ReviewRetro, Winning Charm: Raymond Weil’s Millesime—A Tribute To Understated Elegance

What made 2023 a landmark year for Raymond Weil was their Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) win in the ‘Challenge Watch’ categort, which was bagged by Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds. The remarkable aspect of this victory is the fact that the brand achieved it with a vintage-inspired timepiece, and notably, it isn’t a reissue of a heritage-inspired line. This underscores the brand’s ability to innovate and create a distinct vintage aesthetic without relying on the re-creation of a specific heritage model. Without too many frills, the stunning and sleek Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds watch kills it with its vintage charm.  Millésime translates to ‘vintage’ in French.

The Understated Glamour Of The Raymond Weil Millesime

The Geneva-based Swiss watchmaking maison have taken a bold and avant-garde approach, winning the admiration of watch connoisseurs with their unique and unmistakable design. The impact of their vintage design codes is so profound in the Millesime line that it might evoke a sense of déjà vu, as if one has encountered this timepiece before. This speaks of the enduring and memorable nature of its design, leaving a lasting impression on those who appreciate the blend of innovation and vintage aesthetics.

While Raymond Weil’s namesake founded the company in 1976, the brand first specialised in accessible luxury watches, mostly powered by quartz movements, yet in recent years, has been making bold strides with a focus on mechanical models. With the Raymond Weil Millesime collection, the brand explain that they want to pay ‘homage to the rich heritage and traditions of horology while celebrating the simplicity of refined design’. This fusion of nostalgic elements and contemporary design reflects the brand’s ability to blend heritage with innovation.

The salmon dial, located beneath a vintage-inspired sapphire crystal glass-box, has been refined to the highest degree in the Raymond Weil Millesime, with a grey strap on its 39.5mm case

Their ability to naturally embrace the past, and introduce new timepieces that seamlessly blend period charm with present-day practicality has birthed two horological variations, namely references 2925 and 2930 in the Millesime collection united by sector dials. One model showcases a central seconds display, while the award-winning model presents a small seconds indicator at six o’clock. Both variations are housed in a slender stainless steel case, measuring 39.5mm in diameter, and boast a gracefully thin profile, and dials in various finishes. This combination of historic allure and contemporary functionality reflects the brand’s commitment to delivering timepieces that resonate with both aesthetics and practicality.

Composed of five references—three central-seconds models in salmon, blue or silver (the latter with a gold PVD-coated case) and two small seconds watches—the Raymond Weil Millesime collection is a classic example of vintage design meeting modern features. With no reference to history, these watches created from scratch are a testament to the brand’s creative pursuits.

The Millesime Dials And Designs

Now let’s talk about the award-winning timepiece. The Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds in silver or anthracite version is rooted in vintage codes and enriched with a tasteful selection of details akin to the central seconds versions. Both the versions feature a slender stainless steel Millesime sector dial in 39.5mm—an obvious nod to vintage watches. It is a classic well-balanced line that captivates with the sector dial—the primary appeal of the Millesime collection.

The dial features three textures: a brushed centre, a smooth hour track, and a snailed (ie grooved) outer minute track. While achieving a balanced and readable dial may seem simple in concept and execution, but it becomes a noteworthy accomplishment when incorporating a variety of shapes and textures that seem to be placed in a harmonious symmetry. The small seconds at six o’clock contributes to this balance seamlessly, offering a smooth integration. The new old design stands out with the concentric circles inside the round, stainless steel case that is accentuated by the short lugs. This is also because the bezel is brushed, with a polished bevel, and the rest of the case and lugs are polished. The juxtaposition of finishes reinforces the overall level of finishing and clean lines—a characteristic that distinguishes the Millesime collection to be a worthy winner.

The immaculately designed watch, paired with a colour-coordinating genuine calf leather strap, is a great vintage-inspired watch with  a modern twist. The Millesime 2930 version is powered by the mechanical self-winding movement, RW4251, while the Millesime 2925 version is powered by the mechanical self-winding movement RW4200. Both of them offer a 38-hour power reserve visible through a sapphire crystal caseback.

Mechanics That Power The Millesime Collection

In both the horological variations referenced 2925 and 2930, the sapphire crystal caseback affords sight of the self-winding movement within and the ‘W’-shaped oscillating weight, Raymond Weil’s horological signature. Offered in a selection of dial colours, each model is paired with a genuine calf leather strap with a unique W-stitched detail, in complementing hues. Box-shaped sapphire crystal shields the vintage aesthetics of the sector dial to enhance readability while the hour and minute hands are filled with Super-LumiNova.

With great attention to detail, the Raymond Weil Millesime collection unlocks its exceptional watchmaking prowess while underscoring the brand’s expertise, skill, and precision.