ReviewGold-Class Precision: The Parmigiani Kalpagraphe Chronomètre
A Swiss brand that perfectly encapsulates the spirit of haute horlogerie, Parmigiani Fleurier has released yet another horological wonder that’s a sight to behold. Introducing the Parmigiani Kalpagraphe Chronomètre Rose Gold, an integrated chronograph that’s been interestingly skeletonised and dressed in bold rose gold
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Parmigiani Fleurier is a brand that frequently succeeds in creating watches that symbolise the perfect harmony of form and function. And they have released yet another stunner. The Parmigiani Kalpagraphe Chronomètre Rose Gold is a stand-out member of the brand’s Kalpa collection that has managed to capture imaginations through its audacious design language and a surprisingly sporty character.
On The Face Of It
The Parmigiani Kalpagraphe Chronomètre Rose Gold carries the legacy of the Kalpa collection with aplomb, thanks to the same tonneau-shaped case that we see in other Kalpa timepieces, with its delicate, teardrop-style lugs—this time, crafted from 18-karat rose gold. Even though its case measures a hefty 48.2mm by 40.04mm, it fits seamlessly on any man’s wrist. Sporting a thickness of only 14mm, the case is also water resistant to 30m.
Housed inside this spectacular case is a dial, which is sans numerals, that is just as aesthetically pleasing, if not more. Parmigiani has redefined the meaning of a skeletal dial here by giving us an iteration that is understated and tasteful. The black and slate-coloured dial has been laser-cut to perfection, giving us a small peek into its inner workings but keeping most of it an intriguing secret. The design is supposed to be reminiscent of a car radiator grille. Angular cuts give the watch an industrial look that few timepieces are able to muster.
Three chronograph counters—the 30-minute counter at three, the 12-hour counter at nine and the small seconds at six o’clock—manage to give the dial a fine visual balance. The small seconds display is of particular import for its quirky design—the sub-dial has a two-sided hand and the markers cover two rows in one-half of the sub-dial, while the other half has the word ‘Chronomètre’ emblazoned on it. There is also a date window near the 12 o’clock mark displaying only odd numerals. Skeletonised delta-shaped hands complete the look of the dial and, contrary to what one might think, don’t compromise on legibility since they are in the same tone as the case and manage to contrast well against the dark dial.
The Movement Within
Parmigiani displays its watchmaking prowess through a spectacular movement—the self-winding calibre PF362—and it’s truly the star of this timepiece. Here, the ‘first shaped integrated chronograph’ movement, developed entirely in-house over a period of six years, has been designed in such a way that it fits exactly inside the case. Oscillating at 36,000vph (5Hz), the movement promises unsurpassable efficiency and precision. Offering a power reserve of 65 hours, the calibre is made of 332 components and a total of 42 jewels to reduce friction. One can appreciate this intricate movement, complete with its 22-karat rose gold oscillating weight with its barley grain guilloche motif, through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Parmigiani Displays Its Sporty Side
Parmigiani Fleurier is not a brand known for sporty timepieces, and that’s what makes this timepiece incredibly distinctive among Parmigiani’s impressively dressy repertoire. The Kalpagraphe Chronomètre Rose Gold is perfect for the athletic man not only because of the incomparable chronograph movement ticking inside but also the black rubber strap, which is equipped with a rose gold folding clasp—a clear departure from Parmigiani’s usual aesthetic sensibilities.
Ticking In Titanium
The Parmigiani Kalpagraphe Chronomètre Titanium boasts a lightweight grade-5 titanium case. While the rose gold case is for those who like to flaunt their horological treasures, the grey tone of the titanium keeps things subdued and masculine. This extraordinary watch’s overall design scheme is the same as the rose gold variant. However, the calibre beating inside is what sets it apart. While the movement in this edition is also the PF362 tonneau-shaped integrated chronograph calibre, the rotor on this one is in black—complementing the titanium of the case. This splendid timepiece also comes with a black rubber strap, which is equipped with a titanium folding clasp.
In Steel And Blue—The More Mainstream Kalpagraphe
A simpler rendition of the Kalpagraphe—the chronograph series within Parmigiani Fleurier’s Kalpa line—is the one in steel. With a width of 39.5mm, this one is just as imposing in its hefty form, and it presents a silhouette that’s just as recognisable as the gold version. The dial is cleaner though with a plain blue base, and without the fretwork-style geometrical pattern that you see on the grey dial of the rose gold version. However, like the golden and titanium renditions above, this one too has the 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters at three and nine o’clock. The running seconds is also at six, but instead of the double-ended hand, there’s a conventional small seconds hand and a circular track that goes all the way around.
The most significant difference between the models seen above and this steel version though is the movement that beats within. While those higher-end editions had a calibre that was built especially for tonneau-shaped cases, and developed as barrel-shaped movement, the one in this edition is a more conventional round calibre—the PF334, which offers a standard power reserve of 50 hours.