Q&APanerai’s Product Director Talks About The Changing World And Sustainability

Panerai has been making some serious strides in material innovation lately, particularly in the last couple of years. Has this been a conscious focus area, or is it simply organic evolution?

Panerai is a pioneering watch brand and innovation in terms of materials is fundamental. Panerai is a brand that strives for continuous evolution and devotes a lot of the present to the future. The leading factor when we do our research is always to identify materials that are disruptive in the watch industry. Besides Panerai wants to bring added value to the customer, especially in terms of lightness, performance, or the hardness of the material, scratch resistance, and so on. It is our consistent endeavour to inject creativity and innovation to our offerings—including products, partnerships and services—to keep our loyalists excited, but while doing so, we are mindful of keeping our icon where it is.

“Panerai wants to bring added value to the customer, especially in terms of lightness, performance, or the hardness of the material, scratch resistance, and so on,” states Ficarelli, and cites the new Luminor Fibratech as an example. “Fibratech™ [is] a new, futuristic material is 60 percent lighter than steel, resilient and highly resistant to corrosion.”

Explain how you interpret the brand’s motto, ‘Laboratorio di idee’.

Since its debut in the international market, Panerai has adopted the expression ‘Laboratorio di idee’ to indicate its commitment towards the continuous search for innovative technical solutions that will raise the standards and performance of its watches even higher. The word ‘laboratorio’, which is of Latin origin, evokes the resourcefulness of the Panerai family—natives of Florence who not only founded the first watch workshop in the city in 1860, but who also transformed a family activity into a forward-looking company capable of creating innovations and revolutionary products that have become classics in the history of watchmaking. ‘Laboratorio di idee’ is, above all, embodied in the research and development department, where all the technical projects are created and perfected by the hands of skilled watchmakers and engineers, who instil the craftsmanship and perfection of form demanded by the highest standards in the field. These highly specialised workers operate very closely with the design department, which is based in Italy, where they draw inspiration from the historic archives of the brand, thus ensuring that every new creation is consistent with the unmistakable Panerai DNA.

Even as Panerai develops new materials that are products of extensive research and development, in keeping with their motto ‘Laboratorio di idee’, the design department—based in Italy—ensures that each product is consistent with the brand's DNA. This is best exemplified by this classic bestselling Luminor (the PAM01312)

Which recent products from Panerai are you most proud of?

Every creation of Panerai has been acclaimed for its innovation in complications, technicalities and materials, and designs with a perfect blend of Italian design and Swiss watchmaking expertise. The ethos of the brand is so profound that it gives us immense pleasure and pride to be a part of the team. Over the years, Panerai has witnessed so many milestones—from introducing eco-friendly materials to innovative complications, designs and significant collaborations, we have had an incredible journey.

The limited edition Mike Horn Submersibles, earlier in EcoTitanium™ in 2019 and now in EcoPangaea™ are Panerai’s consciousness to the environment. These sophisticated and authentic environmentally-sensitive watches have been remarkable creations. In 2020, Panerai turns the spotlight on the most significant year by celebrating a true icon, the Luminor, with new and innovative upgrades. I am really excited for the new Luminor Marina timepieces, especially the Luminor Marina Fibratech™—44 (PAM01119) and Luminor Marina Carbotech™—44mm (PAM1118). Both are special editions, available exclusively in Panerai boutiques throughout the world and produced in a limited edition of 270 units each, guaranteed for 70 years, it experiments a new expressive language through an extensive use of Super-LumiNova, bringing the fusion of tradition and advanced research—benchmarks that form the basis of Panerai’s cultural and historical heritage.

“A notable [sustainability] milestone has been the Mike Horn Editions, where [this 2019] timepieces was made of EcoTitanium™—a material first introduced into the world of high-quality watchmaking by Panerai, obtained not from the exploitation of natural resources but from recycled titanium sourced from old aircraft.”

Could you explain how you approach the development of a product?

We start off by keeping the connection to our roots and DNA, always looking for new ways to leverage our legendary design. At the same time, we explore technologies coming from other industries in order to evaluate the potential and create new interesting synergies.

In assembling Panerai watches, absolute precision and a high degree of specialisation are required. The extreme example of this is to be found in the atelier haute horlogerie—the department of the manufacture where the most highly skilled master watchmakers bring the most sophisticated, prestigious in-house calibres to life. The stage of assembling and adjusting the movements is fundamentally important in ensuring the maximum accuracy of the watch. It is performed by hand and, in the case of the more complicated calibres, it requires remarkable skill.

Talk about working with sustainable materials.

