SpotlightOld-World Charm: Presenting The Exquisite Parmigiani L’Armoriale Pocket Watch
A new addition to Parmigiani’s Objets d’Art collection, the L’Armoriale pocket watch is a fine tribute to the founder Michel Parmigiani, and also a celebration of the brand’s mastery in the art of watch restoration
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In the hallowed world of high horology, every brand possesses a certain niche and expertise that defines their watchmaking ethos. While crafting new watches that stand out for distinct features such as design or technology is one aspect; there are brands which go above and beyond to master the entire watchmaking spectrum, and that would include the art of restoration. A highly nuanced area, restoration is an extremely challenging process since it requires the watchmaker to replicate the original work so as to get the timepiece in proper working order. This involves making the dial in the original material, upgrading the movement with modern components, and ensuring that any sort of ‘improvement’ doesn’t change the intrinsic persona of the original model. While we are on the subject of restoration, Parmigiani would be a great example since the brand was built on the bedrock of restoration, way back in 1976, when founder and watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, set up the Mesure et Art du Temps, a traditional workshop devoted to restoring antique timepieces, while also designing and crafting complex creations of his own.
Recently, the brand unveiled the L’Armoriale pocket watch—a horological gem that embodies exceptional craftsmanship and honours Michel Parmigiani’s unwavering commitment to preserving the art of restoration—a fine tribute to mark his birthday. “L’Armoriale is not just a unique pocket watch; it is a masterpiece from the maison Parmigiani Fleurier that carries within it the story, passion, and excellence of a man out of the ordinary. It reminds us that sometimes, watchmaking can transcend time to become a true work of art,” says Parmigiani CEO, Guido Terreni in a press statement.
This pocket watch is also special since it bridges the past and present with a very special movement that lies at the heart and brings it to life. The mechanism dates back to 1890 and is signed A. Golay Leresche & Fils in Geneva—showcasing a chronograph minute repeater. And it was in 1985 when Michel Parmigiani restored this mechanism and upgraded it with a perpetual calendar function. Today, this movement displays a chronograph, a minute repeater, and a perpetual calendar featuring a moon phase set against an aventurine sky and hand-hammered moons in white gold. Here are more details on what makes it truly spectacular.
The L’Armoriale Pocket Watch: A Fine Specimen Of Traditional Artistic Techniques
This exquisite masterpiece is crafted in 18-karat white gold and measures 58.2mm, and one of its distinctive features is its intricate and richly layered colour palette. Each recess on the caseback here is hand-carved and filled with grand feu enamel in varying shades of red, yellow, or brown, and each hue is perfectly balanced, creating an enchanting visual effect. This colourway is depicted on a concentric pattern, which makes for a hypnotic effect as one gazes at it, while also adding a rich texture and visual depth.
The dial, with its rich brown hue and intricate ‘Mezzo Vibrato’ motif engraving, is also quite a sight to behold. It is surrounded by an engraved ring, which elegantly echoes the almond motifs seen on the case and lugs. Even the caseband is meticulously hand-engraved, decorated with chiselled palmettes and polished fluting for added sophistication. This even extends to the dial, which showcases a stylised Florentine motif—executed with utmost precision. The same meticulousness extends to the minute repeater latch, pendant, and crown—all finely engraved.
It is powered by the manual-winding movement, which operates at a frequency of 18,000vph, supplying an energy reserve of at least 30 hours. Apart from the complex functions, this, too, just like the case and exterior is decorated and intricately engraved—a testament of the brand’s expertise in this craft. The L’Armoriale is attached to a magnificent handcrafted chain, also executed in white gold with 35 square and 33 oval links—each carefully designed to ensure maximum flexibility, without compromising on the classical aesthetic and style.