of movements, and released what they’d been working on for a while—their ‘new standard’. This was their advanced calibre 400—an in-house automatic, which boasted enhanced anti-magnetism, a power reserve of five full days, and came with a warranty of 10 years, which also meant that the intervals between servicing could be 10 years long. At the time, it was introduced in the brand’s signature dive watch, the Aquis Date. However, the presence of the 400, and other movements from the new 400 series that emerged, grew within Oris’s portfolio, as they continued to live up to the ‘new standard’. The 401 offered the same advanced features and had a small seconds display. This was seen with the 403 as well, along with an analogue date display. It came in the new Pointer Date, which also brought the Big Crown collection into the fold of the 400 series.

The in-house automatic calibre 400 comes with enhanced anti-magnetism, a power reserve of five full days, and a 10-year warranty and recommended servicing interval

Offering a view of the advanced movement is the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback. The slinky titanium bracelet comes with a patented ‘lift’ system

Yet, what was missing from the Big Crown collection was a simple three-hand time-and-date edition that offered the advancements of the 400 series. So it was only a natural step to release a calibre 400 Big Crown. And why not take forward the newer, edgier ProPilot X template with the cutting-edge time-and-date calibre! In that sense, this new Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 400 is almost an essential addition to Oris’s portfolio.

The ProPilot X: A Crowd-Pleaser In Titanium

Like the skeleton ProPilot X of 2019, this new 2022 ProPilot X is also constructed from titanium—keeping it light in weight, yet very durable. The finishing includes satin and sandblasted surfaces. The design is very striking, quite like the skeleton version. But somehow, it’s more appealing in certain ways. It’s definitely more versatile, with a very clean appearance, and a clear and minimalistic display. With all the elements printed rather than applied, there’s added modernity, even as the visual depth is not compromised on—enhanced by the domed sapphire crystal glass—nor is the legibility. The sleek narrow hour indexes and hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova, while the date can be seen clearly at six o’clock.

The ProPilot X’s Winning Hues

All these details are seen in black on the variant that comes with a plain grey dial, which presents sheer monochromatic perfection. It’s the greatest crowd-pleaser of this line, without a doubt. Yet, the other two variants that Oris have released have such a sublime, soothing quality that you just can’t ignore them, even if you’re more inclined to choose neutral tones. The blue and salmon pink dials come with white details instead of black, and these hues just complement the grey of the titanium beautifully. In fact, the salmon pink execution is probably a complete standout, since the hue is not usually seen in such edgy sport watches, and it’s very different as compared with the grey and blue dials.

What makes these watches even more attractive is the size. At 39mm, Oris haven’t gone wrong at all, since it’s a size suitable for practically anyone

Very practical, easy to wear, very easy on the eyes, and high-performing in nature, the ProPilot X Calibre 400 is a brilliant new addition to the Big Crown collection

What makes these watches even more attractive is the size. At 39mm, Oris haven’t gone wrong at all, since it’s a size suitable for practically anyone, while the 2019 skeleton edition was a much larger 44mm. This watch also comes with a view of the movement though, since the 100m-water-resistant case has a sapphire crystal caseback that showcases the terrific movement. Completing the look is the slinky titanium bracelet, with a patented ‘lift’ system. Very practical, easy to wear, very easy on the eyes, and high-performing in nature, the ProPilot X Calibre 400 is a brilliant new addition to the Big Crown collection—one that was definitely needed in Oris’s aviation pillar. We can definitely see this one emerging as a bestseller.