Sustainability and environmentalism aren’t limited to new products. Rather, they involve the whole organisation at Panerai. Panerai has been making conscious moves to incorporate recycled components. For instance, a notable milestone has been the Mike Horn Editions, where the earlier timepieces were made of EcoTitanium™—a material first introduced into the world of high-quality watchmaking by Panerai, obtained not from the exploitation of natural resources but from recycled titanium sourced from old aircraft. This year, we launched the Submersible EcoPangaea™ Tourbillon GMT, which is made of the new EcoPangaea™ high-tech steel. Composed of recycled metal of a shaft from Mike Horn’s boat, the material has been purified, perfected and finally shaped into an extraordinary Submersible—the first in the collection equipped with a tourbillon. This material is used across the case, the crown protector, the bezel and caseback of the model. Each watch also comes affixed with straps made from recycled PET plastic (the kind commonly used to make single-use plastic water bottles). The packaging for each watch, too, is made of recycled ABS plastic.  Through the integration of recycled and ethical materials into functional timepieces, Panerai is treading an important path in the watchmaking industry. We have a strong record of implementing effective sustainability initiatives and we shall continue to cement ourselves as a green trailblazer.

“This year's Submersible EcoPangaea™ Tourbillon GMT is made of the new EcoPangaea™ high-tech steel. Composed of recycled metal of a shaft from Mike Horn’s boat.”

“This material is used across the case, the crown protector, the bezel and caseback of the model. Each watch also comes affixed with straps made from recycled PET plastic.”

How difficult is it to innovate with the products, considering that the basic design of every Luminor and every Radiomir must remain the same?

The Radiomir and Luminor are recognised for their distinctive shapes and bold dials. However, Panerai today has moved far beyond the original two designs of the Radiomir and the Luminor. Yet, the clear, powerful lines of the originals are still the foundation of all modern watch production. The creative challenge however is that as a major brand, every year we have to introduce interesting and consistent novelties, while being loyal to our original DNA. We have customers who expect us to push innovation and introduce new materials. As a result, all that we did in the past and continue to do today is to try find the right balance between innovation and very strong design. For instance, we came out with the tourbillon in 2007, and the feedback was good. Surprisingly, we continued to sell a good quantity of tourbillons every year, so we decided to develop this range. The minute repeater was a success. We have fans and our super-loyal customers expecting surprising products that can also be highly personalised as well. In last few years, we have been introducing very innovative materials in our watches. It is a mix between big complications, new materials and unique pieces that we are working on now. If we even think about some complication or movement, it always has to be clearly defined as a Panerai watch—something that you can recognise even standing 10m away.

Talk about your favourite 2020 novelty.

In 2020, our vision is to flood the Luminor line with many versions, some in limited editions and some made in high-tech materials as Fibratech™—a new, futuristic material is 60 percent lighter than steel, resilient and highly resistant to corrosion. It is made from natural fibres produced by the fusion of basalt rock. Another example of innovation in materials is the titanium case of Luminor Marina produced by direct metal laser sintering (DMLS), a 3D-printing technology.

“An example of innovation in materials is the titanium case of Luminor Marina produced by direct metal laser sintering (DMLS), a 3D-printing technology,” Ficarelli informs

The process involves titanium powder being sintered by a high-power fibre optic laser, after which it assumes a solid shape

What are the biggest trends you’ve seen in the watch industry in the last five years?

Some noteworthy trends and evolutions in the high-end watchmaking category have been: more colour on dials (green and dials in particular), innovation in materials, and steel bracelets. Vintage styles have made a comeback, there are a number of limited editions or special editions based on collaborations, watches with a strong narrative and so on. The industry underwent several technical developments required by the market, which have led to real revolutions. In an ever-changing industry it is really important to stay true to their own roots and DNA to avoid the risk of brand dilution and keeping high the standards. And finally, most luxury brands have a key focus on sustainability.

What kind of trends do you see people interested in through the COVID crisis? Do you think people will prefer to keep things simple with understated pieces, or will they want audacious products to change the mood?

Luxury consumption is driven by emotions and self-identity. Today, consumers want to spend on luxury products to express themselves rather than to flaunt. We are in an unknown territory for the months to come and this means that we cannot approach things with forecasts. It will belong to all of us to reinvent what the future will look like and in particular our universe as a brand. Luxury is no longer about fitting in, but more a form of self-expression and an extension to one’s personality, and what one stands for. These motivations will never wane. However, the beliefs and values that shape consumer behaviour are undergoing drastic changes. With the outbreak of COVID-19, there has been a paradigm shift in luxury consumer behaviour. During this crisis, even the younger generation have started valuing quality, craftsmanship and design over quantity. There is an increased aspiration for timeless and eternal luxury, and not the usual interest to be a part of a bandwagon. There will be a higher demand of ethical and conscious luxury; conscious consumption will be a key factor among affluent consumers.